Laarning lots- what else do I need?

[kaffi311]

I have a Jayco Eagle class C- setting her up for towing a 2014 Honda CR-V. Read lots here- and am going with the ReadyBrute Elite tow bar and a Blue Ox baseplate. Can you tell me what else I need to order? Brother will be installing- just want to make sure I get everything. Oh- ordering 2 Clevis Connectors as well. Thanks all- single woman RV'er here- finally setting up a dingy and SO excited !!!

[lanerd]

sch911 wrote:

lanerd wrote:

sch911 wrote:
What about a braking system? I'm betting your chassis requires one when towing over 1K.

I think you're confused on this subject. The type of chassis you have has nothing to do with having a toad braking system. The type of chassis does indeed have a tow weight limit plus a hitch weight limit. However, supplemental brakes are typically a state requirement where some have a "trailer" weight limit that requires supplemental brakes and may consider your toad as a "trailer". In other states they have a distance/speed stopping requirement that if you exceed requires toad supplements braking.

Also, as previously mentioned, the OP is getting the ReadyBrute Elite tow bar which has a built in surge braking system...therefore no additional toad braking devices are required.

Hope this makes it a little more understandable.

Ron

Not confused at all. Every chassis has a rating as to how much it can tow without a braking system and most are set to 1K. Has nothig to do with state law. Has only to do with the chassis manufacturers rated ability to stop a towed load. 4 down vs. Dolly vs. Conventional trailer doesn't matter either.

I have owned several motor homes with each a different chassis. I have yet to see anywhere in the specifications, owner's manual, or chassis manual where it states that it is rated for how much it can tow without a braking system. Can you point out to me where I might find this info?

thanks,

Ron

[DryCreek]

THE RVI Ready Brute Elite system will come with a pair of coiled safety cables.

The surge brake system works very well, just make absolutely sure that you have the 2" droop in the actuator cable.

An inexpensive and simple solution for toad lights are the magnetic base ones available from Harbor Freight. They are usually on sale for around $9.

[sch911]

lanerd wrote:

sch911 wrote:
What about a braking system? I'm betting your chassis requires one when towing over 1K.

I think you're confused on this subject. The type of chassis you have has nothing to do with having a toad braking system. The type of chassis does indeed have a tow weight limit plus a hitch weight limit. However, supplemental brakes are typically a state requirement where some have a "trailer" weight limit that requires supplemental brakes and may consider your toad as a "trailer". In other states they have a distance/speed stopping requirement that if you exceed requires toad supplements braking.

Also, as previously mentioned, the OP is getting the ReadyBrute Elite tow bar which has a built in surge braking system...therefore no additional toad braking devices are required.

Hope this makes it a little more understandable.

Ron

Not confused at all. Every chassis has a rating as to how much it can tow without a braking system and most are set to 1K. Has nothig to do with state law. Has only to do with the chassis manufacturers rated ability to stop a towed load. 4 down vs. Dolly vs. Conventional trailer doesn't matter either.

[Larryr201]

I just finished setting up 2014 CR-V awd yesterday. For tail lights I used Hopkins (RM-56304) it has built-in diodes and is Honda specific. I used the RoadMaster Brake-Lite Relay (88400) I installed a Battery charge line that supplies constant power to battery of car so that battery does not drain while being towed. For Brake system I went with RViBrake.
Take a look at etrailer.com They have great how-to Videos specif to the 2014 Honda CRV. Thats where I learned how to install every conponent to set up my CR-V and of course doing what you are and asking the RV community for advise. Good Luck!

[lanerd]

I've always used diodes. Simple and effective.

Ron

[mowermech]

kaffi311 wrote:
Thanks all. Now just a little confused about lights. Taillight or diode. Which is better ?

IMO, there is no "better" or "best". There is only personal preference.
I always had the towing wire harness on my Jeeps installed with a 4 pin flat connector next to or behind the driver's seat. I simply unplugged the vehicle wire harness and plugged it to the towing harness.
I once had a Datsun pickup that I installed a selector switch in the dash. It had a guard on it so that with the guard down, the switch was in the "normal" position; with the guard up, and the switch flipped, the lights were connected to the towing harness.
I have never used diodes or installing extra bulbs in the taillights.

[kaffi311]

Thanks all. Now just a little confused about lights. Taillight or diode. Which is better ?

[lanerd]

sch911 wrote:
What about a braking system? I'm betting your chassis requires one when towing over 1K.

I think you're confused on this subject. The type of chassis you have has nothing to do with having a toad braking system. The type of chassis does indeed have a tow weight limit plus a hitch weight limit. However, supplemental brakes are typically a state requirement where some have a "trailer" weight limit that requires supplemental brakes and may consider your toad as a "trailer". In other states they have a distance/speed stopping requirement that if you exceed requires toad supplements braking.

Also, as previously mentioned, the OP is getting the ReadyBrute Elite tow bar which has a built in surge braking system...therefore no additional toad braking devices are required.

Hope this makes it a little more understandable.

Ron

[tropical_ron]

On our 2010 honda crv we had to install a switch for fuse #34. Without this switch to turn off fuse 34 we experienced a dead battery after a day of towing. The problem is that the ignition has to be turned on one click to allow steering wheel to turn. Doing so causes the radio/clock circuit (fuse#34) to drain the battery. Easy fix, switch as advertised at roadmaster website. Other vendors may also have similar fix.

[RichNewcome]

It is nice to have an LED indicator light in the cab to indicate when the toad brakes are being applied. Your Ready Brake tow bar will have a switch that closes when the actuator arm pulls the braking cable, but many, myself included, prefer to have the indicator light controlled by the toad brakes, either from the brake pedal switch or the stop light circuit. This is very handy for getting the cable length adjusted and for determining if the system is working the way you want it to.

[mowermech]

The "umbilical cord" is the connector and cord for the lights and turn signals, that plugs into the socket on the back of the motorhome. It is not the same as the safety cables or chains.
NSA makes a breakaway system to match the Ready Brute Elite integrated towbar/braking system. IIRC, the cost is an extra $100. While not required by law in most states, it is a good idea to have it.

[kaffi311]

lanerd wrote:
The only other thing you'll need are a light hookup, umbilical cord (with connectors) and safety cables (or chains). You've made a good choice with the ReadyBrute.

Ron

Whats an umbilical cord? Sounds the same as safety cables? Break away system?

[kaffi311]

As I understand it, the Elite has a braking system within it- no need for anything else.

[sch911]

What about a braking system? I'm betting your chassis requires one when towing over 1K.