EB towing 28BHSWE and needing WDH recommendations

[dlmckinney33]

I have a 2012 f150 ecoboost FX4 crew cab with max tow. It meets all payload and weight guidelines. I don't put anything in my bed and no family, so not going to turn this into a "you need a bigger pickup forum" I sold my old camper that was 29' total length and 5800 dry and 650 lbs of TW. I used an equal i zer hitch set up. I had to use almost all the washers to get the hitch to do a decent job leveling out without squatting and the bars still looked like they were bending a fair amount. I am buying a new camper that is 6630lbs dry and 720 lbs of TW. Its a 2014 hideout 28BHSWE it will be about 32.5' long total. And it has a Total weight capacity of 10,000. I am looking to buy a new equal i zer hitch set up for it and im not sure if the last one was under sized for the weight or if going with the larger bars would make a difference. I cant remember what they were rated for, i sold it with the camper. But anyways just looking for input on what is the best route. I like the chain style because its super easy to hook up and un hook, but I would like sway control. But liked how the equa l izer towed. I am thinking about going with the equal i zer again and getting either the 12,000 with 1,200 TW model or the 14,000 with 1,400 TW model. Any thoughts? Thanks!

[dlmckinney33]

Just take your dry tongue weight add 100lbs for full propane tanks, prob another 75lbs for batteries, prob 50lbs for the hitch itself, most campers have a storage unit in the front of the camper so I added another 100lbs just for junk in the front, then whatever u will haul behind the rear axle of the pickup in the bed. I always have a generator and fuel. Add it all up and if it's just under the 1000 mark or close I would just go up to the 1500 bars. Won't hurt anything. Enjoy!

[JoeTampa]

3oaks wrote:

downtheroad wrote:
I'm going with a Blue Ox Sway Pro on our new trailer. It has a GVWR of 10,000 lbs. I called Blue Ox and they said to go with the 1500 lb. bars.

That was a timely post for me. We just traded our trailer for a new trailer with a GVWR of 10,000#. I had an Equal-I-zer hitch for our old trailer and was very satisfied with it. However, I am always looking at something new and the Blue Ox Sway Pro caught my attention. If I decide to go with Blue Ox, I was at a quandary at to what bars to choose, 1000# or 1500#. :@

You pick the bars based on tongue weight.

I have the 1500lb bars and love the system.

[3oaks]

downtheroad wrote:
I'm going with a Blue Ox Sway Pro on our new trailer. It has a GVWR of 10,000 lbs. I called Blue Ox and they said to go with the 1500 lb. bars.

That was a timely post for me. We just traded our trailer for a new trailer with a GVWR of 10,000#. I had an Equal-I-zer hitch for our old trailer and was very satisfied with it. However, I am always looking at something new and the Blue Ox Sway Pro caught my attention. If I decide to go with Blue Ox, I was at a quandary at to what bars to choose, 1000# or 1500#. :@

[dlmckinney33]

Awesome. Sounds comparable to what I will be towing, 32'6" total length and 6630 dry and 720 TW dry. I am picking it up Friday, I got the equal-I-zer E2 with the 1200lb bars.

[Kevin_O_]

I towed our 32'9" Outback for 4 seasons with a 2011 F150 with max tow. It was 6500lbs dry with 820lbs of dry tongue weight. It is close to 8000lbs loaded and I also use a Equal-I-zer with 1000lb bars. The truck towed great!

[carringb]

Rescue16 wrote:
I do not tow over 65 mph so for those that tow faster then that can not give a true evaluation for that. Highly recommend it!!

I've been over 80 MPH on some trips (where appropriate for speed limits and traffic). Handles just fine. That said, I also tow our enclosed car hauler are high speeds as well, with no sway control, and it still handles fine. Bottom line: Get your trailer properly balanced and set up so its stable without sway control, because it should only be needed for adverse anyways. Relying on sway control to dampen bad trailer dynamics is a recipe for a bad time.


One thing it does not do as well as the Dual Cam is hold straight when passing trucks during high winds (straight on or cross winds). The Dual cam held everything straight. The Blue Ox does not. There's no sway, but be prepared to steer slightly away from the truck as the rear of the trailer passes bow of the truck. Not a lot, but you won't be able to drive hands free in strong winds around big trucks. Not that you should anyways;)

[downtheroad]

dlmckinney33 wrote:
Thanks for the math! I found out my dealer (which is buying the hitch of my choice, which is part of our deal) but they only carry equal-I-zer, curt, and Anderson for WDHs. So now I'm planning on going with the equal-I-zer system with the 1200lb bars. My brother has the Anderson setup and it really doesn't seem to do any sort of weight distribution and he fights putting it on and off. I wouldn't mind the curt but seems like most people prefer the equal-I-zer over curt. Thanks everyone for your input.

