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Valve extentions

BJean
Explorer
Explorer
Need valve extentions and wondering if ridged or braded on the inside rear would be best. Need to check and air without the trouble.
19 REPLIES 19

stripit
Explorer
Explorer
GizmosMom wrote:
We are looking at TPMS for our 26 foot Ford-450 Class C. Would a TPMS work with these valve systems? Thanks


Yes, I use the TST system on my stems without any issue. These are solid steel stems, no movement at all.
Stacey Frank
2016 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40AP
2019 Tesla Model X
2015 Cadillac SRX we Tow
1991 Avanti Convertible

Baja_Man
Explorer
Explorer
I use Tire Man solid brass extenders. Just installed, today, the Tire Tracker TT-500 TPMS. Easy install. Quick test ride and it appears to work great! I purchased the 10 sensor set: 6 for motorhome, 2 for tow dolly, and 2 for toad or boat, depending on which is being towed.

Will be towing boat so 8 will be in use next week for a 800 mile trip.

Time will tell how long they last and how reliable they are. Lifetime warranty.
2023 GMC, 3500HD, Crew Cab, 6.6L Gas/6 Speed Auto, 4X4, Standard Bed; SRW
2011 Outback 250RS - Anniversary Edition
Equal-i-zer 10K

Bordercollie
Explorer
Explorer
Let's try to be clear: Extensions are some type of extender that screws onto the original rubber valve stem. They can unscrew with vibration underway and lose pressure . The weight of the device causes vibration of the rubber part of the original valve stem eventually causing it to crack and release tire pressure. "Solid brass or steel valve stems" are long enough and formed so that they protrude through RV beauty disks and allow easy access with any type of tire fill chuck in any position of wheel. IMHO they are needed on front wheels as well as rear dual wheels for easy valve access and pressure checking.
No frustrating release of pressure while checking it, no gymnastics required.
Some professional truck tire shops can make and install their own solid metal custom formed valve stems or install your Borg or Tire Man stems for you.

Harvey51
Explorer
Explorer
J-d wrote:
You can do it on the Cheap. Steel valves with air through caps. Carry your own "truck" air gauge and air chuck (the "straight" style) or depend on those who have them. For me, it's RVing, supposed to be easy and fun. I wanted a setup that anyone, anywhere, anytime, anyplace could service our tires.


Me, too. I used plastic extenders for the first several years, with no problem except one that didn't close after checking pressures. Luckily I had a spare extender with me.

With new tires, I got Costco to use their slightly longer rubber valve stems, left the darn wheel covers off and use the straight on gauge for the inner wheels and a similar air hose end. I keep ordinary valve caps on them, removing for every pressure check using a bit of plastic tubing on a pencil. I estimate 6 minutes to check the 6 wheels. No leaks.
2004 E350 Adventurer (Canadian) 20 footer - Alberta, Canada
No TV + 100W solar = no generator needed

jimintomah
Explorer
Explorer
I had Borg Dually Valves installed a couple of years ago on the rear duals and its been great. It costs about $20 per tire to install them and I think the valves were about $120. I would do it again in a minute.
Jim & Kathy & The Dog
2019 Winnebago Adventurer 35F

Dennis12
Explorer
Explorer
The extenders are nothing but trouble. If your wheels are mounted properly you should only need a good straight pressure gauge with a angle on the back side for pulling back to check pressures inside and out. Take your unit to a good tire shop and let them explain it to you. If you can stay away from the extensions you will be better off.
Dennis Hoppert

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
Bordercollie wrote:
It may not seem fair that chassis and motorhome manufacturers do not install solid metal stems but that is what it is!!
And Monaco had all of the stems mounted the same way regardless of which side of the tire/rim would face out. Great for them but a pain for the user.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

Bordercollie
Explorer
Explorer
To worry about spending $200 on solid metal custom formed valve stems installed on a $50K motorhome seems illogical. A tire failure, 500 miles from home, with damage to the underside of the rig and possible loss of control with injury to your loved ones and others on the road can spoil your trip or your life. Adding a cheap extension to original rubber valve stem can lead to sudden air loss with above consequences. It may not seem fair that chassis and motorhome manufacturers do not install solid metal stems but that is what it is!!

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
GizmosMom wrote:
We are looking at TPMS for our 26 foot Ford-450 Class C. Would a TPMS work with these valve systems? Thanks


Yes they will work just fine, The Tireman website states that they will and they do.

I have a TPMS system on mine and they work perfectly.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
GizmosMom wrote:
We are looking at TPMS for our 26 foot Ford-450 Class C. Would a TPMS work with these valve systems? Thanks


Yes.

I think you'll find some discussion, perhaps on the suppliers' web pages. A TPMS "cap" isn't much heavier than a metal Air-Through.

I had our original tires balanced after installing BORG valves on the rear and new metal valves on the fronts and spare. From a theory standpoint, we should re-balance. Personally, I don't think the metal valves we use on fronts and spare is enough heavier than a rubber valve with a brass core, to require balancing. The custom rear valves have some heft to them, but we mount them opposite each other. So for front and rear, I believe that if we mark the tire and rim so they go back the way they came off, leave balance weights in place, and match marks on re-mounting, we're OK not balancing just because of the new valves.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

GizmosMom
Explorer
Explorer
We are looking at TPMS for our 26 foot Ford-450 Class C. Would a TPMS work with these valve systems? Thanks
Marilyn w/ Joe, 2016 Class C Sunseeker 2430 SF, often pulling a Ranger bass boat. Traveling with Trigger
Smudge & Gizmo are waiting at the Rainbow Bridge

stripit
Explorer
Explorer
Imichabod has it correct. I went throught the exact same thing, trying to check air pressures in the inside duals and had a heck of a time. I went and bought the one piece steel extender, made checking easier but a day later I had two flat inside dual tires! Not Good. Could not get them to stop leaking. Went and purchased on line the new valve stems that are built with quality, and made the checking and adding of air a snap. Tire Man out of California was easy to deal with, sent the stems quickly and I took the rig to Discount Tire for the install. No more leaks, and I'm very pleased with the stems.
Stacey Frank
2016 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40AP
2019 Tesla Model X
2015 Cadillac SRX we Tow
1991 Avanti Convertible

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
Extensions are popular because they are cheap but more likely to leak. The Borg valves are excellent giving full access for airing tires.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
BJean wrote:
Just checked tires and inside tire is flat. This means that I will get ext today. Bummer


You found why we're so passionate about having good valves and good access for checking and airing up.

Actually, you're very fortunate that you got into this discussion and finding the flat this way.

Any flat is vexing. An RV blowout can be disastrous. That steel belt flailing around can cause thousands in damage, cripple the RV, create fire risks (broken LPG lines) and more.

We had braided extenders on our first Class C, connected to steel valve stems. We didn't have actual problems, but added air more often than we do now. (Now, BTW, is about twice a year!) Some braided extenders are "airless." They have a core that doesn't open the core of the actual tire valve till you press a gauge or air chuck onto it. That isn't a bad approach, but one-piece valves are still the best.

You can do it on the Cheap. Steel valves with air through caps. Carry your own "truck" air gauge and air chuck (the "straight" style) or depend on those who have them. For me, it's RVing, supposed to be easy and fun. I wanted a setup that anyone, anywhere, anytime, anyplace could service our tires.

I, by the way, was a holdout. We have the Ford wheels with eight small "hand holes" and Dicor stainless simulators over them. It took me half an hour to check tires, and it called for one or two more hands than GOD gave me. I was sick and tired of getting dirty and angry doing a simple task. Now, I can use any gauge, any hose, and in minutes I confirm they don't need air again.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB