Any reason I'd need weight distribution?

[x98grow]

Another noob here to the world of hauling a TT. I've got a Shadow Cruiser 185fbs that I'm hauling with a Dodge Ram. The Shadow Cruiser is ultralight, 2600 lbs with a 300lb tongue weight. When I hook it up, the rear of the truck sinks slightly but still rides evenly. I've hauled it a couple times now and it seems to ride well.
I haven't had any issue with sway but I still plan to install a friction sway control for longer trips. My questions i need confirmation on are these:
1. Since the truck seems to ride evenly and handle well without weight distribution and the trailer is light, would there still be any reason to install weight distribution?
And
2. Without weight distribution, is it correct that friction sway control is my only option?
Thank in advance!

[Ron_Gratz]

TomG2 wrote:
---GM makes a WD hitch optional for their pickups in many cases now.---

gmw photos wrote:
---However, one needs to read carefully what and "how" the truck manufacturer writes these recommendations.---

gmw, There is much truth in what you say.

It would make much more sense to me if Chevrolet specified Front Alxe Load Restoration (FALR) on the basis of tongue weight rather than trailer weight.

For example --

With trailer weight = 7000# and TW not more than 1100#, 0% FALR (no WD) is okay.

With trailer weight = 7001#, TW could be 700#, and 50% FALR is required.

So, an 1100# TW could be okay with 0% FALR, but 700# TW might require 50%.

With trailer weight = 9900#, TW could be 1485#, and 50% FALR is okay.

With trailer weight = 9901#, TW could be 1485#, and 100% FALR is required.

So, a 1485# TW might be okay with 50% FALR, or it might require 100%.

Is anyone else confused?? :h

Ron

[jmtandem]

I disagree and in general WDH with sway makes for a smoother and more comfortable towing experience.

[gmw_photos]

TomG2 wrote:
According to gmw photos, "There is likely some truth in what you say."

Thanks. There may be some truth in what you wrote also.

Obviously there are several different numbers to look at, payload for instance. It would take a pretty dumb person to put even 500 pounds of tongue weight on a pickup already over its payload limit with a bed full of firewood. The hitch has its own ratings. The rear axle. The tires. The WD bars. The list goes on and on. I was not quoting from the Nissan manual when I said that GM has changed their requirements for weight distributing hitches. For all I know, a Nissan may be a lot like Gramp's old Buick.

And for a person like the OP....someone who is new at all this, it certainly would be wise to do as much homework as possible. You are correct there are several numbers to look at. What I do when I am setting up a trailer and truck combo, is make a easy to read chart where I can fill in all the blanks. I include a box for everything from tire capacities, to axle capacities on both the trailer and tow vehicle, etc, etc. At the end of it, I also figure where I am as a percentage of allowed. And guessing doesn't count....for me, numbers have to be determined by trips to the scale.
We often see on these forums that folks think this is overly complex. It's not, really. Once a person writes it all down on a piece of paper, and simply looks at it, it all starts falling into place with the application of sixth grade level math.

[TomG2]

According to gmw photos, "There is likely some truth in what you say."

Thanks. There may be some truth in what you wrote also.

Obviously there are several different numbers to look at, payload for instance. It would take a pretty dumb person to put even 500 pounds of tongue weight on a pickup already over its payload limit with a bed full of firewood. The hitch has its own ratings. The rear axle. The tires. The WD bars. The list goes on and on. I was not quoting from the Nissan manual when I said that GM has changed their requirements for weight distributing hitches. For all I know, a Nissan may be a lot like Gramp's old Buick.

[gmw_photos]

TomG2 wrote:
WD hitches were very much needed back in the days when Grandpa hooked up his 1960 Buick to an Airstream. I think a lot of folks just assumed that was the way to go. Modern pickups are a different story. The manufacturers are taking a new look at that old mentality. GM makes a WD hitch optional for their pickups in many cases now. I use one for what I perceive to be a better ride. Might not be, but I already owned one.

