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Motorcycle trailer

AnFear
Explorer
Explorer
Hi, looking for some quick advice. I plan on reading through these post when I get some time.
Looking to buy a trailer tomorrow. Looking at a 5x8 enclosed motorcycle trailer. Will be pulling it with a 2002 Roadtrek 190. Dodge with the 318. Motorcycle weighs 465lbs. Will also be carrying some tools. Maybe a small air compressor. Likely will add a house battery and possibly a solar panel in the future. I realize it's hard to give any advice without providing any weights but hoping someone can help with some quick general advice.
Thanks.
20 REPLIES 20

AnFear
Explorer
Explorer
So, I checked the unladen weight and GVWR and I'm under the legal limit. Not really what I was concerned about but good to know, Thanks. Thing is i was originally going to buy a trailer without brakes. I'm glad I got them but the brake controller is an unexpected cost especially the install. I think I can install it myself in a couple of months when I have more time. I just want to know if using a 4pin to 7pin adapter will get me going or if I'm missing something.
I didn't think of running the E-trac vertically. That will give me a lot more options for securing whatever I put in there, thanks. I think I'll have the trailer place do that a couple (six?) inches in from the corners. I can always add more later If I find I need it.

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
In New York a trailer weighing more that 1000 lbs is required to have brakes.

http://drivinglaws.aaa.com/tag/trailer-brakes/
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP

Bedlam
Moderator
Moderator
Legally it may not be correct to bypass a trailer with brakes, but if you keep the weight of the loaded trailer weight under your state laws for needing brakes, you will be acting in the spirit of the law instead of the letter.

I ran my e-track vertically (5' strips) on the walls instead of horizontally. In my 20' trailer, I have four vertical runs on each long wall. One side of my track is screwed through wallboard into the vertical sidewall ribs and the other side is only in the wallboard. Self tapping screws and a cordless screwdriver make fast work of this install.

Host Mammoth 11.5 on Ram 5500 HD

AnFear
Explorer
Explorer
Ok, bought a 5x8 V-nose. I have two quick questions. The trailer comes with brakes. Am I right to think that I can just get a four pin to seven pin adapter for the van and use it for a few months until I learn about brake controllers?
Second, the trailer has four D-rings mounted to the floor with metal backing plates under the trailer. I'm going to use those along with a front tire roll in wheel chock to secure the bike. I want to add some E-trak along the walls to be able to secure other miscellaneous items. Will probably add more E-trak in the future. So my question is, is there a recommended height for mounting the E-trak? I'm thinking maybe 12" up from the floor and then adding some later above it.
Thanks again. I'm sure this has been answered before but I'm kind of rushed right now. Thanks

AnFear
Explorer
Explorer
Well if my van had a Cummins in it I might,lol.
I plan on doing a lot of boondocking and some urban area over nights. Trying not to stand out for one thing. I think I'm going to stick with the 8 foot length and maybe go with more width,6feet. Thanks

tinner12002
Explorer
Explorer
If your wanting to haul 2 bikes I would recommend to have a 7ft wide by 10 or 12 ft. That way you have room to get around bikes to strap down and have other smallish item too. V-nose is nice. I pulled a few trailers for a company and found that there is a small benefit to mileage with the v-nose. I currently have a 7x14 v-nose bike trailer and love it...just the right amount of room.
2015 Ram 3500/DRW/Aisin/auto/Max tow/4.10s,Cummins, stock Laramie Limited--Silver
Tequila Sunrise 2012 Ultra Classic Limited
2018 Raptor 428SP

