Hello Everybody,
First post.
I camp a lot in tents but after spending three days straight in a tent in the rain at Dolly Sods I swore I'd make a change.
Here it is.
Bought it Wednesday.
Drove it home today.
1999 Ford E-250, 6 cylinder, 125K miles.
Was a home builders work van. Some slight surface rust.
Cargo doors a bit dinged up.
I'm planning on doing a full conversion. Most of the work I'll do myself but some will be beyond my abilities. I'm giving myself a deadline of no later than spring. Van won't fit into my small garage so that will affect how/when I can work on it.
I've been reading this and other conversion forums for a few weeks. It's been a huge help so far. Learned quite a lot already but there's still a lot I don't know. Counting on the pros who frequent this forum for some advice.
Advice like: The previous owner drilled some 3/4 inch holes in the floor for bolted down shelving. Whats the best way to cover these holes from underneath? Should I treat the metal edges of the holes before I start?
Thanks for your time, now and in the future.
WVvan
P.S. I'm thinking of call it "HAL the Van".
Why HAL? Well since my name is Dave....
Dave Bowman: Open the pod bay doors, HAL.
HAL: I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.
First post.
I camp a lot in tents but after spending three days straight in a tent in the rain at Dolly Sods I swore I'd make a change.
Here it is.
Bought it Wednesday.
Drove it home today.
1999 Ford E-250, 6 cylinder, 125K miles.
Was a home builders work van. Some slight surface rust.
Cargo doors a bit dinged up.
I'm planning on doing a full conversion. Most of the work I'll do myself but some will be beyond my abilities. I'm giving myself a deadline of no later than spring. Van won't fit into my small garage so that will affect how/when I can work on it.
I've been reading this and other conversion forums for a few weeks. It's been a huge help so far. Learned quite a lot already but there's still a lot I don't know. Counting on the pros who frequent this forum for some advice.
Advice like: The previous owner drilled some 3/4 inch holes in the floor for bolted down shelving. Whats the best way to cover these holes from underneath? Should I treat the metal edges of the holes before I start?
Thanks for your time, now and in the future.
WVvan
P.S. I'm thinking of call it "HAL the Van".
Why HAL? Well since my name is Dave....
Dave Bowman: Open the pod bay doors, HAL.
HAL: I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.
Thanks for the advice Liketoroam but I'll stick with what my Dad told me.
Fuel tank installation continued:
I now have some practice with threading holes into thin aluminum but before starting on the tank I'll have to figure out how to place the cover plate for the fuel sending unit. Here is the sending unit. Notice the round plastic float attached to the brass rod.
That float extends off to the side of the sending unit. Looking at this diagram of the fuel tank.
The platform for the sending unit is at the right end of the tank so I have to be sure to install the sending unit so the float extends to the left.
This sending unit is made to be used in tanks with a diameter of from 6 to 23 inches. It has to be adjusted to match my 8" diameter tank. First step was to disassemble the different pieces.
In the picture you can see the cover plate with the main rail. Laying above it is the extension rail and above that is the black rectangular sending body.
Here is the measurement diagram in the instructions. This shows how to position the sending body and the length of the float arm
Need to find the dimension "A". Measure the depth of the tank from the sending unit platform. 8 - 1/2" deep.
This is supposed to be an 8" deep tank so the platform should be 1/2" high. Double check.
Here is the table that corresponds to the diagram. The "A" measurement is 8.00 so that gives 4.00" for "B" and 4.90" for "C".
The "B" setting is how far down to place the sending body. Have to add 1/2" to the "B" dimension to account for the raised platform. The extension rail won't be needed so mount the sending body to the main rail. On the sending body, measure to the anchor point for the float arm.
Next the "C" setting. This is how long to make the float arm. The table shows 4.9" which using "The Pocket Ref" translates to near 4-7/8". The instructions have you add one inch to that length for the anchor point. Measure and then mark the correct length with tape.
