Water heater question

[Jeff1953]

I have a 2005 Itasca Suncruiser 38R. I noticed that I had a leak in the supply line behind the water heater. In the process of removing the water heater, I accidentally broke some of the Styrofoam that surrounds it. I'm thinking of just going ahead and replacing it, since it's dated 2002. Before I do, however, I was wondering what material they use in the water heaters? Is it aluminum? If so, I may not need to replace the entire unit if I can repair the Styrofoam. I may go ahead and replace the electric element if I decide to keep it, to avoid having to remove it again in the near future. the model is Atwood GCH10A-4E. It has the heat exchanger built into it. Has anyone done this or is it just better to go ahead and get a new unit? Thanks in advance.

[DrewE]

SailingOn wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:
I also replaced the 1500 watt element with a 375 watt one (1500 at 240 volts = 375 at 120) so I do not trip 30 amp park breakers as quickly.

You've confused me there.
"watts is watts",
watts are the same regardless of voltage, no?
AD5GR

For a heating element rated at 1500W at 240V, but operated at 120V, 375 W is the correct power consumption. This is a valid application of Ohm's law.

1500W at 240V means a current of 6.25A, and so the element has a resistance of 38.4 Ohms. At 120V, that means a current of 3.125A flows, and so the power consumed is 375W, one-quarter of that consumed at 240V. A 1500W 120V element would have a resistance one-quarter that of the 240V element.

[Jeff1953]

Well, just to post a resolution, I've decided to go ahead and purchase a whole new unit, as suggested by Old-Biscuit. When I thought it through, by the time I replace things on the old unit, I still have a 17 year old water heater with a new tank. BTW, if anyone is interested, the best price I found for my particular tank (GCH10A-4E) was on bestconverter.com. They were $80 cheaper, even when including the shipping, than anyone else, including Ebay.

[SailingOn]

wa8yxm wrote:
I also replaced the 1500 watt element with a 375 watt one (1500 at 240 volts = 375 at 120) so I do not trip 30 amp park breakers as quickly.

You've confused me there.
"watts is watts",
watts are the same regardless of voltage, no?
AD5GR

[Old-Biscuit]

Jeff1953 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
WHY are you looking at replacing the tank?

Is the tank leaking from any place?
Styrofoam is JUST an insulating jacket........spray foam the missing area

That 4E model began production in late 2003 and is still the current production model for combo units...yours just has the 'heat exchanger' tube

Being the current production model.......all parts are available


Styrofoam cover can be replaced
Top half.....Atwood 91239
Bottom half....Atwood 91238

Tank...Atwood 91028


Other parts

The only reason I was thinking of replacing the tank was to make things easier. I saw that the Styrofoam was available, along with other parts. I was just thinking that, with the tank being 17 years old, maybe I should replace it while I had everything out and not have to mess with it again. Plus it already comes with some of the things I was thinking of replacing (element, pressure valve) in my current tank before I reinstall it. I haven't made a decision yet.

In that case ......buy a new complete water heater (tank, controls, door, jacket etc)
Silly to just purchase tank and have old burner/gas valve/controls.
Plus the time/effort in tear old apart and rebuilding old (gaskets/rings to attach tank to draw pan etc)
NEW GCH10A-4E

[wa8yxm]

Jeff1953 wrote:
The tank number appears to be 91028. Would you know if that is the tank you installed? Does it have the built in heat exchanger that uses the RV's cooling system to heat the water? If so, they still have the on Ebay for $200. Can you tell me what new mounting hardware it had? Does it have the black face plate that screws onto the water heater compartment? Thanks for your help.

I do not know if that is the tank and no. It does not have teh heat exchanger you cite. Electric/propane only.

[Jeff1953]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
WHY are you looking at replacing the tank?

Is the tank leaking from any place?
Styrofoam is JUST an insulating jacket........spray foam the missing area

That 4E model began production in late 2003 and is still the current production model for combo units...yours just has the 'heat exchanger' tube

Being the current production model.......all parts are available


Styrofoam cover can be replaced
Top half.....Atwood 91239
Bottom half....Atwood 91238

Tank...Atwood 91028


Other parts

The only reason I was thinking of replacing the tank was to make things easier. I saw that the Styrofoam was available, along with other parts. I was just thinking that, with the tank being 17 years old, maybe I should replace it while I had everything out and not have to mess with it again. Plus it already comes with some of the things I was thinking of replacing (element, pressure valve) in my current tank before I reinstall it. I haven't made a decision yet.