AnFear
Explorer
Explorer
Ok. I should have done some more research. I'm leaving January 1st and moving full time into the Roadtrek. Finalized this decision around two months ago. Was originally going to wait a few years and just travel by motorcycle but circumstances have changed. No excuse, just an explanation.
So I need to get a trailer. The place I found: http://www.cargotrailernj.com/ will make a trailer in four weeks (they claim). I can chose the size but not much else. Torsion bar axle sounds like the way to go but I don't think it's an option. At least they have drop axle's. Before reading these posts I was going to try and pack light. Now I'm thinking more weight (below it's rating) will make things more stable. I also was going to have the seller install four D-rings at $35 apiece. Forgot about E-track but now I'm not sure I have time to install that properly before I leave. Just found out about these WD hitchs. Looks like I can add that later as well. As far as seeing the trailer in the mirrors I was thinking of a rear facing camera and planning ahead while driving to minimize backing up.
I just want to say here that this forum is a great resource. Hope in the future as I learn more I can add as well as take from it.
Thanks.

Bedlam
Moderator
Moderator
I suggest getting a trailer that is as wide and almost as high as your Roadtrek. This will maximize space yet not affect wind drag and still allow you see it when backing. I prefer the wheels tucked into the trailer body instead of dealing with additional width and not getting that additional space inside (even though you have the interior wheel well obstruction).

As others have posted, a torsion axle will allow the trailer to ride much better than a solid axle plus you can often find these trailers with a drop axle configuration that allows them sit lower to the ground. This makes for a more stable trailer plus minimizes ramp and break over angles. A single 3500 lb torsion axle would work well for your your application, but you may want look into the 5000 lb version to give you some extra capacity if your needs were to change later. With either choice, get electric brakes for the axle so you have adjustability through the gain control and do not have to rely on the Roadtrek brakes for the additional weight.

Although you may not need a WDH to tow your trailer, consider one if the rear end sags on your Roadtrek. This will keep your current ride comfort verses adding on to the suspension and making the rear stiffer.

I run three lengths of E-track on my trailer floor and run vertical strips of track up the walls to tie down other loose items. Because I carry a variety of vehicles, I like the versatility of adjustable anchor points verses fixed.

Host Mammoth 11.5 on Ram 5500 HD

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
deltabravo wrote:


If I knew what I "roadtrek" is, I'd know how wide or narrow they are.

I sold my 5x8 because it was a nuisance to back up, it was impossible to se behind my rig, so i was basing my comment on my experience.

A Roadtrek is a van based motorhome.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
Sam Spade wrote:
deltabravo wrote:
and because it's narrow and you won't see it in the mirrors until it starts to jackknife


Not true at all.
I can see mine just fine as soon as it starts to turn.
That is way before it gets to the jackknife stage.


If I knew what I "roadtrek" is, I'd know how wide or narrow they are.

I sold my 5x8 because it was a nuisance to back up, it was impossible to se behind my rig, so i was basing my comment on my experience.
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

GottaRunGottaCa
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 6' x 10' V-nose that is tall enough for a full dressed touring bike, plenty of room for one motorcycle, a couple years later my wife got her own bike, we can put both of them in there but it is a real PITA, so if you have a possibility of a second motorcycle you should get at least a 7' x 12', I also put e-track on the floor (three places full length of the trailer) for tie downs.
I hope this helps
:C
2016 F350
2019 Heartland Torque TQ-371

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
deltabravo wrote:
and because it's narrow and you won't see it in the mirrors until it starts to jackknife


Not true at all.
I can see mine just fine as soon as it starts to turn.
That is way before it gets to the jackknife stage.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
The nice thing is with a Roadtrek it I tall enough that a trailer will have no impact on wind drag. get what you want and be happy. Are you sure your van has the 5.2 and not the 5.9 (360)? either way the 5.2 is more than up to the task of hauling another 2k lbs.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

AnFear
Explorer
Explorer
Wow. Didn't think off all that. I looked at a bigger trailer. My original idea was to bring two bikes. Might have to re think this. Problem is I'm a little pressed for time.
I guess my main concern is with a bigger trailer I'm worried about gas millage and wear on the engine. I have a light foot when accelerating and have no problem putting along at 55/65 MPH as long as I'm not blocking traffic. Would't be able to handle any major engine work financially for awhile.