Cut the float arm and then mount to the sending body. The float must be to the right of the sending body.
See if it fits.
It does, just.
continued -
Fuel tank installation continued:
I now have some practice with threading holes into thin aluminum but before starting on the tank I'll have to figure out how to place the cover plate for the fuel sending unit. Here is the sending unit. Notice the round plastic float attached to the brass rod.
That float extends off to the side of the sending unit. Looking at this diagram of the fuel tank.
The platform for the sending unit is at the right end of the tank so I have to be sure to install the sending unit so the float extends to the left.
This sending unit is made to be used in tanks with a diameter of from 6 to 23 inches. It has to be adjusted to match my 8" diameter tank. First step was to disassemble the different pieces.
In the picture you can see the cover plate with the main rail. Laying above it is the extension rail and above that is the black rectangular sending body.
Here is the measurement diagram in the instructions. This shows how to position the sending body and the length of the float arm
Need to find the dimension "A". Measure the depth of the tank from the sending unit platform. 8 - 1/2" deep.
This is supposed to be an 8" deep tank so the platform should be 1/2" high. Double check.
Here is the table that corresponds to the diagram. The "A" measurement is 8.00 so that gives 4.00" for "B" and 4.90" for "C".
The "B" setting is how far down to place the sending body. Have to add 1/2" to the "B" dimension to account for the raised platform. The extension rail won't be needed so mount the sending body to the main rail. On the sending body, measure to the anchor point for the float arm.
Next the "C" setting. This is how long to make the float arm. The table shows 4.9" which using "The Pocket Ref" translates to near 4-7/8". The instructions have you add one inch to that length for the anchor point. Measure and then mark the correct length with tape.
Cut the float arm and then mount to the sending body. The float must be to the right of the sending body.
See if it fits.
It does, just.
continued -
Fuel tank installation continued:
To attach the sending unit to the mounting platform I'm going to to drill and then tap five holes on the platform. Tapping the hole will create threads that will hold machine screws. The screws then hold the sending unit in place. Here's the wiki page about taps and dies.
Since I'll only get one chance to get this right I better practice before drilling into the tank platform. I'll use the left over metal from the circle just cut out along with one other essential tool.
That tool would be "Pocket Ref" by Thomas J Glover. A small paperback with an amazing collection of information. While typing this up I went to find a link for the book (Amazon link-4th edition) and see that the 4th edition has just come out. Since I was using the 3rd edition I just ordered the new one. So this write up has now just cost me $12.05 (including shipping). I'll keep the 3rd edition in the van.
I'm going to use #10 machine screws since they are the largest ones that will fit through the sending unit's cover plate. I have both #10-24 and #10-32.
The second number refers to the number of threads per inch. The #10-32 is called a fine thread. I'll be tapping a hole into thin aluminum which doesn't have much holding power so I'll be using the #10-24 screws (coarse threads). There are less threads per inch but the threads are thicker so should grip better.
Open up the Pocket Ref and find the section on tap and dies. On the left side find the screw #10. There are entries for both 32 and 24 threads/inch. Look at the entry for 24. Under the heading "Drill" you'll see the number "#25".
The number "#25" is the drill bit gauge. My drill bits, and most probably yours, aren't sized by gauge but by fractions of an inch (or metric) so need to do a conversion. Find the pages for conversions.
There is no direct conversion for a #25 drill bit to any one I have on hand. Want to use the next closest size that is smaller so look up the chart to 9/64 which is a drill bit I have.
Before drilling use a punch to create an indention so the drill end won't wander.
The hole that will be tapped should be as straight as can be managed. To help out I'm using my combination square.
Remove the ruler and use just the head as a guide to align the drill bit.
Set the bit right into the ruler groove and check from all sides. Then slide the square head back and slowly start drilling keeping the upright angle.
Here's the tap and die set I'll be using which I recently inherited. Dies are the round objects along the top of the set. They are used to add, or fix, threads on a screw. Below and holding one of the dies is the die wrench. Below that are series of taps. And at the bottom a tap wrench.
