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dual battery install, and a roof coating ?

Jonnygsx
Explorer
Explorer
Looking for assistance on a few questions. I have a 98 24lz fleetwood prowler travel trailer. I am trying to figure out how to install two 6v GC batteries. The trailer originally had one group 24 battery installed near the tongue. On my particular trailer there is a large plastic cover over the whole front end including the propane tanks. There looks to be plenty of room on either side of the propane tanks to fit a battery. But there is only plywood wall right there nothing solid to mount them to. If anyone has seen any similar installs or has any ideas i'd appreciate it.

Next im planning to install a 120watt solar panel. My roof is not leaking but it doesnt look to be in the best condition (this trailer is new to me but has seen its use). I was going to coat the roof with some roof sealant. Now would it be a better idea to coat the roof and then install the solar, or should I put all the brackets and wiring up and then coat over them?

Not the best picture but this is looking behind the plastic cover on the front. You can see the black wall of the trailer and then the bottom "floor" of the cover. Obviously there is not strength in the plastic so I feel like something would have to be mounted into the wall, perhaps some kinda tray to hold the battery? But thats still a lot of weight on particle board...

13 REPLIES 13

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
Also don't get locked into thinking the batteries have to be side by side. I mounted two on a popup tongue and they were about 18 inches apart and one was almost a foot higher and turned 90 degrees. Just find a place to set it, add a plywood floor and make a slightly longer cable to hook them up.
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
Yes I put Herculiner on my RV roof when it had started leaking and was about 14 years old. Yes it sealed all the leaks, and living in it full time, the odor it left behind made me think that the solvent that is applied with the herculiner did soak into the roof coating, then into the RV, and left behind a water tight sealant. It has been 2.5 years since I applied the Herculiner. THere where some cracks around my shower skylight, but I was able to seal them with a thicker coat of Herculiner. I guess I should have put it on thicker where it would be moving, or the skylight is shrinking and growing at different rates than the surrounding roof structure.

All other areas of the roof, including the ladder have been trouble free for 2.5 years.

Herculiner has 101uses, including on shower floors in a prison, no place tougher than that! The best price I found was at JcWhitney.com and they gave me free shipping just because I asked for it. You can buy it in stock black, or extra cost white, red and gray. I picked white.

Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a

Porsche or Country Coach!



If there's a WILL, I want to be in it!



I havn't been everywhere, but it's on my list.

Kangen.com Alkaline water

Escapees.com

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Mounting batteries on the back bumper is a bad idea for all the reasons already mentioned.
I have mounted two batteries on the tongue of my trailer in an aluminum battery box. This keeps the batteries dry and also out of sight. As long as your tow vehicle can handle the extra tongue weight this is the best place to put them on a travel trailer.
Barney



2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Jonnygsx wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi Jonny,

In regards to the Herculiner at least one rv'er has used it for roof repair.

As to the batteries, placing them in a steel box would protect them. As to bounce that's news to me--and I do not believe it would a problem with modern batteries.


HA I would have never thought to use Herculiner. Is there any benefit to use that on a rubber roof. Cost wise it doesn't seem any cheaper than a liquid EPDM coating.

Hrm well now I am torn on the battery install location. My stock bumper is just 4" x 4" steel I believe. Is that strong enough to bolt a battery box to or would it need to be reinforced?

No, your stock bumper won't handle the load of 150 lbs. of batteries and box. You would have to install either brackets to the frame or a receiver with a platform that attaches to the receiver.

I wouldn't mount them on the back because you are changing the tongue weight and handling characteristics of the trailer. IMO, it's too much weight to hang back there and you already have a sturdy piece of framework in the front.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Jonnygsx
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi Jonny,

In regards to the Herculiner at least one rv'er has used it for roof repair.

As to the batteries, placing them in a steel box would protect them. As to bounce that's news to me--and I do not believe it would a problem with modern batteries.


HA I would have never thought to use Herculiner. Is there any benefit to use that on a rubber roof. Cost wise it doesn't seem any cheaper than a liquid EPDM coating.

Hrm well now I am torn on the battery install location. My stock bumper is just 4" x 4" steel I believe. Is that strong enough to bolt a battery box to or would it need to be reinforced?

westend
Explorer
Explorer
FYI, Herculiner and other coatings of that nature are available in white.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi Jonny,

In regards to the Herculiner at least one rv'er has used it for roof repair.

As to the batteries, placing them in a steel box would protect them. As to bounce that's news to me--and I do not believe it would a problem with modern batteries.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

full_mosey
Explorer
Explorer
Jonnygsx wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Coat the roof with Herculiner.

Then install the new battery bank at the rear bumper on a rack welded to the frame. Run #6 wire to the OEM connection or to the power center which ever is easier.


I assume you are messing with me now. Herculiner the black truck bed coating does not seem like a good plan.

Wow really? I read a few threads about how it was a very bad idea to install batteries on the rear bumper. I had had that thought too, but most of the threads said that is one of the bounciest spots on the trailer and would damage the batts over time. Also if you were to back into anything or to be rear ended in a wreck battery acid could be all over.


I can assure you PT is not messing with you. He just forgot you have a TT. That often happens when you don't have a sig or profile and also when the topic is in a general forum.

You may be interested to know that I switched to AGMs and now store the TT bank inside and under the dinette seat. The bank is now adjacent to the power center. This keeps charge wiring very short.

Take a look at my profile.

HTH;
John

Jonnygsx
Explorer
Explorer
Sorry double post.

Jonnygsx
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Coat the roof with Herculiner.

Then install the new battery bank at the rear bumper on a rack welded to the frame. Run #6 wire to the OEM connection or to the power center which ever is easier.


I assume you are messing with me now. Herculiner the black truck bed coating does not seem like a good plan.

Wow really? I read a few threads about how it was a very bad idea to install batteries on the rear bumper. I had had that thought too, but most of the threads said that is one of the bounciest spots on the trailer and would damage the batts over time. Also if you were to back into anything or to be rear ended in a wreck battery acid could be all over.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

Coat the roof with Herculiner.

Then install the new battery bank at the rear bumper on a rack welded to the frame. Run #6 wire to the OEM connection or to the power center which ever is easier.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

skipnchar
Explorer
Explorer
When I went to using two T105 Trojans I simply filled in my trailers A frame with 2" planking. It's worked well for over 80,000 towing miles.
2011 F-150 HD Ecoboost 3.5 V6. 2550 payload, 17,100 GCVWR -
2004 F-150 HD (Traded after 80,000 towing miles)
2007 Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer

US Govt survey shows three out of four people make up 75% of the total population

westend
Explorer
Explorer
You'll need to support a new battery holder with steel supports underneath. There is just too much weight for any type of attachment to a vertical wood wall. I'd suggest that you remove the bottom plastic piece of the enclosure, weld (or bolt) steel cross members onto the tongue and then replace the plastic shelf. That is the easiest way.
If it was me, I'd install a locking battery box and move the tanks forward on their own purpose built tank holder. In fact, that's just what I did.

Roof coating first, then module installation.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton