House batteries (has 2) durning storage.

[cougar28]

On our new 5er it has a battery disconnect switch but doesn't shut every thing off. Just had a RV carport built but to far away from ac power to plug in. So thinking maybe a solar charger to keep the batteries charged
plus the demand. Or another disconnect switch directly off the battery to totally disconnect them and maybe a small solar charger.I don't want to pull the batteries because I do check things every 3 or 4 weeks inside and out during storage just making sure there's no problems with anything. What do you do? Your thoughts?

[camperdave]

Dave H M wrote:
OK folks set me up with a scenario where I could hook up and hit the road with the battery disconnected? I guess it is possible to do that somehow.

Not only would you have to forget to connect the battery cable (which would only be possible if you don't have power landing gear), but you would need to have the hitch fail. Would be some long odds, I'd think.

[Sam_Spade]

Dave H M wrote:
OK folks set me up with a scenario where I could hook up and hit the road with the battery disconnected? I guess it is possible to do that somehow.

BUT.....why would you want to do that ?

Many systems will change a little off the tow vehicle while it is running.
The fridge won't run on propane with the battery too.
And then there is the problem with the brakes.

[Dave_H_M]

OK folks set me up with a scenario where I could hook up and hit the road with the battery disconnected? I guess it is possible to do that somehow.

[PNW_Steve]

Opnspaces makes a good point. You need to make sure that you accommodate the breakaway brakes.

I put a 300 watt panel, Renogy Rover MPPT charge controller and 2 GC-2's on my 5er like Ajriding suggested. When stored it sits at 13.6-13.8volts float. I have been monitoring it and feel comfortable leaving it running over the Winter.

[opnspaces]

Yes solar or even cheaper with a second disconnect switch at the batteries.

If you go for the second disconnect make sure you wire it so that the emergency breakaway if equipped still has power. So you wiring path should be (Positive terminal --> emergency breakaway --> cutoff switch --> trailer)

The emergency breakaway doesn't pull any power unless the pin is pulled. You want the breakaway to function even if you forget to connect the batteries before towing.

[ajriding]

Solar , yes.

15 watts might be enough to just tend it. I'd go 50 since it is winter an overcast and low angle of the sun.

Why not just spend a little more and have a full functioning solar system? 200 watts minimum, a good controller (MPPT or PWM) and 10-12 gauge wires.

Even if I am in a campground I will not plug in unless I want to run the AC, this is because their electrical might be so dirty it could damage my camper… Solar gives you options

[PNW_Steve]

wa8yxm wrote:
I like the solar charger idea. say a 100 watt panel should handle most if not all. monitor the voltage (battery) and if you see it start to drop go to 200 watts of panel but I think 100 will do it. DO not forget a good charge controller for a 100 watt panel you need a 10 amp controller minimum. I'd not go bigger than 20 amp for the controller or the loss in the box will be too great. MPPT is best.

Don't follow my example....... I was in a pinch for storage so I moved my Bluebird to a lot with no power. I knew I needed a battery maintainer but to get me by until I ordered one I connected a stray 80 watt panel directly to the batteries (3x group 31) with no charge controller.

I got away with it. I think that if it had not been November -December in the Seattle area I would have boiled three batteries... Shame on me for taking two months to get the correct maintainer....

[camperdave]

Solar would be a good idea. I go simple and disconnect the battery cable between my batteries (dual 6 volters) when in storage. One nut, only takes a minute on mine.

[PNW_Steve]

Google "solar battery tender"

It's a small solar panel and charge controller that simply floats the battery.

I would recommed that you top your batteries with DISTILLED WATER while you are preparing for storage and again at the beginning of next season.

[memtb]

I, also think that the solar charger is a great option. But, make certain that your charge controller has a “float” mode, as “”not” to overcharge (cook) your batteries. I went really cheap on my hydraulic dump trailer ( no electrical power where I keep it parked), a very small panel, and an “el-cheapo” controller. Ruined a battery in less than two years. memtb

[Sam_Spade]

How far away from the nearest outlet IS it ?

I suggest that a long extension cord and a small "Battery Tender", or equivalent, maintenance charger would be best. Probably would keep them charged OK if connected only a day or two a month.

[wa8yxm]

I like the solar charger idea. say a 100 watt panel should handle most if not all. monitor the voltage (battery) and if you see it start to drop go to 200 watts of panel but I think 100 will do it. DO not forget a good charge controller for a 100 watt panel you need a 10 amp controller minimum. I'd not go bigger than 20 amp for the controller or the loss in the box will be too great. MPPT is best.