Good and Bad about Blue Ox Sway Pro

[Rescue16]

I just purchased a 2013 Cougar 32RBK travel trailer and I am towing it with a 2006 Ford F350 Crew Cab With the 6.0 Powerstroke. I am looking at getting the Blue Ox Sway Pro and would like to here the good and bad about this WD/Sway control. With my previous RV and vehicle (21SS Shamrock Hybrid and Ford E250 Conversion van) I used the Equalizer and all the experience was great it was really noisy.

Thanks in advance for taking a moment to tell me the good and bad!!

[Mike_Up]

carringb wrote:
Also - I forgot to mention the one major disadvantage:

The shank is cast. It was not cast with properly radius corners to fit most 2" Class-5 receiver. I spent a lot of time with a grinder making it fit, which in turn also took off the nice powder-coating. Frustrating to say the least.

This thread may be of interest on that cast shank.

[nwbearcat1998]

This is a great thread!! Could you please elaborate on the installation of the Sway pro and how much (if any) did the tow vehicle drop??

[carringb]

Also - I forgot to mention the one major disadvantage:

The shank is cast. It was not cast with properly radius corners to fit most 2" Class-5 receiver. I spent a lot of time with a grinder making it fit, which in turn also took off the nice powder-coating. Frustrating to say the least.

[carringb]

I think part of the market share reason is the wide array of part numbers. There's two style heads, and I think 5 different weights for the bars. That would mean a dealer would have to stock 10 hitches just to have each combination available. Most other brands only have a couple different combinations.

I had to have the dealer (Dennis Dillon) order mine, but it got there overnight so no big deal. But I also noticed that most customers don't even thunk about the hitch until after they sign the papers and it's time to leave, and then the service counter just sells whatever they have on the shelf.

[CHD_Dad]

I still love my Blue Ox and I have towed a few thousand miles with it now. Ride is just as smooth as the Andersen which used to be one of the ride kings. No noise and no sway, it just works well and is very easy to get installed and going. I think a lot has to do with those tapered WD bars, they are acting as a long spring taking a lot of the shock out of the system.

[gmw_photos]

bnk190 wrote:
Why is it that Blue Ox and Sway Pro haven't taken off and have a bigger market? I would really like to place this on my new trailer however I'm going with Equalizer since few dealerships around me carry this, don't want to order it or if they do carry it they state they don't sell any since they don't like the design.

I don't want my vehicle to be the test subject for the dealership so I'm going with Equalizer just because they are more well known and if there are problems any dealership can help.

As to market share, I don't know. But if you have decided to use the equalizer, then why does it really matter ? Not trying to be argumentative, but I would think you would be wanting to pursue information about set-up and use of the brand you are using ?
By the way, I have a friend who has the equalizer, and has used it on two different trailers, and is satisfied with it.

[bnk190]

Why is it that Blue Ox and Sway Pro haven't taken off and have a bigger market? I would really like to place this on my new trailer however I'm going with Equalizer since few dealerships around me carry this, don't want to order it or if they do carry it they state they don't sell any since they don't like the design.

I don't want my vehicle to be the test subject for the dealership so I'm going with Equalizer just because they are more well known and if there are problems any dealership can help.

[carringb]

I also ended up getting a Sway-Pro, with 1500 pound bars. The new trailer is 39' tip to tip and is about 10,500 empty.

Color me impressed. I was most impressed with the ride. With other hitches I've had, applying enough WD-tension always resulted in transmitting harshness from the trailer. No so with this hitch. It's the best riding hitch I've had. It pulls great, and get zero push even with entering tight curves. I also have not noticed any bow wave push from semis.

That all said.... It is a new trailer, so it's hard to decide how much credit the trailer it due. It has a much more substantial frame, so that probably helps with some of the shudder I had before. It also has shocks on all 4 corners.

[SWAGGER]

BTW pulling w 2013 F250 PSD and 33ft Palamino Solaire 292QBSK

[SWAGGER]

Nothing like bumping a year old thread but I have a blue ox sway pro and have pulled about 12 times back and forth since getting our first TT back in april. So the issue for me is one of expectations.
I have no base line of what is a terrific setup.

