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Autostop vs Ready Brute vs something else

MichaelOH59
Explorer II
Explorer II
To the assembled wise men and sages i submit this Class A newbie question: Is it more wise to use a surge brake system such as Blue Ox Autostop or ready Brute Elite, if so do you have a preference; or is it more wise to tow with a conventional tow bar?

I have a 97 Foretravel U320 11L Cummings tipping the scales at about 31K#. I will be towing an 03 Acura TL weighs @3500#. I prefer something the old lady can hook and unhook so convenience is a pretty big consideration otherwise she aint gonna do it. Also the huge cost savings of a surge brake system is interesting but not absolutely necessary if the surge brake systems had significant disadvantages. So, if you would please share your experiences with the surge brake systems, good and bad.
13 REPLIES 13

PilotAlso
Explorer
Explorer
John S. wrote:
You do not want a surge braking system on your foretravlel. The retarder will activate it and the car will try to slow the coach. Get an air brake system either Air Force one or m and g. Foretravel owner said have had issues with the surge brake in the past.



This is simply not possible with a properly operating surge brake!

As the coach slows the toad pushes against the surge piston. This action proportionally activates the toads brakes slowing the toad. As the toad slows, the surge piston releases the toad brakes. There is no way the toad could attempt to stop the coach.

Whether the coach is using its brakes, or the "retarder" to slow down, makes no difference to the toad. Without toad brakes, the toad will push against the coach as the engine brake is activated.

JNW57
Explorer
Explorer
M & G X2. Less than 300 miles from you in Athens,TX.
2003 DISCOVERY 39L QUAD SLIDE
2014 HONDA CRV EX-L FWD
BLUE OX ALADDIN, M&G AIR BRAKE, KAR GUARD

John_S_
Explorer II
Explorer II
You do not want a surge braking system on your foretravlel. The retarder will activate it and the car will try to slow the coach. Get an air brake system either Air Force one or m and g. Foretravel owner said have had issues with the surge brake in the past.
John
2015 Born Free Royal Splendor on a Ford 550
2018 Rubicon
Boo Boo a Mi Kie
42' 36' & 34 Foretravels sold
2007 Born free 24 sold
2001 Wrangler sold
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland sold
Susie Dolly, Lolly &Doodle (CKC) now in our hearts and thoughts

loggenrock
Explorer
Explorer
As a user, I can tell you a bungee cord is not going to have any effect on brake activation or not. I have heard of others using a cord to more quickly return the toad brake pedal to "normal" position, but once you set it up, I haven't seen any excess brake wear. A surge brake will not activate going down a hill if both coach and toad are moving at the same speed - hence, no "surge". It only activates when the coach slows and the toad pushes forward. Once toad brakes activate and slow it, no more surge, so no more brake activation, hence, no excessive wear. I sure didn't design it, but it sure works well! ST
Two and a hound in a 2015 Coachmen Prism "B+"...pushed by '09 Suby Forester
First 50 done, working on the second pass! Nunavut - we'll see...!
2005-2015 Roadtrek 190P
1993-2005 Northstar Soft-Side TC
1989-1993 Backpacks & Tents!
1967-1977 Family TT's

MichaelOH59
Explorer II
Explorer II
rjstractor wrote:
With the huge difference between motorhome and toad weight, I would go with a basic braking system primarily for emergency braking in the very unlikely event of a breakaway. It will be difficult to dial in effective toad braking without placing undue wear on your toad brakes.


A user on another forum says he solved this problem with a bungee cord that prevents surge brake activation on, presumably, gentle slopes. Your point is well made however. it is really the only concern I have about using a surge brake system.

rjstractor
Nomad
Nomad
With the huge difference between motorhome and toad weight, I would go with a basic braking system primarily for emergency braking in the very unlikely event of a breakaway. It will be difficult to dial in effective toad braking without placing undue wear on your toad brakes.
2017 VW Golf Alltrack
2000 Ford F250 7.3

MichaelOH59
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thank all of yall for the informative responses. Certainly seems as though the surge brake systems have plenty of fans.

Heisenberg
Explorer
Explorer
RVI 2 is light and and easy and best for us with 2 toads.
2013 Winnebago Sightseer
2017 Colorado

loggenrock
Explorer
Explorer
Been using ReadyBrute for a year/6k miles. Really pleased - tows our 3200# Suby Forester without difficulty. No box to store away - just connect and go! ST
Two and a hound in a 2015 Coachmen Prism "B+"...pushed by '09 Suby Forester
First 50 done, working on the second pass! Nunavut - we'll see...!
2005-2015 Roadtrek 190P
1993-2005 Northstar Soft-Side TC
1989-1993 Backpacks & Tents!
1967-1977 Family TT's

dahkota
Explorer
Explorer
I'm an 'old lady' and I typically have the job of hooking and unhooking the toad when we arrive in campgrounds.
Unhooking, from jumping out of the A to driving away in the jeep, typically takes four minutes, less if it is cold and rainy.
Hooking up takes about four minutes once the jeep is in the right place to reach the arms of the Ready Brute Elite.
The heaviest part are the arms and they don't weigh more than 15 lbs. Hooking them in 'stow' position is the hardest part of the job.
Because we have a custom bumper on our jeep, there is no real bending or crawling to get to the baseplate hooks.
We have not had any problems with the surge brake system. We have used it for 2.5 years and 38K miles.
2015 Jeep Willys Wrangler
2014 Fleetwood Bounder 33C
States camped: all but Hawaii
more than 1700 days on the road

avan
Explorer
Explorer
Got rid of my Brake Buddy (too hard to get down on my knees, get under the dash a bit to hook it up to the pedal (hopefully it's not raining down my back and into my car interior while I do this) and then struggle to get up off my knees). Threw it in the trash as I didn't wish that experience on anyone else even if they are young and healthy.

Got the B.O. Autostop and love it. Do the normal hookup with my tow bar and electrical connection/break away brake and then clip the Autostop cable to the cable loop on my car. I'd estimate the time to do the complete Autostop connection to be between 1 and 1.5 seconds.

The same would be true of Ready Brake but I was in the midwest when I said to H... with the Brake Buddy and stopped at B.O. to have them do the install (don't have much faith in dealers and RV shops). I've had mine two yrs and have about 30,000 add'l towing miles since I got it. Zero complaints.

Daughter who full times liked it and bought the little autostop extension for her towbar and now has a yr of carefree use.
www.putt10.net

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
I haven't found any disadvantages to using our ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system. The 8,000 lb rated all-terrain aluminum tow bar is easy to hook up to our Blue Ox base plate, and the brake hookup is quite literally a "snap". Once the initial braking setup adjustments were made a couple of years ago, I've not had to re-adjust anything. It just works...
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

Ductape
Explorer
Explorer
I prefer the RVI brake because it's adjustable from the MH. You can monitor it remotely and adjust settings from the driver's seat.

PS I am obliged by the union rules to remind you that Cummings is a town in Georgia, and Cummins builds engines. ๐Ÿ˜‰ (believe me if I don't someone else will!)

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