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Black tank valve leaking

Travlingman
Explorer II
Explorer II
My black tank valve is leaking. Started out that it wouldn't close all the way, could tell where handle stopped when pushing in to close. Now the handle doesn't close by 1/4 inch, and tank is losing a lot of water. Has anyone found a chemical or something that would clean out the valve? We are living in camper now, so trying not to replace valve if I can come up with a way of fixing it until spring. Using a cutoff valve at end of line now so tank doesn't go dry.
2017 F-350 King Ranch DRW
2014 Landmark Savannah(sold)
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21 REPLIES 21

larry_barnhart
Explorer
Explorer
SH wrote:
Gjac wrote:
My black tank valve became very hard to move, don't know if it was rolling or not but when I replaced it 5 years ago I put grease fittings on top of the black and grey valves. When ever the valve gets hard to move I put some grease in the fitting which lubes the blade. The grey valve is 18 years old and has always worked fine.


Clever idea! My valves are not easily accessed so adding grease through a zirk fitting would be problematic. Do you use a special type of grease?

I have not done this but I have an RV friend that swears by this method...when his valve gets difficult to move he will dump the tanks and then put a couple bottles of cheap cooking oil down the toilet. Working the valve in and out a few times while dumping the oil reportedly cures the issue.

Happy New Year!




Yes it does and I have done so at least once each winter here in Az. bought the veg oil last month and waiting for the time to lube the valve or shaft. Pull and push fast to work the oil in before it drains out. Happ New Year everybody.

chevman
chevman
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Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
SH wrote:
Gjac wrote:
My black tank valve became very hard to move, don't know if it was rolling or not but when I replaced it 5 years ago I put grease fittings on top of the black and grey valves. When ever the valve gets hard to move I put some grease in the fitting which lubes the blade. The grey valve is 18 years old and has always worked fine.


Clever idea! My valves are not easily accessed so adding grease through a zirk fitting would be problematic. Do you use a special type of grease?

I have not done this but I have an RV friend that swears by this method...when his valve gets difficult to move he will dump the tanks and then put a couple bottles of cheap cooking oil down the toilet. Working the valve in and out a few times while dumping the oil reportedly cures the issue. Tried the cooking oil thing and other home remedies posted here the only thing that worked for me was the grease fitting I use the same grease gun and grease that I use to grease my chassis.

Happy New Year!
I just use regular chassis grease. Tried all the other home remedies first including oil in the toilet, and spraying WD-40 on the valve this is the only thing that worked for me long term.

SH
Explorer
Explorer
Gjac wrote:
My black tank valve became very hard to move, don't know if it was rolling or not but when I replaced it 5 years ago I put grease fittings on top of the black and grey valves. When ever the valve gets hard to move I put some grease in the fitting which lubes the blade. The grey valve is 18 years old and has always worked fine.


Clever idea! My valves are not easily accessed so adding grease through a zirk fitting would be problematic. Do you use a special type of grease?

I have not done this but I have an RV friend that swears by this method...when his valve gets difficult to move he will dump the tanks and then put a couple bottles of cheap cooking oil down the toilet. Working the valve in and out a few times while dumping the oil reportedly cures the issue.

Happy New Year!
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Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
Ron3rd wrote:
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Bet one of the inner seals has come dislodged and it now 'rolled'

Regardless....if flushing doesn't fix it, gonna have to get to valve and rebuild/replace.
Easiest access is to cut three side window under valve area and fold down underbelly section (folded area towards front and tape shut with gorilla tape)


X2, just get the rebuild kit and replace the seals since you have to take it apart anyway. Note that there are 2 major brands, Valterra and another brand I don't recall the name of at the moment. Easy job once you get the tank dumped.
My black tank valve became very hard to move, don't know if it was rolling or not but when I replaced it 5 years ago I put grease fittings on top of the black and grey valves. When ever the valve gets hard to move I put some grease in the fitting which lubes the blade. The grey valve is 18 years old and has always worked fine.

