12V plug on Antenna Booster Wall Plate Constantly Active?

[RedRocket204]

Hi all.

This seems like a dumb question and I could easily test it but I store my TT a distance from my house and am unable test it and have a boondocking trip quickly approaching. On a RA-7296 WINEGARD, or similar looking wall plate with antenna booster and 12V, is the 12V plug energized even if the button is not pushed to On where the LED is lit?

I want to use the 12V plug without having the antenna booster on. I've had my TT for a number of years but have never used that 12V plug. I'm only planning to use a 12V USB plug in it to charge my phone at night and hoping the antenna booster does not have to be on using energy. I've tried doing a lot of searching but the search words are so common, I'm getting everything but an answer to my question. Wingard's site is also not giving me an answer.

Thanks for your help!

[SoundGuy]

bpounds wrote:
That button turns on a signal amplyfier. Doesn't matter where the magic happens.

Actually it does as earlier versions of the Sensar antenna were non-amplified which is why you can still buy a simple but amplified wall plate. Trailers sold these days with either a Sensar III or Sensar IV will come with a non-amplified wall plate as the preamp is in the antenna head itself so all that wall plate does is route 12 vdc up to the head. For those who want more signal gain or attenuation Winegard offers the SensarPro ... so yeah, it does matter. 😉

[bpounds]

That button turns on a signal amplyfier. Doesn't matter where the magic happens.

[RedRocket204]

Probably a bit of confusion as Winegard refers to the plate as a Signal Amplifier. There is a non-amplified version they also sell that says an amplified antenna is required. What is interesting is Winegard shows that backs of both plates and they look identical - http://www.winegard.com/kbase/uploads/WC-750%2009%20with%20Wingman.pdf

Winegard RA-7296 Wall Plate Amplifier wrote:
A +12 VDC VHF/UHF amplified wall plate with +12 VDC receptacle, cable
input jack and second set jack. White only. Use with Winegard non-amplified
Sensar TV antennas only (RV-5095 and RV-5090 only).

[SoundGuy]

bpounds wrote:
The button and the light are only for the signal booster.

That wall plate is not a signal booster as it has no electronics - when the button is pushed 12 vdc is routed to the cable connected to the antenna head atop the RV which is where any signal amplification occurs. When the button is not pushed in 12 vdc to the head is disconnected and the cable input is routed to the television instead of the antenna but again with NO signal boost of any kind. If you want that you want to replace that passive wall plate with an active one such as a Winegard SignalPro that does have the ability to amplify the signal. Yes, 12 vdc is always present on the cigarette lighter style outlet that's typically mounted on the wall plate.

[DutchmenSport]

Yes, it's hot all the time. We have a 12 volt electric refrigerator cooler we plug into it when we travel. Of course, the televisions are laid on the bed and the booster button (green light) is turned off. The plug works regardless. (keeps the little cooler-refrigerator running real nice! We could plug it into the cigarette lighters in the truck, but it just seems to be out of the way better when traveling in the camper.

[2112]

We run a small 12V fan with ours when overnighting at a rest stop. Ours is in the bedroom

[bpounds]

Best use for that socket is an auto style USB outlet. Ours lives there permanently and charges cell phones and tablets.

[RedRocket204]

wa8yxm wrote:
Outlet is also next to useless. fuse is small and wires are small so any kind of a load much beyond a map light or cell charger is going to be a "Pop-a-matic" for the fuse.

Yes, that will probably come down to the RV builder and if they used proper sized wiring and fuse for it.

[wa8yxm]

Outlet is always live less you blow the fuse. (or shut off 12 volt systems).

Outlet is also next to useless. fuse is small and wires are small so any kind of a load much beyond a map light or cell charger is going to be a "Pop-a-matic" for the fuse.

[RedRocket204]

Thank you both!

I figured as much that the 12V was statically hot but wasn't sure. As well, I had no idea of the amp draw from the booster if it were on so that is good to know it is a light amp draw.

I did find a Winegard pdf on the plate and said do not run more than a 7.5 amp draw through it. Recommendations are for 12AWG wiring to connect the DC.

Appreciate the answers!

[bpounds]

The button and the light are only for the signal booster. The socket remains hot all the time, with whatever voltage your batteries can supply. Whether it can run a C-pap I have no idea.

Also, I've tested it, and convinced myself that the signal booster pulls so little current, it won't make any tangible difference in how long you can boondock. I don't remember the current draw, but it was tiny. Of course, I fully understand saving every spec of power when you can. But don't sweat over it too much.

[Itchey_Feet]

I do not have a class C presently but I have used mine to run my c-pap while boon-docking in our TT. So ours is (hot) without the button being pushed.JMHO