I'll be using the tap wrench and a tapered tap that is marked for #10-24.
Assemble the tap and lubricate it before using. I'm using the stuff you find at the bottom of a can of Vienna Sausages to lubricate the tap.
Just Kidding!
Look in the Pocket Ref.
The recommended lubricant for the threading of aluminum is "Soluble Oil, Kerosene & Lard Oil". Lard Oil? I don't know what it is but bet there's some of it at the bottom of a Vienna Sausage can. Maybe I wasn't so far off the first time.
I'm really using the Vienna Sausage can to hold some kerosene.
Use the square head to align the tap.
When it looks good start rotating the tap wrench.
Apply a steady pressure and most importantly keep the tap going straight. Once you get the tap going you're supposed to rotate it in reverse every couple of turns to break off "the chip". With something this thin that didn't seem to be much of a problem.
Back out the tap and check the work by threading in a machine screw. Check out the alignment.
Looks dead straight to me. By the way, you're looking at the first hole I've ever tapped. I checked with my Dad about which kind of threads to use in aluminum shortly before he died but most of the other info for this I got by reading.
Something else I read. After using a tap you should "Clean the swarf from your flutes". Here's a picture of one of my flutes covered in swarf.
Don't know about you but I can't say that out loud without adopting a bad Swedish accent. From now on when asked where I've been or what I've been doing the answer will be, "Been cleaning the swarf from my flutes."
One more thing to check. Tighten the screw in all the way then keep tightening until I strip out the threads I've just cut. This way when it comes time to attach the sending unit I'll have a good idea of how far to safely torque the screws.
Tap three more holes and strip them out for practice.
continued -
To attach the sending unit to the mounting platform I'm going to to drill and then tap five holes on the platform. Tapping the hole will create threads that will hold machine screws. The screws then hold the sending unit in place. Here's the wiki page about taps and dies.
Since I'll only get one chance to get this right I better practice before drilling into the tank platform. I'll use the left over metal from the circle just cut out along with one other essential tool.
That tool would be "Pocket Ref" by Thomas J Glover. A small paperback with an amazing collection of information. While typing this up I went to find a link for the book (Amazon link-4th edition) and see that the 4th edition has just come out. Since I was using the 3rd edition I just ordered the new one. So this write up has now just cost me $12.05 (including shipping). I'll keep the 3rd edition in the van.
I'm going to use #10 machine screws since they are the largest ones that will fit through the sending unit's cover plate. I have both #10-24 and #10-32.
The second number refers to the number of threads per inch. The #10-32 is called a fine thread. I'll be tapping a hole into thin aluminum which doesn't have much holding power so I'll be using the #10-24 screws (coarse threads). There are less threads per inch but the threads are thicker so should grip better.
Open up the Pocket Ref and find the section on tap and dies. On the left side find the screw #10. There are entries for both 32 and 24 threads/inch. Look at the entry for 24. Under the heading "Drill" you'll see the number "#25".
The number "#25" is the drill bit gauge. My drill bits, and most probably yours, aren't sized by gauge but by fractions of an inch (or metric) so need to do a conversion. Find the pages for conversions.
There is no direct conversion for a #25 drill bit to any one I have on hand. Want to use the next closest size that is smaller so look up the chart to 9/64 which is a drill bit I have.
Before drilling use a punch to create an indention so the drill end won't wander.
The hole that will be tapped should be as straight as can be managed. To help out I'm using my combination square.
Remove the ruler and use just the head as a guide to align the drill bit.
Set the bit right into the ruler groove and check from all sides. Then slide the square head back and slowly start drilling keeping the upright angle.
Here's the tap and die set I'll be using which I recently inherited. Dies are the round objects along the top of the set. They are used to add, or fix, threads on a screw. Below and holding one of the dies is the die wrench. Below that are series of taps. And at the bottom a tap wrench.
