โDec-10-2009 06:16 PM
โDec-06-2010 05:09 AM
oldtrucker63 wrote:
I think this plastic is about 6 mil also, I have been overlapping the ends and same at the top where the wall meets the ceiling, I think this will seal everything air tight, I never thought of using Acoustic sealant to seal them I wished I would have though but its to late for that, For the most part, I can still seal it at the floor and I will do that, I'm just trying to get everything air tight.
โDec-05-2010 11:03 PM
โDec-05-2010 11:03 PM
โDec-05-2010 11:02 PM
โDec-05-2010 10:55 PM
John H wrote:I know what your saying here and it is the best way of doing work like this, But when I started to put all this down on paper That is when all of my problems would start, You have to remember I got my education from the Interstate News.....LOL And would be lost with this all on paper, Although it is all in my head and I can lay it out with hammer and nails without getting half way through and saying OH Sh*t:S...LOL And then having to tear it apart and start over, It just takes a little of what I call simply Planing, I take all of the measurements time and time again, Only there stored in my head instead of on paper, It's the only way that I know how to do it and do it right, If someone was to lay out a blue print and say here build this, well there house would be a Outhouse...LOL But if someone sat down and said OK I would like to have this built like this and this to look like that, OK I can do this and make it look good and it would be built straight and strong and even up to code, I was raised building and remodeling houses and My Dad and my uncle was the two that was my teachers and this is the way they would build also the only time pen and paper was used was to do an cost estimate other that that a big carpenter pencil a good tape measure and a good brain with lots of storage, It's the only way I know.:B
A sketch of an idea can be very deceiving once that idea is then made into reality. But take real measurements of the length & width, TOP view & SIDE view, leaving nothing out in the surrounding area, that would pertain to the idea. Then put those measurements to a scale drawing. It often brings out problems that the idea/sketch/ would have never seen until into the construction phase. Erasing a line or lines on a piece of paper, is a whole lot cheaper than tearing down/out walls, Flustered, or the extra labor & expense of time. A architect scale ( triangle/three sided different scale sizes), a 30/60/90 degree plastic triangle (Only one triangle with the three degrees), a reasonable size drawing pad, honest & true measurements & a kitchen table. Can and does bring an idea into a reality focus. With out ever lifting a hammer. Putting a idea together, threw ones mind & a pencil there on that paper, makes the whole job easer. Then when a person gets to the stage of assembly with a hammer & sweat. You have in reality, all ready done it once, there in that kitchen. Oh one more thing, even if a person did not buy the bigger pad & has to tape sheets together, use the biggest scale on that ruler 3"= 1' 0". The idea/s will jump of the paper, once you get to going. On the scale 3"=a foot, (12") if you need, oh say,,, 4' 7" the scale is thus big enough, right there on that ruler's end because at this larger size the 7" can be easly seen & thus marked.
Have you ever herd the expression,," figures do not lie, but lairs figure", or,," junk in, junk out". It means how careful you do it the better off & honest will be the results. I promise you this, if you are true to taking very careful measurements ~~~~of say the length & width of your inside floor. EVERYTHING, EVERYTHING just as a bird above would see it. (Its called a plan view) Draw this onto you sheet first. Then the equipment, walls,,,what ever on to this floor plan, you will save your self in the long run a LOT of time, money, problems, and anger & then you will know if you idea will fit into the space you have. Use this drawing as a plan of assembly, take it out there and tape it to a wall, use it to chalk out on the floor where every thing goes. You will find it rewarding, and it WILL give you further ideas just by looking it over there on that kitchen table. My gosh Trucker sitting there is the whole Class C put together right there and you havent lifted a nail.
โDec-05-2010 10:28 PM
Harveyj wrote:Thank you,........No it's not an emergency exit, This old 79 did not have one to start with, But just in case, any one of the windows are big enough to climb out not counting the side windows on the overhead bunk and the rear window will still have enough room to climb out in the bath area and the bunk bed area, Would just have to break out the glass, Maybe with the good Lords will that will not come to pass.
First, let me say what a great job you are doing in bringing an older rig back to life.
I just finished reading the last few posts. That rear window that is going to be partially blocked......is that an emergency exit window?? I don't recall seeing another exit window in any of the pics..
If it is, you may want to re-think that wall.
Thanks for doing this "Blog"...fun to watch the progress.
โDec-05-2010 07:51 PM
โDec-05-2010 07:42 PM
โDec-05-2010 05:34 PM
oldtrucker63 wrote:
Glad to hear your RV is staying dry.
โDec-05-2010 05:22 PM
John H wrote:
Is the drawing above to scale ?
โDec-05-2010 05:04 PM
Biscuit1001 wrote:
Amazing work! Thank you so much for taking the time to post all the photos, seeing the progress really helps. My concern would be being able to see out of the back window enough to be street legal. Obviously I can't speak of what the laws are in your state, but here in CA it's illegal to have any windows tinted/blacked out that are necessary to drive safely.
Thanks again for sharing your work with us, you're quite an inspiration. I'm still waiting to start mine, though I did get a 12x20' tarp over my RV which has stopped the leaks (yahhh!).
โDec-05-2010 04:50 PM
โDec-05-2010 12:13 PM
โDec-05-2010 10:48 AM
โDec-05-2010 10:19 AM