Tom,
There is likely some truth in what you say. However, one needs to read carefully what and "how" the truck manufacturer writes these recommendations. For instance, my Nissan owners manual states I can pull up to 5000 pounds without WD, and up to 6300 with WD. It does not however directly state tongue weights in those limits. So for instance, if we take their 5000 pound trailer limit with a typical boat trailer tongue loading of just 8%, we would have just 400 pounds on the tongue. A 5000 pound camper trailer with 13% tongue would be 650 pounds.
I might consider this truck to be "ok" with just 400 pounds of tongue on just the ball. I would not however consider it a good setup with 650 pounds.
Just something else for the OP to consider and research. Bottom line is the RV companies and the vehicle manufacturers tend to let the marketing departments play somewhat fast and loose with the numbers games.

[TomG2]

WD hitches were very much needed back in the days when Grandpa hooked up his 1960 Buick to an Airstream. I think a lot of folks just assumed that was the way to go. Modern pickups are a different story. The manufacturers are taking a new look at that old mentality. GM makes a WD hitch optional for their pickups in many cases now. I use one for what I perceive to be a better ride. Might not be, but I already owned one.

[gmw_photos]

x98grow wrote:
Another noob here to the world of hauling a TT. I've got a Shadow Cruiser 185fbs that I'm hauling with a Dodge Ram. The Shadow Cruiser is ultralight, 2600 lbs with a 300lb tongue weight. When I hook it up, the rear of the truck sinks slightly but still rides evenly. I've hauled it a couple times now and it seems to ride well.
I haven't had any issue with sway but I still plan to install a friction sway control for longer trips. My questions i need confirmation on are these:
1. Since the truck seems to ride evenly and handle well without weight distribution and the trailer is light, would there still be any reason to install weight distribution?
And
2. Without weight distribution, is it correct that friction sway control is my only option?
Thank in advance!

I own one of the sister trailers to what you have ( Funfinder 189FDS ) that is essentially identical in size and weight. The manufacturer shows your trailer to have a dry weight of 2929 ( you may have been confusing the axle weight they have listed at 2675 ). My 189FDS was listed at 3020 dry, and it weighs 3900 ready to leave my driveway. I pack pretty light though.

I use a BlueOx swaypro weight distributing hitch. It works well at distributing weight, as verified on the CAT scales, and subjectively, it works well in driving. I towed the trailer 600 miles home from the dealer without WD, and have towed it over 10,000 miles with weight distribution, and I will say using the WD is a huge improvement.

EDIT: as an FYI a 3900 pound travel trailer would typically be set up with something approx 460 to 505 pounds of tongue weight (12% to 13%)

[LarryJM]

jmtandem wrote:
Virtually every trailer is delived from the factory to the dealer without using WD.
Correct and that is more from the necessity and requirements along with a very limited window of increased risk of an accident.

Granted the trailers are at their lowest weight and most delivery folks use one ton duallys.
Correct and these are commercial activities hopefully performed by more experienced drivers that the normal person you see on the highway towing TT

I never really understood why with thousands of all kinds of trailers towed every day on the ball, why the RV folks seem to think that if we tow without WD and sway mitigation we will end up in the ditch.

Probably 95% of those are locally towed equipment trailers or smaller cargo trailers and not these 30ft plus "HUGE BILLBOARDS" towed with everything from a Volkswagon to a Pererbilt.

If you want the peace of mind towing then go with WD and sway mitigation but that is most likely all it is - peace of mind- because most that tow with a properly set up trailer, correct tongue weight, and a capable tow vehicle like the OP's Ram should never have a problem.

Yep hook up even that 30' BILLBOARD to your every day driver Peterbilt and go for it ... however those are a very small percentage of drivers of TT on the highways so WD and Sway "control/mitigation" as a general rule of thumb is prudent and in the cases where it might be overkill is one of the "no harm" - "no foul" situations.

If the OP does not need to transfer tongue weight to restore some weight to the front axle that was removed by the tongue then why mess with a WD setup?

I disagree and in general WDH with sway makes for a smoother and more comfortable towing experience.