I'll be using the tap wrench and a tapered tap that is marked for #10-24.
Assemble the tap and lubricate it before using. I'm using the stuff you find at the bottom of a can of Vienna Sausages to lubricate the tap.
Just Kidding!
Look in the Pocket Ref.
The recommended lubricant for the threading of aluminum is "Soluble Oil, Kerosene & Lard Oil". Lard Oil? I don't know what it is but bet there's some of it at the bottom of a Vienna Sausage can. Maybe I wasn't so far off the first time.
I'm really using the Vienna Sausage can to hold some kerosene.
Use the square head to align the tap.
When it looks good start rotating the tap wrench.
Apply a steady pressure and most importantly keep the tap going straight. Once you get the tap going you're supposed to rotate it in reverse every couple of turns to break off "the chip". With something this thin that didn't seem to be much of a problem.
Back out the tap and check the work by threading in a machine screw. Check out the alignment.
Looks dead straight to me. By the way, you're looking at the first hole I've ever tapped. I checked with my Dad about which kind of threads to use in aluminum shortly before he died but most of the other info for this I got by reading.
Something else I read. After using a tap you should "Clean the swarf from your flutes". Here's a picture of one of my flutes covered in swarf.
Don't know about you but I can't say that out loud without adopting a bad Swedish accent. From now on when asked where I've been or what I've been doing the answer will be, "Been cleaning the swarf from my flutes."
One more thing to check. Tighten the screw in all the way then keep tightening until I strip out the threads I've just cut. This way when it comes time to attach the sending unit I'll have a good idea of how far to safely torque the screws.
Tap three more holes and strip them out for practice.
continued -
Back to work.
Fuel tank installation continued:
This write up isn't in chronological order so some of the pictures might look out of order. I think it makes more sense this way.
With the fuel inlet completed next up is to prep the tank. I'll need to to add a fuel standpipe, a vacuum vent and fuel level sending unit. Start with the sending unit.
It's a "VDO Gauges 226001 - VDO Fuel Tank Senders". Currently $26.95 at Summit Racing where I bought it.
The sending unit will be mounted on this platform part of the tank.
To drill through the tank I'm going to use this hole saw.
It's the same one I used to drill through the side of the van for the fuel inlet. At the time I wondered if I was going to need it again. Turns out it's the perfect size for this too.
Start with a pilot hole at the center of the mounting platform.
Then use the hole saw but keep the drill at a slow speed.
Done.
Use a curved file to clean up and smooth out the edge of the hole. Then follow that up with some sandpaper.
Here's the view down into the tank through the new hole. Fair amount of metal filings.
After several rinses at the utility sink it comes out looking clean.
continued -
Fuel tank installation continued:
This write up isn't in chronological order so some of the pictures might look out of order. I think it makes more sense this way.
With the fuel inlet completed next up is to prep the tank. I'll need to to add a fuel standpipe, a vacuum vent and fuel level sending unit. Start with the sending unit.
It's a "VDO Gauges 226001 - VDO Fuel Tank Senders". Currently $26.95 at Summit Racing where I bought it.
The sending unit will be mounted on this platform part of the tank.
To drill through the tank I'm going to use this hole saw.
It's the same one I used to drill through the side of the van for the fuel inlet. At the time I wondered if I was going to need it again. Turns out it's the perfect size for this too.
Start with a pilot hole at the center of the mounting platform.
Then use the hole saw but keep the drill at a slow speed.
Done.
Use a curved file to clean up and smooth out the edge of the hole. Then follow that up with some sandpaper.
Here's the view down into the tank through the new hole. Fair amount of metal filings.
After several rinses at the utility sink it comes out looking clean.
continued -
I know Kevbarlas and his welding skills on the 1959 Ford Thames campervan restoration will put my puny efforts to shame but you have to start somewhere, and so I have.
I weld about as well as I print.
For practice I have started welding every loose piece of scrap metal I've got laying around to every other piece.
