Andersen WDH without chains

[Rangerman40]

Can you use the hitch by itself as an anti sway device if the weight distribution is not needed? I'm looking at a Ram with auto level rear air suspension and my camper is fairly small so I won't need the weight distribution but I would still like the anti sway capability of the ball. I've towed short distances without hooking up the chains on my current setup with no ill effects, but I was curious over the long term if it was advisable.

[Rangerman40]

mkirsch wrote:

Rangerman40 wrote:
I already own it for my current set up.....

Then set it up and use it. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain. It will ride better, and it will handle better.

The new RAM is a 1500 right? Factory receiver is limited to 500lbs of tongue weight before you need a WD hitch. That is a RECEIVER limit, not a truck limit.

If your trailer's tongue is over 500lbs, you need the WD hitch even if your truck has auto-level.

3500...... Hence the question. The class V hitch is good for 1800lb tongue weight which my trailer is nowhere near. I just want some sway control and don't need the weight distribution which is why I was wondering if I could get away without the chains. I already have the Anderson so I will continue to use it one way or another until I get a 5ver in a couple years.

[mkirsch]

Rangerman40 wrote:
I already own it for my current set up.....

Then set it up and use it. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain. It will ride better, and it will handle better.

The new RAM is a 1500 right? Factory receiver is limited to 500lbs of tongue weight before you need a WD hitch. That is a RECEIVER limit, not a truck limit.

If your trailer's tongue is over 500lbs, you need the WD hitch even if your truck has auto-level.

[ttavasc]

I also have a RAM 1500 with the auto-leveling suspension, a fairly small trailer (3750 GVWR) and am using the Andersen both for weight distribution and sway control. One of the things I like about the Andersen is that it is really easy to control the amount of weight distribution needed by simply tightening or loosening the chains. But in order to fine tune it, especially with the auto-leveling suspension you do need to hit the scales.

What I found with my set up is that with 500lbs of tongue weight it pulled about 200lbs off the front axle. With the default amount of compression on the bushings (per my manual this was 1/4" compression) it actually returned 280lbs to the front axle. So I ended up needing less tension on the chains than the default. The scale confirmed for me just how tight I needed to set the chains which I measure as compression on the red bushing. As others have indicated you do need a minimum amount of tension on the chains in order for the sway control to be effective.

Also, in addition to disabling the suspension when hitching up I would recommend that you measure the distance between the ground and the top of the coupler when the trailer is level. Then adjust the top of the ball to be slightly below that. This is contrary to what the install guide states, which is to set the ball 1.5-2" higher than level, but is appropriate with the auto-leveling suspension because once activated it will lift itself up to the normal ride height. If you set the ball higher to begin with now your trailer will be slightly nose high which can lead to instability and a poor towing experience.

[Rangerman40]

rexlion wrote:
Barney is right on the money. The chains hook to the ball shank, so when the trailer pivots it makes the ball shank pivot in its socket against the friction material. Without the chains, the ball will remain stationary (no pivot) and thus no friction to dampen sway.

If you are sure you don't need WD, don't bother buying the Andersen. You can just use a friction bar.

I already own it for my current set up.....

[Earl_E]

Like others are saying, you have to use the chains or it will accomplish nothing. Barney explains it well.

[rexlion]

Barney is right on the money. The chains hook to the ball shank, so when the trailer pivots it makes the ball shank pivot in its socket against the friction material. Without the chains, the ball will remain stationary (no pivot) and thus no friction to dampen sway.

If you are sure you don't need WD, don't bother buying the Andersen. You can just use a friction bar.

[old_guy]

call me over cautious if you want to but I wouldn't tow across the street with out fully hooking up my TT

[BarneyS]

Without using the chains, you are essentially towing just like a regular drawbar with a ball. There will be no anti sway effect at all if the chains are not connected. You may not need to tension them much but there must be enough to take all the slack out of them for the anti sway to work.
Barney

[ChooChooMan74]

The chains are all part of it. How big is your camper? My Roo 183 requires a WDH on my Ram because it has over 500 pounds of tongue weight.

[DutchmenSport]

As icanon stated above, try the set-up without the self-leveling activated. More than likely, you'll still see rear end squat. Even with the air bags leveling out the tow vehicle, the weight distribution is not being distributed, it all over the rear axle. With the WD, you shouldn't even need any auto level at all. The WD will level, and distribute the weight to the front axle also.

If you already have the WD system, then use it as designed. It's safer, better for both tow vehicle and trailer, and you can use the sway as it was intended.

[sch911]

I'm still confused as to why you think you don't need the WDH function?

[icanon]

Ask yourself why not use it? You got it so use it. That said, auto level suspension does not tell the truth about weights being distributed it just levels the TV. Without knowing the weights you may have too much weight on the rear tires or uneven weight distrbution, you have to turn off the auto level to see how much back end and front end are not leveled. If your not sure of payload weight on TV bring it to weight station and see the numbers and determine how much distribution is needed.