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Class A vs Class C maintenance/repair costs?

Aden949
Explorer
Explorer
My wife and I are in the market for our first RV. We're torn between the two styles. I feel as though the class A is a better fit for our family but my concern is the increased costs to maintain and repair it vs a class C.

I've heard from some that maintenance costs are comparable but the repairs are much higher on class A.

Is this true? Are class A's significantly more when it comes to repairs? I'm sure make and models will vary but we're looking at two similarly priced vehicles. One A and one C. Both 2008, same mileage, and the same price.

Any insight you can provide would be much appreciated.

Sean
23 REPLIES 23

AJR
Explorer
Explorer
Had a class A gasser. Now a class C. The class C costs me less.

Plus it has air bags and three doors to get out of it. Also the sun donโ€™t shine in my face all mid-day going south. The cab over takes care of that for free.

I forgot to mention as you get older two steps to get in and out are better the four or five.
2007 Roadtrek 210 Popular
2015 GMC Terrain AWD

Rick_Y
Explorer
Explorer
I don't have first hand kinowledge but I would guess that the cost of replacing a windshield for a Class C and an A with a single windshield would be substantial. Of course, this, hopefully, is not a frequent occurrence and good insurance could quite likely mitigate this.
Rick & Karen
2017 Hideout 177LHS travel trailer
2021 Ford Ranger w/tow package, named "Lil Toe"

Estu inteligenta, kaj parolu Esperanton

ol__yeller
Explorer II
Explorer II
garyemunson wrote:
If the Class C is built on the Ford chassis, the front seat passenger will not have much legroom. Annoying since most RV travel is for long distances.


Not true for ALL Class Cs on Ford chassis. My 2008 Aspect 26A was quite comfortable for me at 6'1". There was even room to recline the seatback with the slide in.
I am NOT a mechanic although I do play one in my garage!

DRTDEVL
Explorer
Explorer
The tire comments are spot on, for the most part. I was able to purchase tires for my Class C (215-85R16 LRE) for about $80/ea this year. When I bought tires for my old Class A DP, the cheapest I could find in an American brand (Firestone; I don't trust Samson Chinese tires on that large of a vehicle) was just over $200/ea, and that as 5 years ago.

That's by far your largest cost differential between the two.
Resurrecting an inherited 1980 Minnie Winnie 20RG from the dead after sitting since 1998..

Rick_Jay
Explorer II
Explorer II
Aden949,

If you told us a bit more about your family dynamics and your intended use for the motorhome, we could give you some more targeted advice.

We were a family of 6 and our Class A gasser was a perfect fit for our needs...still is after almost 14 years of ownership. But we did our research for 2 years before purchasing. We started looking at small hybrids to tow behind our Honda Odyssey and ended up with a 36' Class A towing our Honda Odyssey. But the research paid off. We bought the right rig the first time.

As for costs, the first thing I'll ask is "How handy are you?" Can you do simple maintenance to your vehicles and around the house? Do you call a repairman to hang a picture on the wall? RV repair costs are generally pretty expensive. They see an RV pull in and the $$$ signs light up in their eyes just like in the cartoons. But if you can do basic things yourself, then you're WAY ahead of the game.

Doing a tune-up on our gas Class A is not really anymore difficult than on our cars. Or more expensive, for that matter. But I do almost all of my own work.

I will say that for passengers, our Class A has great views out the front and the sides compared to the Class C's. From a driving perspective, the Class A might seem to be a bit more intimidating, but you get used to that pretty quickly. The view & visibility out that windshield is pretty nice.

A few people made some tire comments earlier. Take those with a grain of salt. You'll find folks saying you have to replace the tires after 5 years regardless of mileage. Well, if you take care of them, you should be able to get 10 years out of a quality tire. Know your weights and proper pressures and don't roll down the road without checking your pressures. I got 12 years out of our first set without an issue and they looked fine when they came off. The 6 new tires (on 22.5" rims) were about $2,400 including taxes and any other fees they tack on. More than an E-450? Sure, but I have over 3,000 lbs. cargo carrying capacity on a 2 slide, 36' motorhome. So, you sometimes have to pay a bit more for the needs of your family.

The traditional wisdom is that Class C's are better for families and Class A's are better for couples. While that might have been true a couple of decades ago, there are many floorplans available on all platforms nowadays which blurs the distinction and advantages/disadvantages are not so clear cut.

Tell us a bit more about your family (number & ages of children, pets) and the type of travel you expect to do (short term (a week or two) trips or long term (2 weeks or more)), do you plan to always have hookups (holding tank size not too important in that case) or occasionally be in campgrounds which don't have water or sewer connections (holding tank size is VERY important).

Lastly, check out various floorplans. When you get right down to it, the floorplan is probably the most important consideration. Make sure it is functional for your needs. Make sure there is plenty of storage. If the unit has slides (which it probably does) make sure that access to key areas such as sink, stove, kitchen drawers, etc. in not hampered by the slide being in. If you stop at a rest stop, you most likely cannot put the slide out to gain access. Just something to think about.

