โJul-03-2016 04:56 AM
โJul-05-2016 07:25 AM
SoundGuy wrote:Wow - Haven't found that is Western Canada and I only carry 60' of 50A cord. ๐
True, and an argument that favours having the EMS wired in at the trailer rather than the campsite power post because it's also accounting for any voltage drop that may occur due to main service cable length. Here in Ontario where the runs can typically be 100' or more that's an important issue, not so much for those just running out the trailer's 25' cable to reach the post.
โJul-05-2016 07:07 AM
โJul-05-2016 07:05 AM
CA Traveler wrote:
For awhile I would pre check the pedestal. But with increased awareness of the PI HW50C I rarely pre check any more.
If there is a problem the HW50C will not connect the rig power. Otherwise voltage on a unloaded pedestal or even with ceramic heaters doesn't mean much because any load management voltage checking will all occur inside the rig where I have the remote. Low voltage is more likely on 30A and especially on 20A if not managed and a pre pedestal check isn't any significant help.
I plug in and check the voltage early in the setup process. So with any existing issue requiring another site is found early. However low voltage is one issue that often occurs later in the day and no amount of pre checking is going to uncover that problem.
โJul-05-2016 06:35 AM
โJul-05-2016 06:09 AM
pianotuna wrote:
Hi SoundGuy,
Let's pretend I'm going to plug in my RV at a 30 amp site.
First step I take a dogbone adapter that is 30 to 15 and plug it in.
Next step I plug a kill-a-watt meter into the dog bone 15 amp outlet. I note the voltage.
Next step I plug a polarity checker into the kill-a-watt.
Next step I unplug the polarity checker and plug in a 1500 watt heater.
Next step I turn on the heater full blast and check for voltage drop (I.E. Voltage drop under load). I note the voltage.
Finally, if everything looks good, I'll plug in my RV.
โJul-05-2016 05:28 AM
โJul-04-2016 09:24 PM
โJul-04-2016 08:44 PM
pianotuna wrote:
Hi SoundGuy,
Let's pretend I'm going to plug in my RV at a 30 amp site.
โJul-04-2016 07:40 PM
rockhillmanor wrote:
How many have of you have ever encountered an upside down outlet in a shore station
and had to improvise to get plugged in?
โJul-04-2016 07:35 PM
cbshoestring wrote:
Thanks for all the advice on autoformers...I think I will just stick with full hook ups at newer CG's. For now, we have made it ok conserving battery and using propane. Mr Coffee doesn't seem to mind the low voltage, so I tossed an extension under the trailer, and have been using an electric griddle for cooking. Both cheap enough to replace if I have to. The trailer will remain unplugged.
โJul-04-2016 07:12 PM
SoundGuy wrote:pianotuna wrote:
Hi rockhillmanor,
If you quote the whole statement it makes it clear that I always check the pedestal under load before I plug in.
Huh? :h That makes no sense ... in order to check a source supply under load you must first be plugged into that source so any load you're imposing yourself is reflected in any voltage drop created. :W
โJul-04-2016 12:09 PM
pianotuna wrote:
Hi rockhillmanor,
If you quote the whole statement it makes it clear that I always check the pedestal under load before I plug in.
โJul-04-2016 11:30 AM
rockhillmanor wrote:I've never come across high voltage. I've never come across incorrectly wired outlets. I have also not seen a bad neutral-
I love this statement when we start talking electrical protection for our RV's.
The ole "I have not seen it so it can't be there syndrome".
It is all relevant to HOW you RV.
I.E. The person who goes out once a year during a vacation, the occasional weekend warrior, snowird, full time. The MORE often you RV the more shore stations with problems you will encounter.
A full timer will stay at a whole lot more CG's in a year than the vacationer or weekend warrior. We use HUNDREDS of CG shore stations a year!
Here to tell you there are MANY that are wired wrong, missing ground wires etc. Not to mention the erratic and/or inappropriate electric coming into the CG's.
It's just a matter of time and happenstance that the other less traveled RV'ers will hit one of the same ones that we have that are wrong and can damage your RV.
I think it's a 'dis-service to the new Rv'ers who read this forum' to tell them that there are no shore stations that are wired wrong and that all electric coming into a CG is safe and that they don't need a surge protector and/or they don't need to check the pedestal before hooking up. Just saying.
โJul-04-2016 07:11 AM
โJul-04-2016 06:48 AM
SoundGuy wrote:For clarification I was referring to the voltage where the utility wiring ends. Usually when there is a low voltage problem its the CG wiring that's at fault.CA Traveler wrote:
If I saw 85 unloaded volts I would not plug in until the situation was fixed, boost transformer or not. Why invite trouble?
Most likely the utility is delivering in spec power which is 120V +-10 percent or a low of 108V.
I'm not so sure. That's what the spec dictates but I've run into so many situations where the voltage can't even make the minimal, most often during the hot summer months when the campground is full and it's power system (and the one feeding it) is loaded to the max with everyone running A/C. IAMICHABOD makes a good point (thanks BTW :B ) - if I continue to first check power with my Prime Products line meter dongle and do find a problem it certainly saves me the hassle of even bothering to drag out the main service cable and any necessary extensions - no sense if I'm not going to use it. :R My Progressive unit is calibrated to cut off incoming power to the trailer at 104 vac but personally I really start paying attention anytime it drops below ~ 110 vac because with my own load added that voltage could easily trigger my EMS's low cutoff voltage threshold of 104 vac. Just 85 vac is a non-starter as that's a sure sign the system is already stressed well beyond it's limits ... no way, no how would I ever consider plugging in at all. :E