I currently have the WDH set on 8 links and it appears to be doing well but I wonder if I am missing something about a true clean driving experience. should there be no flutter in the trailer? I still get some movement when being passed or wind. No fish tail but the just a push left or right.

[JBarca]

Hi Rescue,

Good for you!! Great. I knew that F350 could be set to ride well.

Thanks for reporting back

John

[Rescue16]

Well I finally figured out the issue with the Blue Ox Sway Pro I was having and the last trip I did was a very enjoyable I handed trip. If you have been keeping up with the thread you will remember I was complaining that I was having a real rough ride when using the sway pro. Well after talking to Blue OX and reading some of the responses here I came to the conclusion that I was transferring to much weight to the front wheels. I am now only using 7 links instead of the 9 links I was using and the ride has smoothed out. I also had a right rear brake caliber that was stuck on the F350 which was compounding the issue and now that problem has been identified and fixed I am having a enjoyable combination and the 8.5 mpg towing I was getting has now been increased to 12.0 mpg towing.

[gmw_photos]

Mike Up wrote:

Ron3rd wrote:
Mike,
You CAN use a standard 1-7/8 socket to torque the ball, I just did it on my Equalizer. You put the bars in the sockets and pivot them a bit and the standard socket works just fine.

Problem is finding the socket as you mentioned. A buddy has a repair shop and I just took it over to him and he torqued the ball after locating a dusty 1-7/8 socket he hadn't used for about 20 years. Call around to RV repair shops and they can probably do it for you for a small fee. If you buy your hitch locally, the shop will usually install it for free.

Well I did get my Reese Dual Cam fixed so for now, I'll be using it.

The sockets weren't the deal. I found them pretty much everywhere from $20 to $25. The problem is that they don't use a standard 1/2" drive rachet, but an expensive and harder to find 3/4" drive rachet. I have all kinds of 1/2" drive sockets and rachets and even a 1/2 drive 250# torque wrench. What I don't have is an expensive 3/4" drive torque wrench or any 3/4" drive rachets. As I said, I found a 3/4" drive breaker bar for $33. It can use the 1 7/8" socket that is a 3/4" drive but I can't get a torque spec with it.

It's not an issue now as I have the Reese but if it ever breaks again, I now have a back up plan.

Thanks

I have a 1/2 to 3/4 socket adapter so I can drive the socket with my 1/2" breaker bar.

[Mike_Up]

Ron3rd wrote:
Mike,
You CAN use a standard 1-7/8 socket to torque the ball, I just did it on my Equalizer. You put the bars in the sockets and pivot them a bit and the standard socket works just fine.

Problem is finding the socket as you mentioned. A buddy has a repair shop and I just took it over to him and he torqued the ball after locating a dusty 1-7/8 socket he hadn't used for about 20 years. Call around to RV repair shops and they can probably do it for you for a small fee. If you buy your hitch locally, the shop will usually install it for free.

Well I did get my Reese Dual Cam fixed so for now, I'll be using it.

The sockets weren't the deal. I found them pretty much everywhere from $20 to $25. The problem is that they don't use a standard 1/2" drive rachet, but an expensive and harder to find 3/4" drive rachet. I have all kinds of 1/2" drive sockets and rachets and even a 1/2 drive 250# torque wrench. What I don't have is an expensive 3/4" drive torque wrench or any 3/4" drive rachets. As I said, I found a 3/4" drive breaker bar for $33. It can use the 1 7/8" socket that is a 3/4" drive but I can't get a torque spec with it.

It's not an issue now as I have the Reese but if it ever breaks again, I now have a back up plan.

Thanks

[Ron3rd]

Mike,
You CAN use a standard 1-7/8 socket to torque the ball, I just did it on my Equalizer. You put the bars in the sockets and pivot them a bit and the standard socket works just fine.

Problem is finding the socket as you mentioned. A buddy has a repair shop and I just took it over to him and he torqued the ball after locating a dusty 1-7/8 socket he hadn't used for about 20 years. Call around to RV repair shops and they can probably do it for you for a small fee. If you buy your hitch locally, the shop will usually install it for free.