โDec-10-2009 06:16 PM
โDec-06-2010 06:11 PM
โDec-06-2010 04:23 PM
โDec-06-2010 12:50 PM
Gene in NE wrote:tenbear wrote:Maybe you do not have roof vents in your part of the country. Here in the midwest where humidity and condensation can be a problem, we have ridge vents, turtle vents, turbo vents, powered vents all as a choice on our houses. Ours has a whole house fan, about 8 turtle vents and 2 turbo vents.;)
What part do the roof vents play in taking the moisture out of the MH? We keep the roof vents open, with Max Air covers, and have no problem with moisture. Houses don't have these vents.
โDec-06-2010 12:33 PM
tenbear wrote:Maybe you do not have roof vents in your part of the country. Here in the midwest where humidity and condensation can be a problem, we have ridge vents, turtle vents, turbo vents, powered vents all as a choice on our houses. Ours has a whole house fan, about 8 turtle vents and 2 turbo vents.;)
What part do the roof vents play in taking the moisture out of the MH? We keep the roof vents open, with Max Air covers, and have no problem with moisture. Houses don't have these vents.
โDec-06-2010 12:32 PM
Lady Trucker wrote:
One thing I don't want is the bathroom up front where it was. So if it means partially closing off the back window then so be it. I'm happy with the results so far.
Happy Holidays everyone...peace and love โค๏ธ
โDec-06-2010 12:00 PM
โDec-06-2010 11:44 AM
โDec-06-2010 11:36 AM
imon32red wrote:Thank you....When you start on your layout I wish ya the best of luck with it, Its not as hard as some would think and if you run into anything that you are not sure of there is a bunch of people on this RV.net that has the know how so you would not be in the dark with something like that, You would not believe the help and ideals that I have had from all of the people on here its just a great place with great people.
I like to do things myself, to a certain extent. Tackling a rebuild of a motorhome is beyond my comfort zone, so I would never attempt it. I login and follow your rebuild here about once a month.
The one thing that keeps coming to my mind over and over again is the fact that this will be better built than one that comes from the factory. You can also layout your motorhome any way that you want. I am kicking over some ideas to change the layout on my '86 Eldorado to be more functional for me.
Keep up the good work, and I really love each and every picture that you post.
โDec-06-2010 11:20 AM
lzasitko wrote:No there not, Sorry I'm not much on drawing with the Paint brush that is in this computer, That was just a rough drawing just to show how the window in the bath will be worked.oldtrucker63 wrote:John H wrote:
Is the drawing above to scale ?
I'm not sure what you mean Is it Scale... The drawing itself is about 1/4 scale,...LOL But still not sure what the question is.:h
I think what he means is... is the walls in the correct positions relative to one another. When I draw house plans on paper for prelim I use paper that has a thin grid of lines every 1/4" and use that to lay out the floorplan, one grid may equal 1 square foot or 2 grid lines might equal 1 square foot. On the computer in my cadd program everything is drawn in real life scale ie 1:1 so you draw a rectangle for example 24x30 (or waterver the actual tub is) to represent your tub. On the computer you then print it to scale so when you measure it with a ruler on paper it is correct.
โDec-06-2010 11:13 AM
lzasitko wrote:I think your right, And Like coloradohoosier has said there needs to be air movement to allow moister humidity to exit the structure, In a house the attic is vented to allow this air movement, In this old dodge RV the outer metal siding allows this air movement, Only I believe the air inside of a RV should not be allow to reach the outer walls, The metal skin will let the air move to dry any condensation on the metals inter side and this should be the only place that condensation will gather as long as the air inside the RV is limited to inside the RV wall, The air inside the RV, AC or Heating should not reach the outer skin because this is what causes condensation, I believe a RV is a bit different than a house,coloradohoosier wrote:
I'm not sure if you want it all air tight. One thing I haven't seen mentioned when talking about insulation and vapor barrier in houses is that ceilings always use non-faced insulation. You want excess moisture and humidity to exit the structure (this is also partly why attics are vented at the soffits and up high). Your roof ia already a sealed membrane, so you might be best off if you end your vabor barrier six or eight inches from the top of the walls, intentionally allowing a place for vapor to exit. I can't say for certain, but suggest you do more research before sealing it all too tight. I'd hate to see you end up with unwanted water condensation inside after you're all done.
YOU WANT IT AIR TIGHT!
When building a house or a motorhome your worst enemy is air movement or air infiltration. If you can stop air from coming in or going out it is easier to heat or cool. The plastic is a vapour barrier same as in any house and is must be placed on the warm side of the wall as this is where moisture will condense. Insulation does let some air movement (batt insulation) which will help keep things dry. The Roof or exterior of most structures are not air tight. Houses these days are wrapped in a fabric (like Tyvek) which allows moisture to escape, but resists water penetration from outside. Even metal siding is not completely air tight (you still have joints or overlaps).
โDec-06-2010 11:12 AM
oldtrucker63 wrote:Love the rough draft honey. ๐Mike and Paula wrote:That rear window will be blacked out, Nothing seen from the outside looking in, And the only place to see out from the inside will be in the head of the bunk beds and maybe a small area in the bath area, This is still heads up, (In the making) What ever way it go's It will look good from the inside and out.:C LOL I guess from looking at the layout it is hard to see what I see in the end, But as we go along then it will start to show.oldtrucker63 wrote:
Best I can get right now, Anyway With Cabinets over the sink/Stove and over the table and fridge, A door at the bathroom and a curtain at the bunk door. As far as the measurements I can't get this Paint to type letters so right now I guess that is out....LOL:W
My question is how you going to finish in the bath/shower around that big rear window?
โDec-06-2010 11:09 AM
โDec-06-2010 10:42 AM
โDec-06-2010 08:40 AM
coloradohoosier wrote:
I'm not sure if you want it all air tight. One thing I haven't seen mentioned when talking about insulation and vapor barrier in houses is that ceilings always use non-faced insulation. You want excess moisture and humidity to exit the structure (this is also partly why attics are vented at the soffits and up high). Your roof ia already a sealed membrane, so you might be best off if you end your vabor barrier six or eight inches from the top of the walls, intentionally allowing a place for vapor to exit. I can't say for certain, but suggest you do more research before sealing it all too tight. I'd hate to see you end up with unwanted water condensation inside after you're all done.
โDec-06-2010 08:23 AM
oldtrucker63 wrote:John H wrote:
Is the drawing above to scale ?
I'm not sure what you mean Is it Scale... The drawing itself is about 1/4 scale,...LOL But still not sure what the question is.:h