Good Luck in your search. Keep asking questions! ๐Ÿ™‚

~Rick
2005 Georgie Boy Cruise Master 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (27-Angel since 2008), 1 girl (22), 2 boys (23 & 20).
2001 Honda Odyssey, Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.

happy2rv
Explorer
Explorer
I don't believe that generally speaking the costs of repair or maintenance of similarly sized class C vs class A are significantly different. As Drew E asked, which class C vs which class A? Size and weight make a huge difference. What types of maintenance and repair? I don't think C vs A is really the determining factor.

Quality of materials and construction along with previous care if its used are going to have the biggest impact on coach maintenance and repair. Size, loading, fuel type, and previous care if its used are probably the biggest factors in chassis maintenance and repair costs. Routine maintenance on diesels is almost always significantly more expensive. There are many advantages to diesel but lower maintenance costs is not one of them.

While there are some costs that MAY be reduced between most class C and many class A, the distinction of class C vs A is not generally what drives the cost reduction. Just for example, a Dynamax DX3 is a class C built on a diesel truck chassis. This class C will likely have comparable repair and maintenance costs to a class A diesel pusher. However, shorter lighter class C units will have some lower maintenance costs especially when it comes to tires. You generally pay for the reduced tire cost in ride quality and lower load capacity.

As most have already suggested, having owned both a short class C and multiple class A units, my experience has been most dealerships and car centric garages will not work on even the shortest of class C RVs if they aren't willing to work on a class A.

Personally, I would focus more on quality of the chassis and coach as well as what layout works for your family. Like most products, generally speaking, really "cheap" RVs will have more issues. I haven't researched motorhome chassis in a long time and I'm not sure if you're talking new or used. For a long time Workhorse built a superior chassis, in my opinion. Pre-Workhorse Chevrolet P series chassis were almost always overloaded and had significant weaknesses, especially their brakes.
2018 Forrest River Salem Hemisphere 282RK - 2017 RAM 1500 TV

Previous RVs and TOADS
2004 Fleetwood Bounder 32W on WH W20
2000 Four Winds 5000 21RB
1986 27' Allegro
TOADS
2005 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD
2004 Suzuki Aerio
1988 Chevrolet Sprint

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
Having had both an A then a Class C I have found that the maintenance of the chassis is about the same with the cost being more for the Class A,parts and tires are a lot more expensive,also finding a shop to work on class C is easier than a Class A,at least that is what I have found. I do have a shop here that will handle both.

Aden949 wrote:
The class C we're looking at has Chevy Workhorse. The class A has the Ford chassis.


With the Class C on a Workhorse chassis you will have a much better upgraded chassis than the ones built on a non-workhouse chassis.

This Thread may be of help when looking at the Class C on a Chevy Chassis.

Good luck in your search,my choice that fit my needs was to go for the Class C.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

2gypsies1
Explorer
Explorer
.... just to give you an idea of who works on Class A:

http://rvservicereviews.com/StateList.asp?Submit=SHOW&sortby=location&state=&search=&CategoryID=4&Zi...
Full-Timed for 16 Years
.... Back in S&B Again
Traveled 8 yr in a 40' 2004 Newmar Dutch Star Motorhome
& 8 yr in a 33' Travel Supreme 5th Wheel

soren
Explorer
Explorer
azdryheat wrote:
Ford dealerships will work on Class A gassers with the Ford chassis and Ford V-10.
I know for a fact that many Ford dealers will tell you they have no interest in working on an E chassis class C, much less a class A.

Aden949
Explorer
Explorer
The class C we're looking at has Chevy Workhorse. The class A has the Ford chassis.

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
Aden949 wrote:
Are repair costs comparable? For example, engine repair? A vs C


What class A chassis and what class C chassis?

The Ford F53 chassis and E series chassis use closely related engines (variants of the 6.8L V10) and I think the exact same transmission, so repair costs for those are certainly comparable. A diesel pusher or a Sprinter chassis, for example, are rather different (and both generally more costly to repair when repairs are needed, though perhaps for different reasons).

The chances of needing extensive engine or transmission repair if you keep up with basic maintenance are pretty slim these days, in general. It's not like motorhomes typically accumulate hundreds of thousands of miles.

doxiemom11
Explorer II
Explorer II
We have been full-time for over 7 yrs in our used class A with F53 ford chassis.( 10 yrs old when purchased). Our biggest expense was new tires when we got it. Since then, the things we have had to repair were house things, like new circuit boards, furnace motor etc, vent covers, a few plumbing parts, thermostat, AC relay etc. Hubby does our oil changes and minor repairs. We haven't had any big issues to take care of. Total spent over 7+ years not counting the tires - maybe $1,000 at most.

Aden949
Explorer
Explorer
Are repair costs comparable? For example, engine repair? A vs C

Artum_Snowbird
Explorer
Explorer
There is certainly lots to consider, and if you base your choice on maintenance costs, you are missing a lot of differences. Class A your front seats are part of your living area. Class A you have a single front door, class C you have three doors. Class C you sometimes get an overcab bed, Class A's you can get a drop down bed in some.
Mike
2012 Winnebago Impulse Silver 26QP
2005 16.6 Double Eagle
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK
previously Snowbird Campers,
Triple E Motorhome and Fifth Wheel