If I was famous I could call this "Art" .....
.... or maybe Steve.
I weld about as well as I print.
For practice I have started welding every loose piece of scrap metal I've got laying around to every other piece.
If I was famous I could call this "Art" .....
.... or maybe Steve.
Every dark cloud does not contain a silver lining but there might be something else in there.
My Dad's life insurance policy from 1946.
It measures 12" x 19". It looks so neat I'm thinking of framing it. The policy was for $2000 which I'm sure was a lot of money back then. Still nothing to sneeze at but I'm not the only heir.
There was enough for my new little friend who arrived today. A 230 volt combination MIG/stick inverter based welder.
Have never welded before but going to give it a try. If I get the hang of it I've already got some ideas.
All that's needed now is a 230 volt outlet, and a welding helmet and welding gloves and welding jacket and a 80cf pressurized cylinder with a 75%Argon/25%CO2 shielding gas mixture and some clamps and some more welding rods and a metal table and some steel to practice on and some welding wire and some ..............
My Dad's life insurance policy from 1946.
It measures 12" x 19". It looks so neat I'm thinking of framing it. The policy was for $2000 which I'm sure was a lot of money back then. Still nothing to sneeze at but I'm not the only heir.
There was enough for my new little friend who arrived today. A 230 volt combination MIG/stick inverter based welder.
Have never welded before but going to give it a try. If I get the hang of it I've already got some ideas.
All that's needed now is a 230 volt outlet, and a welding helmet and welding gloves and welding jacket and a 80cf pressurized cylinder with a 75%Argon/25%CO2 shielding gas mixture and some clamps and some more welding rods and a metal table and some steel to practice on and some welding wire and some ..............
Right now in my Van, I have 6 muffin fans running. One in the fridge, one behind it, 2 on the roof exhausting, one in the laptop, and one blowing cool air at the laptop's intake. That is about half of them.
Condensation on the roof is not only an uncomfortable problem, it is bad for the van. It drips down inside the top rails and begins the rust rot.
Your body is the moisture source, and it collects anywhere cold like a cold beer can will on a hot humid day.
Making the inside temperature the same as the outside temperature will reduce this. Having a fan to exhaust your hot breath will help as well.
I have some intake fans in one of my rear conversion van windows. 3 120 mm fans. mounted in 1/4 inch thick plywood. The one on the end is a silverstone fm121 adjustable speed fan. It is rated at 33 to 110 cfmand draws less than 0.1 volts to just over 0.4 amps on high. The 2 others are probably move around 130 cfm each, and draw about 0.65 amps each. With all three on, my van is a wind tunnel. Here's a photo.
Today is cool and drizzly so I have that window closed and those fans off. When it is blazing hot outside, it is either cooler inside my van, or the same temp as outside.
I glued 1/2 foam insulation from the home stores to my ceiling. and have made custom fit reflectix window shades for all the windows.
Condensation on the roof is not only an uncomfortable problem, it is bad for the van. It drips down inside the top rails and begins the rust rot.
Your body is the moisture source, and it collects anywhere cold like a cold beer can will on a hot humid day.
Making the inside temperature the same as the outside temperature will reduce this. Having a fan to exhaust your hot breath will help as well.
I have some intake fans in one of my rear conversion van windows. 3 120 mm fans. mounted in 1/4 inch thick plywood. The one on the end is a silverstone fm121 adjustable speed fan. It is rated at 33 to 110 cfmand draws less than 0.1 volts to just over 0.4 amps on high. The 2 others are probably move around 130 cfm each, and draw about 0.65 amps each. With all three on, my van is a wind tunnel. Here's a photo.
Today is cool and drizzly so I have that window closed and those fans off. When it is blazing hot outside, it is either cooler inside my van, or the same temp as outside.
I glued 1/2 foam insulation from the home stores to my ceiling. and have made custom fit reflectix window shades for all the windows.
Past two weekends:
Some place in the woods. With the van, who needs a campground?
West Virginia in the foreground and Virginia in the distance.
Heater Fuel Tank continued:
With the fuel hose trimmed to the proper length, need to attach it to the fuel inlet and seal up the hole in the rocker panel with a cover plate.
The problem is that with the fuel tank in place there isn't enough room to get my hand up between the tank and the rocker panel. I'll need to locate where the fuel hose is positioned so when I install the cover plate I can duplicate that position without the tank being in place.
I'll use the combination square.
Keeping the bubble level place the ruler against one side of the hose then mark on the rocker panel. Do the same to the other side.
That locates left and right. To measure the other direction I placed the end of the ruler against the bottom center of the fuel hose. I measured it with the tank but removed it for this picture so it's easier to see.
With the ruler against the hose, slide the square head up against the bottom edge of the van while keeping the bubble level. Then lock the head into place.
Using the measurement create a template from my old friend poster board.
I use a catalog as cutting board when trimming poster board.
Test fit of the template. Notice the two pencil marks below the template on the rocker panel that mark the left and right location of the fuel hose.
Use the combination square to re-position the fuel hose and check if the poster board template is the right size.
After the test fitting I decided to increase the size of the actual cover plate.
I'll make the cover plate from this steel plate.
It's the left over inspection plate from the rear of my old washing machine. Gone but not forgotten. The inspection plate metal is just the right thickness for this type of application.
Use the jigsaw to cut out the plate. Use my workshop garbage can to support the plate as I cut since it's the right size and better yet the metal shavings won't have to be swept up later.
When using the jigsaw it will sometimes leave behind a sharp cornice of leftover metal. I always use a file to clean off the sharp edge before doing anything else. If not, there will be blood.
Transfer the location of the hole from the template to the cover plate.
Find the center of the circle and mark it with a punch.
The center punch helps keep the hole saw from wandering. Drill out the hole for the fuel hose.
Since the cover plate will be up against the hose, I filed down the edges of the hole till it's smooth enough that I can safely run my fingers along it.
Test fit the cover plate. The ground wire also fits through the fuel hose hole.
Move the hose into position and mark the edges of the cover plate.
Ready to seal up the rocker panel. Use a screw clamp and wrench to attach the fuel hose to the fuel inlet.
Will use sheet metal screws to hold the cover plate to the side of the rocker panel. Start with #8 screws. Can always move up to #10s if needed.
Pre-drill the holes for the screws.
Test fit the plate, screws, hose and fuel tank.
Here's the silicone sealant I've been using.
Place the sealant around the perimeter of the cut out.
Screw the cover plate into place. Use more sealant around the edge of the plate and all around the fuel hose. The more sealant the better. Let the sealant set up.
Doing all this work under the van I found that the fuel tank works as a good head rest.
As usual, I wasn't working alone.
continued -
Some place in the woods. With the van, who needs a campground?
West Virginia in the foreground and Virginia in the distance.
Heater Fuel Tank continued:
With the fuel hose trimmed to the proper length, need to attach it to the fuel inlet and seal up the hole in the rocker panel with a cover plate.
The problem is that with the fuel tank in place there isn't enough room to get my hand up between the tank and the rocker panel. I'll need to locate where the fuel hose is positioned so when I install the cover plate I can duplicate that position without the tank being in place.
I'll use the combination square.
Keeping the bubble level place the ruler against one side of the hose then mark on the rocker panel. Do the same to the other side.
That locates left and right. To measure the other direction I placed the end of the ruler against the bottom center of the fuel hose. I measured it with the tank but removed it for this picture so it's easier to see.
With the ruler against the hose, slide the square head up against the bottom edge of the van while keeping the bubble level. Then lock the head into place.
Using the measurement create a template from my old friend poster board.
I use a catalog as cutting board when trimming poster board.
Test fit of the template. Notice the two pencil marks below the template on the rocker panel that mark the left and right location of the fuel hose.
