need general advice
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-21-2015 06:29 PM
New Winnebago View 24M. Pulled a 5er for over a decade. We want to be able to tow our 4WD Wrangler. Need suggestions on tow bar, baseplate, and supplemental breaking. I want EASY and safe to use.
Also, from what I can guess, I will need to have the jeep key in accessory mode, so the front wheels are not locked. I assume the connection from hot connection on coach to toad will keep battery from dying.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Steve
2015 Winnebago View
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Aug-03-2015 08:09 AM
Steve
2015 Winnebago View
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-23-2015 07:11 AM
steveandjil wrote:
Dear All,
Do this brings up an obvious stupid question that only now occurred to me. Does the engine have to be on in the toad for any of these mechanical (ready brake, or brake buddy like device) to work? You certainly can get braking in a power assist brake vehicle w/o engine on, but it is very stiff if no vacuum assist.
Sorry for the dumb questions - a decade pulling a 5er with electric brakes never taught me this stuff...
Steve
not a dumb question. short answer, no. in my case we use the Unified Tow Brake from US Gear. it uses our Jeep's power braking system and is powered from the Jeep's battery.
Ham Radio, Sport Pilot, Retired 9-1-1 Call Center Administrator
_________________________________
2016 Itasca Suncruiser 38Q
'46 Willys CJ2A
'23 Jeep Wrangler JL
'10 Jeep Liberty KK
& MaggieThe Wonder Beagle
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-23-2015 06:50 AM
Do this brings up an obvious stupid question that only now occurred to me. Does the engine have to be on in the toad for any of these mechanical (ready brake, or brake buddy like device) to work? You certainly can get braking in a power assist brake vehicle w/o engine on, but it is very stiff if no vacuum assist.
Sorry for the dumb questions - a decade pulling a 5er with electric brakes never taught me this stuff...
Steve
2015 Winnebago View
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-23-2015 05:45 AM
Greater Boston Area
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-23-2015 05:36 AM
After 4 years of towing with it, I did learn one thing a few months ago. The first time I braked after hooking up the car, it would buck and jerk. But it was only the first time. Never again. Someone posted on here about "bleeding the vacuum" by pumping the brakes. That made sense. Since the brakes are assisted by the vacuum, running the engine while driving to the back of the RV and adjusting its position left vacuum in the vacuum lines. This caused excessive braking the first time. I now pump the brakes a few times after hooking up and it never does that anymore. Of course, that applies to ANY braking system that pulls the brake pedal without providing vacuum assist, not just the Ready Brake.
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-22-2015 06:09 PM
Thanks so much for the advice - first it is great to hear no steering lock. I just never checked (my bad.) Re the tow bars and base plate, my gut is they all do the trick, and the question is some seem a bit easier than others. Re the supplemental brake, I love the look of these various systems installed in the engine compartment. I was a bit unsure of the kinds that manually push in the brake pedal - I'm sure they work as needed, but this just seems a whole lot cleaner.
How happy are people with the ready brute system - seems a bit crazy that it works, but I suppose it must. Certainly a winner in the "bang for the buck" category if it does the job.
Steve
2015 Winnebago View
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-22-2015 05:14 PM
They all come with chipped keys, so they can't be started. No need for a steering wheel lock. Just put transfer case in neutral, transmission in Park, take out key, and go.
2004 Jeep Liberty Dinghy
Snowbirds 2014
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-22-2015 12:51 PM
The TJ series (1997 to 2006) and some of the earlier JK series (introduced in 2007) have steering wheel locks. All you have to do to be sure the system is unlocked is to put the key in and turn it forward 1 position. The steering is then unlocked, but the ignition is not on.
A chipped ignition key was an option for the TJ series. If you have the option you need a key with a chip to start the engine. Again if you have that option all you need to do is go to a locksmith (or possibly a hardware store) and have them copy your key onto a non-chipped blank. The key will turn in the ignition, the engine will crank, but it won't start.
If you don't have the chipped key option you can lower the glove compartment and remove the #4 fuse. It's for the ignition system. The engine will crank but not start.
If you have the later version of the JK there is no steering lock, so you can just remove the key.
We use the Roadmaster 9060 towing system. It's a great proportional system, however it takes a fair amount of time and room in the motorhome to install. I like the system, but there are many newer systems on the market that are easier to install an take up less room.
2013 Winnebago Adventurer
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-22-2015 12:00 PM
To tow, we hook up the Jeep, put the transfer case in neutral, put the transmission in 5th, and release the emergency brake. No problem with battery drain, no problem with steering lock (there isn't one).
2014 Fleetwood Bounder 33C
States camped: all but Hawaii
more than 1700 days on the road
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-22-2015 07:51 AM
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-22-2015 06:08 AM
steveandjil wrote:
Hi Folks,
New Winnebago View 24M. Pulled a 5er for over a decade. We want to be able to tow our 4WD Wrangler. Need suggestions on tow bar, baseplate, and supplemental breaking. I want EASY and safe to use.
Also, from what I can guess, I will need to have the jeep key in accessory mode, so the front wheels are not locked. I assume the connection from hot connection on coach to toad will keep battery from dying.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Steve
we use a Blue Ox towbar and baseplate with our '03 wrangler or '10 liberty. the supplemental brake is from US Gear.
Ham Radio, Sport Pilot, Retired 9-1-1 Call Center Administrator
_________________________________
2016 Itasca Suncruiser 38Q
'46 Willys CJ2A
'23 Jeep Wrangler JL
'10 Jeep Liberty KK
& MaggieThe Wonder Beagle
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-22-2015 04:52 AM
2016 Thor Hurricane 35C with our pups MacDuff, Piper and Annabelle
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-22-2015 04:06 AM
However, I have done a lot of reading on this subject and our 2014 JKU.
The 2011 (?) and newer Wranglers do not require the key in ignition. So just place the keys in your console.
I decided on the Readybrute and Currie baseplate. I like the looks of the Currie as it looks like a skid plate and is reasonably priced. I also like the Readybrute because everything is all-in-one and I don't have air brakes so the AF1 was not even a thought.
I was opting for the MOPAR wiring kit because I like simple plug and be done set ups. I wasn't into wiring diodes or light bars on our JEEP.
I happened to find a great price on a used set up in another forum and it just happens to come with the Cooltech wiring harness, so that will work.
I am planning to install the kit myself as it appears to be pretty easy to do so with this set up. I read of people paying around $1000 to have their kits installed which is mind-blowing to me.
I am a bit nervous about the first outing with the JKU attached but am excited to finally be able to go out and explore areas off the campsite.
- Mark as New
- Bookmark
- Subscribe
- Mute
- Subscribe to RSS Feed
- Permalink
- Report Inappropriate Content
Jan-22-2015 03:27 AM
Greater Boston Area