our T/T shower puts out a blast of COLD water when in the shower. I can have the water regulated to warm shut the had held shower nozzle. then when I turn it back on burrrrr its cold for a wile then warm. is there any way to fix this problem, I have been told it's a regulatory thing. there must be a way to make it be warm all the time. Jay D.
I think badsix has it right. Most report that that they, me included, get cold water when the shower is turned back on. Others report it is hot. Depends whether the hot or cold has the highest pressure at the time.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis 2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory
2112 wrote: I installed a valve similar to THIS on the valve base to allow the water to trickle. Solved our problem. Plus DW is too short to easily reach the shower head cut-off valve so this solved that as well.
I also did that, and it solved the problem. That allows you to leave the temperature setting as you like it, when you shut off the flow.
^^^^here my take on what happens, when i take a shower I wet down then shut the nozzle off. wash my hair what little I have left then I usually rinse. the time the water is off would not let it cool hardly any, only off maybe a minute. but its cold,not warm but very cold. what I think happens when the nozzle is let to dribble is the cold water pressure is relieved so it can't some how be forced back to the hot water tank the check valves do the same thing. i'm not sure how the cold water is forced back to the tank. its got to be some plumbing magic. Jay D.
The problem isn't running out of hot water. The problem is caused by completely closing off the water flow and allowing the hot water in the line time to cool. Allow the water to trickle and this will not happen. The valve I pointed out above is a trickle valve for this purpose. It will not completely stop the water flow.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow, Timbrens 2013 KZ Durango 2857
I am not sure I really understand the issue. In any case I have a system that has worked well for me. I bought a simple timer at the dollar store. I set it for the time needed to heat the water to shower temperature. With my 6 gallon Atwood that is about 15-25 minutes depending on the initial water temperature. When I take a shower I only turn on the hot water and the temperature is consistent for the typical shower. I like hotter water so I usually take the first shower. By then the water has cooled to the point that my wife likes.
yes, you defiantly need some type of shut off and with your check valves it probably works great. with mine it takes a lot of water to get it warm again after shutting it off.in the mean time that COLD water is splashing all over you. i'm no wimp but I really hate that. not to mention all the water wasted. Jay D.
We use and like a Camco shower head that has a positive shutoff valve. No wasted water when we're boondocking or on state/national park sites without water hookups.
Dutch 2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System 2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate
turbojimmy wrote: As mentioned, the Oxygenics shower head prevents this. It maintains a trickle when you shut the valve off to prevent a shock of hot or cold water. At first I found this frustrating - I thought it was leaking - until I understood the purpose.
i'm with you I thought it was broke. but mine will shut completely off sometimes if I remember correctly, gota get out there and check this stuff out. Jay D.
Dutch_12078 wrote: What's happening when the shower head valve is shut off is the cold water is pushing the hot water back in the line so when the valve opens you get a cold blast first. I installed check valves on our shower hot and cold lines at the faucet inlets to prevent the back feeding when the shower head valve is shut off. Problem solved...
AWESOME I'm going to look into this.
I wouldn't do that if you live in areas of freezing weather. But that's just me.
I've used the check valve setup for years in upstate NY. It doesn't affect either winterizing method, pumping RV antifreeze or blowing air through the lines.
Dutch 2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System 2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate
As mentioned, the Oxygenics shower head prevents this. It maintains a trickle when you shut the valve off to prevent a shock of hot or cold water. At first I found this frustrating - I thought it was leaking - until I understood the purpose.
Dutch_12078 wrote: What's happening when the shower head valve is shut off is the cold water is pushing the hot water back in the line so when the valve opens you get a cold blast first. I installed check valves on our shower hot and cold lines at the faucet inlets to prevent the back feeding when the shower head valve is shut off. Problem solved...
AWESOME I'm going to look into this.
I wouldn't do that if you live in areas of freezing weather. But that's just me.
No freezing weather to speak of here but its stored inside anyway. Jay D.
after reading some of these post I need to look at my hand held shower head and see just what I have. it will sometimes dribble out when shut off, I may just need to clean it out. but I do like the check valve set up. Thanks Jay D.
I got the blast of cold water on my last motorhome, but the new one didn't do it. When checking on another issue I found out why, the shower valve has check valves built in. :C
Dennis 2012 Monaco Knight 36PFT 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon on 2007 16' Car Trailer