[Old-Biscuit]

WHY are you looking at replacing the tank?

Is the tank leaking from any place?
Styrofoam is JUST an insulating jacket........spray foam the missing area

That 4E model began production in late 2003 and is still the current production model for combo units...yours just has the 'heat exchanger' tube

Being the current production model.......all parts are available


Styrofoam cover can be replaced
Top half.....Atwood 91239
Bottom half....Atwood 91238

Tank...Atwood 91028


Other parts

[Jeff1953]

DFord wrote:
Both of these links claim to be selling inner tanks for the 10 gallon Atwood water heater you have. Neither one comes with the black metal face.

https://rvpartsexpress.com/product/atwood-water-heater-10-gallon-replacement-inner-tank-for-gch10a-4...

https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-91060-Water-Heater-Service/dp/B00N4ZFBV6/

Be sure to replace the relief valve. The foam insulation is no big deal, you could use some spray foam to fill the gap.

I saw both of those when I was looking for the part. It doesn't look exactly like the front of mine, but I know that they sometimes use stock photos and not the actual part photo. The tank appears to come with a new pressure relief valve, along with the heating element and the wiring box on the back of the element.

[DFord]

Both of these links claim to be selling inner tanks for the 10 gallon Atwood water heater you have. Neither one comes with the black metal face.

https://rvpartsexpress.com/product/atwood-water-heater-10-gallon-replacement-inner-tank-for-gch10a-4...

https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-91060-Water-Heater-Service/dp/B00N4ZFBV6/

Be sure to replace the relief valve. The foam insulation is no big deal, you could use some spray foam to fill the gap.

[Jeff1953]

wa8yxm wrote:
My 2005 Atwood developed leaks, about 100 of 'em (pin hole size) and I was able to replace JUST THE TANK.. I also replaced the 1500 watt element with a 375 watt one (1500 at 240 volts = 375 at 120) so I do not trip 30 amp park breakers as quickly .

You can just (As someone said) tape or if you have glue that does not "Eat" the stuff gule it back in place

New tank came with new insulation. new element, New mounting hardware. everythign I needed about 200 bucks as I recall but.. that memory is old.

The tank number appears to be 91028. Would you know if that is the tank you installed? Does it have the built in heat exchanger that uses the RV's cooling system to heat the water? If so, they still have the on Ebay for $200. Can you tell me what new mounting hardware it had? Does it have the black face plate that screws onto the water heater compartment? Thanks for your help.

[wa8yxm]

My 2005 Atwood developed leaks, about 100 of 'em (pin hole size) and I was able to replace JUST THE TANK.. I also replaced the 1500 watt element with a 375 watt one (1500 at 240 volts = 375 at 120) so I do not trip 30 amp park breakers as quickly .

You can just (As someone said) tape or if you have glue that does not "Eat" the stuff gule it back in place

New tank came with new insulation. new element, New mounting hardware. everythign I needed about 200 bucks as I recall but.. that memory is old.

[Old-Biscuit]

Atwood uses an aluminum tank

Styrofoam is just an insulation that surrounds the tank

Element is a 120V AC 1400W 'standard' water heater element
Located under the protective cover on backside of tank
Requires a thin-walled 1 1/2" socket to unscrew the element for removal
New element/new gasket (most any hardware store)

The DC/AC Relay that triggers the 120V AC to the element is under that cover also.

SO remove the DC Fuse for water heater AND open the 120V AC circuit breaker before removing the cover

[rgatijnet1]

I believe the Atwood water heater tank is aluminum. As far as repairing the styrofoam(?) perhaps you can use a can of spray foam available at Home Depot. Use the spray foam for around windows since it fills the gap but does not expand and pushing things apart.

[Cobra21]

You should be able to duct tape the styrofoam back in place. It is just insulation for the tank which is most likely stainless steel. I wouldn't replace the water heater till it's bad. The electric heating elements do work nice in the tank.
Brian