Larry

[TomG2]

jmtandem pondered, "I never really understood why with thousands of all kinds of trailers towed every day on the ball, why the RV folks seem to think that if we tow without WD and sway mitigation we will end up in the ditch."

One reason might be that we love our toys and gadgets. Something cool about "snapping up those brackets" and macho about lifting the back of the truck a couple of inches. It might also be that we like to "keep up with the Joneses". "They have a Reese Dual Cam, we gotta have an Equalizer", sort of thing.

Just having fun here. Please don't think I am totally against the use of Weight Distributing hitches. "jmtandem" asked the question.

[jmtandem]

delete

[jerem0621]

Folks I own a F350 Dually and I tow a 7000 lb loaded 31 ft Travel Trailer.

I use a Draw-Tite 1200 lb Trunnion WD hitch with dual friction sway bars. My trailer is very stable and the ride is very smooth, no teeter tottering over expansion joints, etc. With the use of this hitch and friction bars the trailer and the truck ride as one. No clunking, no banging etc.

For kicks yesterday I towed home about 12 miles without the WD or sway control on back roads just to see if the stability I enjoy with my standard WD hitch and friction bars was really just the dually and the long wheel base.

While there was no sway there was a noticeable increase in the amount of movement of the trailer. Bumps and dips were more pronounced and there was something I have not experienced with WD... a distinct clunk from the draw bar as it loads and unloads going over bumps and expansion joints. I believe this is called porpoising.. The truck and the trailer no longer felt as one.. while the truck is more than adequate and handled OK.. I will not run without the WD again.

When properly set up a WD hitch will make the ride MUCH smoother, the porpoising will be greatly diminished, the connection between the TV and the TT will be greatly increased, and the rig will feel more stable. Yes, even with mighty HD trucks, WD hitches and sway control can make the ride that much better.

I personally think that anything over 500 lbs of tongue weight can benefit from a WD hitch.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[Gdetrailer]

Desert Captain writes "I think you will find that it tows even better with a properly set WDH and sway control is never a bad idea."

Actually it CAN BE A BAD IDEA in some cases to use WD.

Folks get a grip.

The OP is talking at least 1/2 ton TRUCK pulling a trailer which might weigh 3K and have tongue weight of 300 lbs empty.

Simply put, if a 1/2 ton can not pull a trailer of this little weight without WD then it is time to give up completely on towing.

Chances are putting WD on this trailer will result in an unstable tow and may even DAMAGE the trailer tongue in the process (some trailer manufacturers will actually TELL you to not use WD with this weight class).

Many folk here seem to paint with a broad brush thinking that everyone must use WD for everything. WD needs to be applied CAREFULLY since it is NOT ALWAYS needed or required. Applying WD to a combination which is to light weight will waste your money and possibly make the match unstable or bend the trailer tongue.

WD was created to allow undersized tow vehicles tow larger loads by attempting to "push" weight up to the front axles of the vehicle. In this case there really is not enough weight on the hitch to "push" and is not enough to overload the rear axles.

Now if you are concerned about sway then simply add in a friction sway control device.

[TomG2]

Lots of well meaning advice on here, but why not determine your actual weights and then see what your owner's manual recommends/requires? You don't need us to tell you.

[mowermech]

Hook up your trailer loaded as for going camping. Then, wait until after dark, and turn the pickup headlights on. When on low beam, where do the lights hit the road? Will they blind on-coming drivers? If so, you NEED a WD hitch to get the lights back down where they belong! (That IS, after all, what the things were invented for!)
The tongue weight of your trailer should be 10 to 15 % of the actual trailer weight. Closer to 15% is better. A properly built, properly loaded trailer, connected to the proper tow vehicle, should not sway. If it does, find out why, and fix it! Then, if a "sway control" gadget will make you feel better, buy the best you can afford.

[I_am_still_wayn]

Ivylog wrote:
Sway is caused by not enough tongue weight.

This is totally incorrect!

Sway is caused by dynamic forces exerted upon the trailer causing it to move rapidly from side to side. The dynamic forces can be caused by cross winds, the push/pull effect of passing vehicles, as well as a hitch weight that lightens the hitch weight on the towing vehicle.