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Cyclone Pool Blower to winterize RV?

lordnorth
Explorer
Explorer
I have a Cyclone pool blower (Used to install liners and blow out air lines)

I was wondering if anyone has used one successfully on their RV. It is a very low pressure, high volume blower -- not a compressor.

Because of that I'm wondering if the flow loss going from 1 1/2" to 3/4" is going to make it useless. I think it runs about 6psi normally.

Prior to this I have been winterizing with Anti-Freeze very successfully, but I would like to use the RV for Skiing this year, and would like to be able to skip the Anti-Freeze.

Thanks!
-Chris
10 REPLIES 10

RinconVTR
Explorer
Explorer
lordnorth wrote:
I figured it out. I had left the lines to the hot water tank open, so I think the little bit of water left in there was just kind of enough to obstruct the openings.

I never had trouble overcoming the head.. The water GUSHED out when I first started, I just couldn't seem to get the last little bit out.

Closed off the water heater and it was blowing a good strong stream of completely dry air.

I think a lot of people don't understand what I'm using. They are thinking leaf blower or air mattress inflator or something similar. This is the machine that pool companies use when they install the liner (suck the air out from underneath) or winterize the lines (think how much water is being blown out of a 2 inch line with a 40'run..)

Here is a link, just in case anyone was interested. I think it did a pretty good job and definitely no worries about over pressurizing the system...

https://www.amazon.com/Cyclone-Vacuum-Blower-3-HP/dp/B004BNR5DC


I am personally very familiar and knew exactly what you were trying to make work.

Please do not kid yourself...they are indeed a glorified high leaf blower.

lordnorth
Explorer
Explorer
I figured it out. I had left the lines to the hot water tank open, so I think the little bit of water left in there was just kind of enough to obstruct the openings.

I never had trouble overcoming the head.. The water GUSHED out when I first started, I just couldn't seem to get the last little bit out.

Closed off the water heater and it was blowing a good strong stream of completely dry air.

I think a lot of people don't understand what I'm using. They are thinking leaf blower or air mattress inflator or something similar. This is the machine that pool companies use when they install the liner (suck the air out from underneath) or winterize the lines (think how much water is being blown out of a 2 inch line with a 40'run..)

Here is a link, just in case anyone was interested. I think it did a pretty good job and definitely no worries about over pressurizing the system...

https://www.amazon.com/Cyclone-Vacuum-Blower-3-HP/dp/B004BNR5DC

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
lordnorth wrote:
valhalla360 wrote:
For blowing out lines, volume not pressure is the primary consideration.

As long as the 6PSI can overcome the head enough to get the water starting to move out of the fixtures, it should work fine.


Thanks... that's what I thought too.

I tried it this morning and at first I got a really good slug of water out of each of the faucets. Then I got blowing and mist -- Good signs.

But then I got to where the pipes just sort of gurgled -- Not a lot, but enough to know that there was still some moisture in there.

Going to try to modify my connections and I did forget to isolate my water heater. See if I make out any better this afternoon and can avoid buying a compressor.


Sounds like you aren't getting enough pressure to overcome the head and then air bubbles just slowly gurgle thru.

If it's not getting a clear flow of air, there is likely too much water left and you will have to try other methods.

One thought: can you apply the air at the fixture so you are pushing the water down hill to get most out and then go back and do a good blow to get any residual?

Houses are not really a good comparison as it's typical for them to have plumbing going from the basement to the first or second floor with 10-20' of head to overcome. In an RV, it would be rare to have more than 5' of head to overcome.

Also most people use compressors because... they have a compressor.

Regardless, don't leave it just gurgling as that means there is water still in the lines.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

RinconVTR
Explorer
Explorer
People who blow out homes and residential irrigation for example use very large tank compressors. Ask them why.

6psi thru a highly restrictive end points of less than 2gpm doesn't work very well.

Hey, I'm not here to sell you on a new air compressor. I simply know as a matter of fact, low pressure and high volume is not preferred and may have bad results.

mgirardo
Explorer
Explorer
I think the 6 PSI will get the bulk of the water out, but I don't think it will get all of it out. After the bulk of the water is gone, 6 PSI won't be able to push out what remains. I usually blow out our lines with 35 - 40 PSI. On our 42' TT, it takes about 6 minutes to get the bulk of the water out, then another 5 or so minutes of it misting before only air comes out.

What is causing the gurgling will be enough to cause a fix to crack. If you plan to use RV Anti-freeze, then I wouldn't worry about it, the anti-freeze will push the water out. If you aren't using anti-freeze, it will be a problem.

-Michael
Michael Girardo
2017 Jayco Jayflight Bungalow 40BHQS Destination Trailer
2009 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS Class C Motorhome (previously owned)
2006 Rockwood Roo 233 Hybrid Travel Trailer (previously owned)
1995 Jayco Eagle 12KB pop-up (previously owned)

lordnorth
Explorer
Explorer
valhalla360 wrote:
For blowing out lines, volume not pressure is the primary consideration.

As long as the 6PSI can overcome the head enough to get the water starting to move out of the fixtures, it should work fine.


Thanks... that's what I thought too.

I tried it this morning and at first I got a really good slug of water out of each of the faucets. Then I got blowing and mist -- Good signs.

But then I got to where the pipes just sort of gurgled -- Not a lot, but enough to know that there was still some moisture in there.

Going to try to modify my connections and I did forget to isolate my water heater. See if I make out any better this afternoon and can avoid buying a compressor.

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
For blowing out lines, volume not pressure is the primary consideration.

As long as the 6PSI can overcome the head enough to get the water starting to move out of the fixtures, it should work fine.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

RinconVTR
Explorer
Explorer
Pool lines are 1-1/2 or 2" Easy to blow out with high volume and low pressure.

Water lines not so much.

If you're looking at using air, you do in fact need an air compressor pushing anywhere from 20-60psi to really blow the lines.

I blow mine out multiple times after Fall weekend stays...then in Nov pump anti-freeze thru and into the drains for the consistent cold and zero-use period.

janechucknicode
Explorer
Explorer
janechucknicodemus wrote:
Heck if you are in Fl. Don't worry about winterizing,,, How cold does' it get 55-60?
C

But then again, PA.. Just drain out all the water before you leav for FL. ๐Ÿ˜‰ 6 pds is just about right..

janechucknicode
Explorer
Explorer
Heck if you are in Fl. Don't worry about winterizing,,, How cold does' it get 55-60?
C