davidaf
Explorer
Explorer
Had the same issue. Used the flush king several times where the water would be "rolling" in the flush king (pressure of water coming out was greater than the pressure going in) then I'd close and open the knife a few times. Did this 3 or 4 times and the "stuff" was dislodged.
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ckwjl
Explorer
Explorer
The same thing happened to my black tankโ€™s valve at the beginning of the camping season last year. Discovered a paper towel had been flushed down the toilet. I cut a slit in the side of an old garden hose and capped the end hoping I could blast water into the seal, but the blade had wedged the paper towel into the seal too tight for the water to dislodge it; also unsuccessfully tried using a coat hanger. Disassembling my valve was a last resort as I cannot access one of the four bolts without removing the panel under the tank. I attached a third twist-on knife valve as a temporary fix thinking the paper towel would eventually just disintegrate. While dumping the tank this summer, the valve finally closed completely--works good as new.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Smash it in closed a few times. Brute force sometimes works.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

bguy
Explorer
Explorer
You likely won't get it out without disassembling the valve. Whatever is there has been compacted into the grove when you close the valve. Mine had a "flushable" wipe in it. I had to take it all apart after attempting several of the remedies suggested here, including putting the cap on, filling the tank with the valve open, adding chemical and letting it sit for 4 days. You may have better results.
---------------------------------------
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Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Bet one of the inner seals has come dislodged and it now 'rolled'

Regardless....if flushing doesn't fix it, gonna have to get to valve and rebuild/replace.
Easiest access is to cut three side window under valve area and fold down underbelly section (folded area towards front and tape shut with gorilla tape)


X2, just get the rebuild kit and replace the seals since you have to take it apart anyway. Note that there are 2 major brands, Valterra and another brand I don't recall the name of at the moment. Easy job once you get the tank dumped.
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John_Joey
Explorer
Explorer
If all else fails, as you're flushing the tank open and close it in rapid succession. Hopefully this will smash and dislodge the paper as the water is flowing past.

Also if you're back flushing close the valve 90% and let the water "rush" past the smaller opening. Hopefully the increase water speed will jet out the obstruction (if there is one.)
Thereโ€™s no fool, like an old fool.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Bet one of the inner seals has come dislodged and it now 'rolled'

Regardless....if flushing doesn't fix it, gonna have to get to valve and rebuild/replace.
Easiest access is to cut three side window under valve area and fold down underbelly section (folded area towards front and tape shut with gorilla tape)
Is it time for your medication or mine?


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Travlingman
Explorer II
Explorer II
SH wrote:
Travlingman wrote:
Flush out tanks about every 5 days. Last few times have flushed black tank 30-45 minutes. Already have the extra valve on it. Have had trouble since I bought it with the leak. At first it was just a little, but now pretty bad. If I can't find a chemical that can break it up, might put up with it until spring comes as I will have to take underbelly skirting off to get to it.


Have you talked to Heartland Customer Service yet? On a 2014 flagship model they may have some ideas on a fix and might even do a warranty repair if the valve is defective! Just a thought!


Might give that a try. Dealer supposedly fixed it when I took it in last year, so there should be a record. Most I could be out is a phone call.

Also going to try some tank cleaner chemical tomorrow after cleaning out tank again, go heavy on dosage, and let it set and see if it helps.
2017 F-350 King Ranch DRW
2014 Landmark Savannah(sold)
2022 DRV Mobile Suite 40KSSB4

FrankShore
Explorer
Explorer
If its a toilet chemical you're looking for, to dissolve "stuff" try RV-Digest It (not spelled the right way)
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SH
Explorer
Explorer
Travlingman wrote:
Flush out tanks about every 5 days. Last few times have flushed black tank 30-45 minutes. Already have the extra valve on it. Have had trouble since I bought it with the leak. At first it was just a little, but now pretty bad. If I can't find a chemical that can break it up, might put up with it until spring comes as I will have to take underbelly skirting off to get to it.


Have you talked to Heartland Customer Service yet? On a 2014 flagship model they may have some ideas on a fix and might even do a warranty repair if the valve is defective! Just a thought!
2001 Alpenlite 35RK
2007.5 Chev LMM Duramax/Allison
BD Variable Vane Turbo Brake
TST 507
2010 FLHTC Electra Glide Classic Red Hot Sunglo ๐Ÿ™‚