60s VW Beetle towed vehicles

[Seniorfirsttime]

I am interested in any and all information concerning using a 1960s era (1965) VW Beetle as a towed vehicle. Pluses and minuses. Dos and don'ts. Thanks.

[wolfe10]

Correct. Non Super Beetles used a tow bar that attached to the axle tube. No axle tube on a Super Beetle.

[tatest]

Models before the Super Beetle used a special VW tow bar that connected to the front suspension assembly. Not a "regular" towbar, whatever that may mean; in that era, when cars had real bumpers, a lot of tow bars were bumper to bumper attachments, we used them to haul minor undrivable wrecks in, or to take junkers out to the yard.

[johnhicks]

Lizzie..._anyone_ can tow a riceburner.

[johnhicks]

I put about 150 pounds of lead ballast weights and the toolbox in the front of my '71 Bug; the squirreliness stopped and it didn't blow around near as much.

It was very easy to strip the nuts/studs holding the screen cover in. Ask me how I know....

Also, seals were known to start leaking if you put too much oil in.

Wish I still had the beast. It's the only car I ever had that never made me walk.

[nevadanick]

10 minutes to pull an engine ? What took you so long ? 🙂

[wolfe10]

lizzie wrote:
Wow! This is a really timely discussion for me. I had my '71 Super Beetle Convertible pulled out of storage last week and towed it to Florida to a restorer. I got his estimate today and am trying to decide whether or not to go forward with it. We presently tow a 24" TT but think that in a few years we will want a B+ or C- and might want to use the Bug as a toad. For the price of a first class restoration we could buy a late model small car with a/c and automatic transmission. I bought the car in 1979 from my first cousin, who bought it new. Three of our five children drove it to college. But is the restoration worth it? I am agonizing over this. lizzie

A Super Beetle has a completely different and much more sensitive front suspension than the earlier beetles and regular late model beetles.

No idea how it will tow-- I would ask those who have towed one with the McPhearson Strut front suspension before going forward with the idea of restoring it to tow.

[Tom_Barb]

J-Rooster wrote:
A buddy of when tows his 60's Beetle all four down with no problems.

It must be a Northwest thing, Our bugs just tow better. 🙂

[lizzie]

Wow! This is a really timely discussion for me. I had my '71 Super Beetle Convertible pulled out of storage last week and towed it to Florida to a restorer. I got his estimate today and am trying to decide whether or not to go forward with it. We presently tow a 24" TT but think that in a few years we will want a B+ or C- and might want to use the Bug as a toad. For the price of a first class restoration we could buy a late model small car with a/c and automatic transmission. I bought the car in 1979 from my first cousin, who bought it new. Three of our five children drove it to college. But is the restoration worth it? I am agonizing over this. lizzie

[Seniorfirsttime]

Thanks to all who replied to my VW tow questions. I think I have all I was looking for.

[Ivylog]

Ivylog wrote:
I learn how to pass in a 36 HP beetle... you lay back and when you think there's a hole coming up, you get a running start and turn off the AC IF it had one. I still use this technique and in the MH and I do not turn the AC off and it's a lot easier to see what's coming up. You run the bungee to the seat because the VW is so lite on the front.
A tow bar is only $100 and pins to the front axle lower torsion bar. I would be afraid of trying to put a "normal" tow bar that folds up as there is very little structure in the front of a beetle.

CG Dawson, I believe I answered his question and why: " You run the bungee to the seat because the VW is so lite on the front." Granted I did not feel it necessary to say "from the bottom of the steering wheel and you adjust it by where you position the seat".

[wolfe10]

Seniorfirsttimer wrote:
Wolfe, what are those instructions if you don't mind?

Tire pressure per sticker in glove box. Air them like other cars and it will handle VERY POORLY. Normally 10 PSI less in front than back.

Oil change every 3000 miles (remember, there is no oil filter!)-- and drop the screen and clean it. 30 wt unless it is really hot, then 40 wt. Oil door hinges with a couple of drops of oil.

Valve adjustment every 6000 miles. Chassis lube. Check front wheel bearing end play (push in/out at the top of the tire. If it clunks, you need to tighten it. Correct end play is just a little/just so there is more than zero.

Tune up (points, plugs, condenser) every 12,000 miles. Adjust brakes at the same time. Adjust clutch free-play.

Be sure that the steering box has gear lube in it. If leaking badly, you can pack it with grease. To access, remove the spare tire and then the small "D" shaped door (one phillips screw). You can also adjust the play in the box while you are there.

I am sure if I had my hands on it, I would remember the "rest of the story". A basic complete on one of these took me about 4 hours. But, I was young and fast. Can still do it/have all the tools, but no longer as young or as fast!

With proper care, they were a great car. If driven and not maintained, a real money pit.

[J-Rooster]

A buddy of when tows his 60's Beetle all four down with no problems.

[2112]

I can't answer your question but am happy to say I learned to drive in my mom's brand new 1970 Karmann Ghia convertible. I'm also happy she never found out 🙂

[Seniorfirsttime]

Wolfe, what are those instructions if you don't mind?