Use the combination square to re-position the fuel hose and check if the poster board template is the right size.
After the test fitting I decided to increase the size of the actual cover plate.
I'll make the cover plate from this steel plate.
It's the left over inspection plate from the rear of my old washing machine. Gone but not forgotten. The inspection plate metal is just the right thickness for this type of application.
Use the jigsaw to cut out the plate. Use my workshop garbage can to support the plate as I cut since it's the right size and better yet the metal shavings won't have to be swept up later.
When using the jigsaw it will sometimes leave behind a sharp cornice of leftover metal. I always use a file to clean off the sharp edge before doing anything else. If not, there will be blood.
Transfer the location of the hole from the template to the cover plate.
Find the center of the circle and mark it with a punch.
The center punch helps keep the hole saw from wandering. Drill out the hole for the fuel hose.
Since the cover plate will be up against the hose, I filed down the edges of the hole till it's smooth enough that I can safely run my fingers along it.
Test fit the cover plate. The ground wire also fits through the fuel hose hole.
Move the hose into position and mark the edges of the cover plate.
Ready to seal up the rocker panel. Use a screw clamp and wrench to attach the fuel hose to the fuel inlet.
Will use sheet metal screws to hold the cover plate to the side of the rocker panel. Start with #8 screws. Can always move up to #10s if needed.
Pre-drill the holes for the screws.
Test fit the plate, screws, hose and fuel tank.
Here's the silicone sealant I've been using.
Place the sealant around the perimeter of the cut out.
Screw the cover plate into place. Use more sealant around the edge of the plate and all around the fuel hose. The more sealant the better. Let the sealant set up.
Doing all this work under the van I found that the fuel tank works as a good head rest.
As usual, I wasn't working alone.
continued -
Heater Fuel Tank continued:
With the brackets installed, fit the fuel tank into place.
First thing I realized was that I had no way to tell if the tank was perfectly upright. Remove the tank and use the combination square to mark it so I'll be able to identify the dead center bottom while lying under it.
Re-mount the tank and check the alignment of the tank inlet with the cutout for the fuel inlet. Looks like I might be around an inch off but not to worry. That's why the fuel hose that will connect the two is made from rubber.
Remove the tank and fit the fuel hose onto the inlet.
Want to cut the hose so it's bend is just at the end of the tank inlet. The inlet is 1-3/4" long.
Measure back that far from the bend and cut the hose. Hint: Put a new blade in your utility knife before you start cutting. Will cut easier and cleaner.
Slide the cut end onto the tank inlet and check it's fit.
Mount the tank and attach the hose to the fuel inlet on the side of the van.
I couldn't get an exact measurement of the how much shorter I wanted the fuel hose but I eyeballed it at around 1-1/2".
Remember to be conservative since you can always cut off extra but can't add more if you over estimate. Cut the hose.
Got it right with the first cut. Perfect fit.
Laying under the van looking up at the fuel tank I had one of those deja vu moments. Then I remembered where I'd seen this before.
It was a from a few weeks before when the B-17 Flying Fortress "Sentimental Journey" was in the area.
I had a similar view when looking up into the bomb bay.
continued -
With the brackets installed, fit the fuel tank into place.
First thing I realized was that I had no way to tell if the tank was perfectly upright. Remove the tank and use the combination square to mark it so I'll be able to identify the dead center bottom while lying under it.
Re-mount the tank and check the alignment of the tank inlet with the cutout for the fuel inlet. Looks like I might be around an inch off but not to worry. That's why the fuel hose that will connect the two is made from rubber.
Remove the tank and fit the fuel hose onto the inlet.
Want to cut the hose so it's bend is just at the end of the tank inlet. The inlet is 1-3/4" long.
Measure back that far from the bend and cut the hose. Hint: Put a new blade in your utility knife before you start cutting. Will cut easier and cleaner.
Slide the cut end onto the tank inlet and check it's fit.
Mount the tank and attach the hose to the fuel inlet on the side of the van.
