Water Heater Element

[grannyapple3]

We have an Atwood 10 gallon elec/gas water heater. We are on like our 4th element in probably 2 years. We make sure tank is full before turning the electric switch on but we are going through these things like crazy. Any ideas why we are constantly burning the elements up???

Thank you

[tropical36]

grannyapple3 wrote:
We have an Atwood 10 gallon elec/gas water heater. We are on like our 4th element in probably 2 years. We make sure tank is full before turning the electric switch on but we are going through these things like crazy. Any ideas why we are constantly burning the elements up???

Thank you

Are you normally in one place for long periods of time and if so, what's the voltage? Also what is the voltage rating on the replacement units and I would like seeing at least 130vac for having some longevity.
These things usually last next to forever, unless without water or in an air pocket, so would always run a little water through the tank, if sitting without use for long periods and before turning it on.

[cdl2]

number7....if the element is on all the time wouldn't the relief valve open?

OP....I'd check the watts of the original element compared to what you're putting in now.

[numberseven]

There are only two things that will burn up an element and show a hole.
First: is not enough water but sounds like you have looked at that.

Second: The system has a "T" stat that controls the temp and this switches a 12 volt relay on and off to control the 120 volts to the element. If the thermostat is stuck closed or if the relay is stuck closed, you will have power on the element all the time and destroy it.

[rgatijnet1]

If the tank is NOT flushed of all debris and sediment when the heating element is changed, it will cause the heating element to fail sooner.

[grannyapple3]

jtfcons wrote:
Just a thought, but there may be an air lock preventing an empty tank from filling fully, so I would turn on a hot water faucet and make sure a full flow of water is achieved before declaring that the tank is full.

Also, when not in use, I keep a piece of tape over the 120VAC switch in an off position. This ensures that I don't accidently leave it on and hook up 120V power even for a second.

We do run the farthest away faucet until a steady flow/no more air and we do also tape our switch as it is in a very bad place where it can be accidentally bumped

[grannyapple3]

crasster wrote:
By any chance do you keep water in the heater when parked for period of time that could accumulate lime buildup on the element?

Also do you ever run the tank empty where the element would be allowed to heat without water around it?

Water heater is emptied out when stored

[grannyapple3]

Chris Bryant wrote:
When you install it, are you making sure the loop winds up vertical, and not horizontal?

No. It only screws in one way?? I am like Doug I guess and maybe not understanding what you mean???

[grannyapple3]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
How are you determining elements are BAD?

Mine Atwood 10 gallon elec/gas is 10 yrs old and same OEM element.

Only reason for them to burn out is energized w/o enough water to completely submerge them

Our first notice is we don't have hot water and in trouble shooting and pulling the element out is is always burnt in two or a hole burnt in it. We have also checked it with an ohm meter

[jtfcons]

Just a thought, but there may be an air lock preventing an empty tank from filling fully, so I would turn on a hot water faucet and make sure a full flow of water is achieved before declaring that the tank is full.

Also, when not in use, I keep a piece of tape over the 120VAC switch in an off position. This ensures that I don't accidently leave it on and hook up 120V power even for a second.

[crasster]

By any chance do you keep water in the heater when parked for period of time that could accumulate lime buildup on the element?

Also do you ever run the tank empty where the element would be allowed to heat without water around it?

[Chris_Bryant]

dougrainer wrote:

Chris Bryant wrote:
When you install it, are you making sure the loop winds up vertical, and not horizontal?

OK Chris, I will play. HOW and WHY would that be a factor? How would you make sure it is either? Unless it is a OLD 4 bolt in system, it would be difficult to thread it in and make sure of the orientation. I would suspect they are NOT using Atwood parts. Doug

Doug, that's how I have been taught by the factory training. If you look at the element, you will see it is indexed by the writing- easy to align it correctly.

If the loop is korizontal, trash short the element.

[dougrainer]

Chris Bryant wrote:
When you install it, are you making sure the loop winds up vertical, and not horizontal?

OK Chris, I will play. HOW and WHY would that be a factor? How would you make sure it is either? Unless it is a OLD 4 bolt in system, it would be difficult to thread it in and make sure of the orientation. I would suspect they are NOT using Atwood parts. Doug

[Chris_Bryant]

When you install it, are you making sure the loop winds up vertical, and not horizontal?

[Old-Biscuit]

How are you determining elements are BAD?

Mine Atwood 10 gallon elec/gas is 10 yrs old and same OEM element.

Only reason for them to burn out is energized w/o enough water to completely submerge them