Ticking/Knocking Engine noise 1989 Coachmen E250

[Assyrian_Elvis]

Hey guys. I just bought an 89 Coachmen Ford Econoline E250. Got it from Vegas and it was one owner and carfax verified to have only 44000 miles on it. It is in mint condition. I drove it from Vegas to Little Rock Arkansas with no problems. I recently have been hearing a ticking noise coming from the right driver side engine area near the power steering pump. The ticking noise does not go away and the van is struggling to get over 55mph on the highway. Im not sure if it is and exhaust manifold or catalytic converter. Hopefully its not the valves or lifters. Just wanted to get some help and info on this. Anyone can help lemme know.

Also 2 other issues. My onan generator was worked on by a guy and he messed it up. Before it would work and I used the rooftop AC for 2 days. Now when I turn the fan option on the coleman rooftop ac it works, once I select the low cool or high cool option for the AC it shuts off. The regular fan option works on the rooftop unit when the genset is on but when the actual air condition option is selected like low cool or high cool, it shuts off right away.

The other issue is my monitor panel is not working and my propane tank if leaking propane from the valve. Any guys on here from the little rock area who work on rvs please contact me cus I wanna get it fixed. Any info or help on here? Lemme know guys.

[Arizona_Kid]

I have no idea where your converter is, you will have to look for it.

[Assyrian_Elvis]

Arizona Kid wrote:

KK&R wrote:
Az Kid,

Could you clarify in less technical terms what you refer to as " all the screws holding the ground wires on the bus bar." I'd like to do this, but bus bar is not a term with which I am familiar.
Also, by "wires going to the breakers," do you mean the wires that end up in the breaker/fuse box behind the sheet metal housing the converter? So you mean just tighten their connections with a screwdriver? Clarification appreciated.

Yes by the converter. The ground wires are attached to a bar, called a bus bar, or ground bar. There are set screws for several black ground wires.
Disconnect the battery first.

Bus bar is the verticle white piece with the set screws. Others may vary. All wires should be checked, and tightened if needed.

So where is this on my van? Im new to this. Just wondering.

[Arizona_Kid]

KK&R wrote:
Az Kid,

Could you clarify in less technical terms what you refer to as " all the screws holding the ground wires on the bus bar." I'd like to do this, but bus bar is not a term with which I am familiar.
Also, by "wires going to the breakers," do you mean the wires that end up in the breaker/fuse box behind the sheet metal housing the converter? So you mean just tighten their connections with a screwdriver? Clarification appreciated.

Yes by the converter. The ground wires are attached to a bar, called a bus bar, or ground bar. There are set screws for several black ground wires.
Disconnect the battery first.

Bus bar is the verticle white piece with the set screws. Others may vary. All wires should be checked, and tightened if needed.

[Assyrian_Elvis]

Assyrian_Elvis wrote:

Arizona Kid wrote:
Horizontal tanks do not need re-certified, but a system that old should be throughly checked out by someone. (expert) You may still run into problems with places refusing to fill your tank, because it doesn't have an OPD valve, even though it's legal.

Also, and this goes for everyone, check all the screws holding the ground wires on the bus bar, and check the wires going to the breakers. These tend to vibrate loose, and can short frying a breaker, or cause a fire. These should be checked at least once a year.

AZKID, should I take my unit to camping world or some other rv place. Businesses that sell propane only fill your tank they do not certify or inspect the propane system. BTW we turned on the furnace and it works but it wasnt blowing hot air, do you know why? There is propane in the tank.

MR KK, I agree with you also im kinda confused what hes talking about. What about yourself kk, what do you do every year to check or inspect your propane system. Im new to the rv lifestyle and im not a mechanic.

[Assyrian_Elvis]

Arizona Kid wrote:
Horizontal tanks do not need re-certified, but a system that old should be throughly checked out by someone. (expert) You may still run into problems with places refusing to fill your tank, because it doesn't have an OPD valve, even though it's legal.

Also, and this goes for everyone, check all the screws holding the ground wires on the bus bar, and check the wires going to the breakers. These tend to vibrate loose, and can short frying a breaker, or cause a fire. These should be checked at least once a year.

AZKID, should I take my unit to camping world or some other rv place. Businesses that sell propane only fill your tank they do not certify or inspect the propane system. BTW we turned on the furnace and it works but it wasnt blowing hot air, do you know why? There is propane in the tank.

[KK_R]

Az Kid,

Could you clarify in less technical terms what you refer to as " all the screws holding the ground wires on the bus bar." I'd like to do this, but bus bar is not a term with which I am familiar.
Also, by "wires going to the breakers," do you mean the wires that end up in the breaker/fuse box behind the sheet metal housing the converter? So you mean just tighten their connections with a screwdriver? Clarification appreciated.

[Arizona_Kid]

Horizontal tanks do not need re-certified, but a system that old should be throughly checked out by someone. (expert) You may still run into problems with places refusing to fill your tank, because it doesn't have an OPD valve, even though it's legal.

Also, and this goes for everyone, check all the screws holding the ground wires on the bus bar, and check the wires going to the breakers. These tend to vibrate loose, and can short frying a breaker, or cause a fire. These should be checked at least once a year.

[Assyrian_Elvis]

Good news on my van guys. A really smart rv and ford guy from ford truck enthusiast forums told me the ticking noise was possibly the number 5 spark plug wire or spark plug loose causing ticking noise and acceleration problem. Well this gentleman was 100% right. And he got the exact spark plug #5 right. His name is subford from ford truck forums. Thank goodness no more ticking noise or acceleration problems. Advice to you guys, if yall ever hear a ticking noise check your plug, dist cap, rotor, and plug wires connection. Also ticking could come from a out of time timing belt or timing chain. Anyways thanks goodness im in the clear now. Just wanted to let you guys know.

[Assyrian_Elvis]

Arizona Kid wrote:

bsinmich wrote:

Arizona Kid wrote:
"It's against the law for sellers of Propane to fill a DOT propane tank that is 12 years or older that has not been re-certified. The propane tank must be recertified by a facility that is certified to do DOT Tank recertification. Some large Propane suppliers and some RV repair facilities are certified to do the DOT Tank recertification.
When the DOT Tank is inspected and passes it is recertified for 5 years and must be re-inspected and recertified every 5 years thereafter. Every time it is recertified a new re-certification label is affixed to the DOT Propane Tank."

Please be careful with propane, and have you whole system checked out.

You are referring to the removable tanks. If his tank is chassis mounted to the frame those rules don't apply. It has been suggested you take it to a propane dealer for service, not Camping World. The propane dealers I have had experience with have been very reasonable in their pricing. Find out what they would charge for a replacement valve.

You are correct, looks like the law was changed in 2001 for those old tanks.

The new OPD (Overfilling Prevention Device) valves will be required on 4 lb. to 40 lb. propane cylinders from 1 April 2002. However, the currently available new valves are designed only for vertical cylinders and cannot be used with horizontal cylinders. Therefore, horizontal cylinders manufactured prior to 1 October 1998 have been exempted from having OPD valves, provided they are so labeled. (Such cylinders manufactured after 1 October 1998 do already have OPD valves).

AZ kid Ive heard on another forum that chassis mounted tanks have to be recertified every 12 yrs, Is this true? Some one else said that on here if u have chassis monunted tank you dont have to have it certified.

[Arizona_Kid]

bsinmich wrote:

Arizona Kid wrote:
"It's against the law for sellers of Propane to fill a DOT propane tank that is 12 years or older that has not been re-certified. The propane tank must be recertified by a facility that is certified to do DOT Tank recertification. Some large Propane suppliers and some RV repair facilities are certified to do the DOT Tank recertification.
When the DOT Tank is inspected and passes it is recertified for 5 years and must be re-inspected and recertified every 5 years thereafter. Every time it is recertified a new re-certification label is affixed to the DOT Propane Tank."

Please be careful with propane, and have you whole system checked out.

You are referring to the removable tanks. If his tank is chassis mounted to the frame those rules don't apply. It has been suggested you take it to a propane dealer for service, not Camping World. The propane dealers I have had experience with have been very reasonable in their pricing. Find out what they would charge for a replacement valve.

You are correct, looks like the law was changed in 2001 for those old tanks.

The new OPD (Overfilling Prevention Device) valves will be required on 4 lb. to 40 lb. propane cylinders from 1 April 2002. However, the currently available new valves are designed only for vertical cylinders and cannot be used with horizontal cylinders. Therefore, horizontal cylinders manufactured prior to 1 October 1998 have been exempted from having OPD valves, provided they are so labeled. (Such cylinders manufactured after 1 October 1998 do already have OPD valves).

[Handbasket]

Dirt on a belt can cause a ticking sound as the belt articulates on/off of the pulleys. I agree with PaulJ2, you can remove the belt and run the engine.

Or use my friend's technique. He's a 30+ year high-line import mechanic (MB, BMW, etc). He sprays a little silicone spray lube on the offending belt.

I've seen him do it on my Tiger's serpentine belt. The ticking noise went away _instantly_. It's just a diagnostic tool, it won't eliminate the noise for long. But it does no harm (I've run that same belt another 55,000 miles). Now if it's belt noise, you'll know and can decide if it's annoying enough to be worth replacing.

Jim, "Mo' coffee!"

[bsinmich]

Arizona Kid wrote:
"It's against the law for sellers of Propane to fill a DOT propane tank that is 12 years or older that has not been re-certified. The propane tank must be recertified by a facility that is certified to do DOT Tank recertification. Some large Propane suppliers and some RV repair facilities are certified to do the DOT Tank recertification.
When the DOT Tank is inspected and passes it is recertified for 5 years and must be re-inspected and recertified every 5 years thereafter. Every time it is recertified a new re-certification label is affixed to the DOT Propane Tank."

Please be careful with propane, and have you whole system checked out.

You are referring to the removable tanks. If his tank is chassis mounted to the frame those rules don't apply. It has been suggested you take it to a propane dealer for service, not Camping World. The propane dealers I have had experience with have been very reasonable in their pricing. Find out what they would charge for a replacement valve.

[PaulJ2]

Simply take off the power steering belt and start the engine. Ticking gone? Or still there? Wont hurt anything for a minute or so.

[Assyrian_Elvis]

Ok guys heres an update on my van. I had a firestone tech just listen to the engine and he thinks the ticking noise is from a loose spark plug wire or loose or bad connected spark plug. I talked to another guy whos a race car mechanic and he thinks the ticking noise is coming from the pulley attached to the power steering pump. He told me the bearings wear out in the pulleys and cause the ticking noise and problems with acceleration. There are 3 pulleys i believe one is for ac compresser, 2nd is for alternator and 3rd is on the power steering pump.The ticking noise seems to be coming from the pulley near the power steering pump. What you guys think any suggestions?