I couldn't get an exact measurement of the how much shorter I wanted the fuel hose but I eyeballed it at around 1-1/2".
Remember to be conservative since you can always cut off extra but can't add more if you over estimate. Cut the hose.
Got it right with the first cut. Perfect fit.
Laying under the van looking up at the fuel tank I had one of those deja vu moments. Then I remembered where I'd seen this before.
It was a from a few weeks before when the B-17 Flying Fortress "Sentimental Journey" was in the area.
I had a similar view when looking up into the bomb bay.
continued -
Thanks Dale.
I don't know that I'd call my van ornate. With the top down I still think it looks pretty much like your average work van, at least on the outside.
Heater Fuel Tank continued:
With the mounts for the tanks done I'll be adding a grounding wire. The wire will connect the fuel inlet to the fuel tank so they will both be at the same electrical potential. This is to prevent any electrical sparks when filling the tank.
The connection to the fuel tank was made by crimping a ring terminal to one end of a 12 gauge wire and tightening it to one of the fuel inlet mounting screws.
I'll make the connection to the tank by adding a grounding strap to the mounting bracket. The tank will be in connect with the strap when bolted into place. I was going to make the grounding strap out of copper until I did a little research on galvanic corrosion. The problem is that according to the anodic index, copper has a value of .35 V and the tank aluminum is .90 V. This is a difference of greater then the recommended value of 0.25 V which could lead to excess corrosion. I'll make the grounding strap out of aluminum instead.
Looking around for some aluminum I noticed this roll of flashing I had laying around.
Cut out a length of the flashing and drill it to match a mounting bolt.
Tape one end of the strap to hold it into place.
Mount the bracket into place and use one bolt to secure the other end of the grounding wire between the grounding strap and the bracket.
To check that I have a good electrical connection take a voltmeter and put it on it's resistance setting. Place one probe against the grounding strap.
Place the other probe against the fuel inlet.
Then check the reading on the voltmeter. In this application the lower the number the better. The resistance value is 0.4 ohm so it's a good connection.
By the way, those are my legs but that's not my tail.
Bob starting acting a little strange that day after the lunch break.
I'm afraid she's been getting into the catnip. Hope I won't need to do an intervention with her, again.
continued -
I don't know that I'd call my van ornate. With the top down I still think it looks pretty much like your average work van, at least on the outside.
Heater Fuel Tank continued:
With the mounts for the tanks done I'll be adding a grounding wire. The wire will connect the fuel inlet to the fuel tank so they will both be at the same electrical potential. This is to prevent any electrical sparks when filling the tank.
The connection to the fuel tank was made by crimping a ring terminal to one end of a 12 gauge wire and tightening it to one of the fuel inlet mounting screws.
I'll make the connection to the tank by adding a grounding strap to the mounting bracket. The tank will be in connect with the strap when bolted into place. I was going to make the grounding strap out of copper until I did a little research on galvanic corrosion. The problem is that according to the anodic index, copper has a value of .35 V and the tank aluminum is .90 V. This is a difference of greater then the recommended value of 0.25 V which could lead to excess corrosion. I'll make the grounding strap out of aluminum instead.
Looking around for some aluminum I noticed this roll of flashing I had laying around.
Cut out a length of the flashing and drill it to match a mounting bolt.
Tape one end of the strap to hold it into place.
Mount the bracket into place and use one bolt to secure the other end of the grounding wire between the grounding strap and the bracket.
To check that I have a good electrical connection take a voltmeter and put it on it's resistance setting. Place one probe against the grounding strap.
Place the other probe against the fuel inlet.
Then check the reading on the voltmeter. In this application the lower the number the better. The resistance value is 0.4 ohm so it's a good connection.
By the way, those are my legs but that's not my tail.
Bob starting acting a little strange that day after the lunch break.
I'm afraid she's been getting into the catnip. Hope I won't need to do an intervention with her, again.
continued -