If you really want to go with a Blue Ox Sway Pro, lean on your dealer. He can order one for you. He is just trying to do the normal thing and sell you what he has in stock.

(however, there is nothing wrong with equal-i-zer) but, having had one, my opinion: there are better systems out there.

[Rescue16]

Had the Blue Ox Sway Pro for three years after using the Equalizer. The Sway Pro hands down is the winner IMO easier to hook up, Quieter, and the towing experience no matter the type road, speed , or traffic has been so much more enjoyable. I do not tow over 65 mph so for those that tow faster then that can not give a true evaluation for that. Highly recommend it!!

[dlmckinney33]

Thanks for the math! I found out my dealer (which is buying the hitch of my choice, which is part of our deal) but they only carry equal-I-zer, curt, and Anderson for WDHs. So now I'm planning on going with the equal-I-zer system with the 1200lb bars. My brother has the Anderson setup and it really doesn't seem to do any sort of weight distribution and he fights putting it on and off. I wouldn't mind the curt but seems like most people prefer the equal-I-zer over curt. Thanks everyone for your input.

[dlmckinney33]

My family rides in my wife's car that pulls the RZR...:)

[APT]

I question the nothing in the truck bed and no family when researching a bunk house, bit I'll run with all the numbers work out.

Your truck with 3.5L EB and 3.73 should be great for power. I would recommend the EQ 1000 or 1200 pound bars. At 720 pounds dry, should be a little under 1000 pounds loaded. Ford recommend you only need to restore 50% of unloaded front axle weight for your year truck. I would target closer to 100% based on rear axle load and rating. Many RV ownners with late model F-150s that have taken their setups to scales show rear axle rating (around 4050 pounds) exceeded under all other ratings @ 50% front axle weight restored.

Timbrens, air bags, and add a leaf do not transfer any weight from the rear axle to the front. 1000 pounds of TW dropping on a ball will take off about 400 pounds from the front/steer axle and add about 1400 pounds to the rear axle. While these rear suspension aids can change 5" of sag to none, they do not change that 1400 pounds. A WDH can take 600 pounds from that 1400 off the rear axle and restore the 400 to the front axle.

[BenK]

Typical and have real experience with my Silverado C10 Big Ten...the HD version of
the half ton for that era model line...AKA...it has a higher GVWR than the 'regular'
half ton

Rear GAWR is +4K lbs. Compared to my Suburban's 6K RGAWR, which is a 3/4 ton Sub

Installed 1 ton coil helper springs (Timbren's are just rubber bumper stops to
increase the spring rate).

So my Silverado has a +4K RGAWR + 2K helpers = +6K total spring capacity, but
the RGAWR remains +4K

I do haul firewood and pellets for the winter heating season. Anywhere from 2.5K
to 3.2K worth and only drive on surface streets at 20mph. Ditto dirt,
gravel, etc

Used to take the freeway, but had to replace the rear axle bearings almost every
year while doing that.

Now change them when they fall apart from the over load. That is about every 2
or so years

I also have LT tires, 33/12.5R15LT load range C with a max sidewall listing of
35 PSI

I've also converted my K5 (no longer own it) with a Dana 60 front axle and
GM 14 bolt rear. Along with new leaf springs for both ends....bottom line
is that it was still a bobbed half ton framed 4x4 Blazer. That is
1 ton suspension and axles on a half ton vehicle

Decide if you the OP believe in your OEM's ratings or not.

It not, then do whatever, but note that you have taken the OEM(s) off both the
warranty and liability hook...to assume them yourself

If yes, then gather the ratings up and do the simple math on what you truly rated for
and go out and actually weigh your TV & trailer...fully loaded

If no trailer yet, then do NOT use their dry weights...use their GVWR weights
as the most conservative way

The risk management decision (AKA Gambling) is the OPs alone. Having as stack
of print outs from advisers saying 'sure you can', etc will have them NOT provide
any warranty or liability for you

[carringb]

2112 wrote:
A pair of Timbren's on the rear will help with the squat more than any WDH.

Yes, but they also won't distribute weight back to your front axle and prevent overloading your rear axle, and then you'll have a worse ride whenever you are not towing. Nowhere in your owner's manual will you ever find the phrase "when towing a trailer, install more springs".

[dlmckinney33]

I have it leveled or else it wouldn't be as noticeable for sag in the rear. I put air bags on it to help with the sag. (And yes I know it won't make the vehicle be able to tow more or haul more) good call on the hitch rating. I assumed they were rated for 1500 lbs of hitch weight. Looks like i will have to go with the 1,000 lb TW bars, too bad they don't have have 1,200 lb bars. The numbers I'm getting are straight from the Hideout brochure and everything online matches those numbers. So I have to assume it's the correct dry weights.