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New Andersen WD hitch

JBarca
Nomad II
Nomad II
A fellow camper bud showed me this. It's new and different.

Anyone using one?

Andersen WD hitches

A U-tube video with the factory guy explaining it. You have to get past MR Truck doing his intro. Interesting 5th wheel hitch too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvM7mCnqmwo&feature=related

It looks like this



I'll hold my comments for a short while to not cloud your thoughts. Ideally we can find someone here using one to quiz them on it.

John
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.
514 REPLIES 514

zues
Explorer
Explorer
My coupler will not open with tension on the chains

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
rexlion wrote:
Ok, if you have an Andersen, will you please try undoing and redoing your coupler latch while hooked up? You may recall I posted earlier that the guy at the local trailer repair shop claimed there was no pressure put on the latch pawl by the chain tension. I'd sure like to find out if he was telling me straight.


Yes, please post and note the milage on both the Anderson an trailer
coupler

That latch is where I feel will become an issue over time. It will NOT
fail instantly, nor soon, but all too soon.

Ask if you can re-latch it too.

Suggest anyone who has this WD Hitch system to re-check their latch
often and inspect for wear and tear.

The worry is not just a busted latch, but that is where the ball has
to be in order to allow the ball to drop out of the coupler dome...back
away from the front of the coupler dome
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

rexlion
Explorer
Explorer
Ok, if you have an Andersen, will you please try undoing and redoing your coupler latch while hooked up? You may recall I posted earlier that the guy at the local trailer repair shop claimed there was no pressure put on the latch pawl by the chain tension. I'd sure like to find out if he was telling me straight.
Mike G.
Liberty is meaningless where the right to utter one's thoughts and opinions has ceased to exist. That, of all rights, is the dread of tyrants. --Frederick Douglass
photo: Yosemite Valley view from Taft Point

mrad
Explorer II
Explorer II
I ordered one of these hitches yesterday. it should ship by the end of the week. I am anxious to see how it works. My 1,000/10,000 lb. equalizer is not big enough for my new TT.

Clanton24V
Explorer
Explorer
That's good to hear. Look forward to hearing your impressions

PHS79
Explorer
Explorer
On Monday night I emailed Andersen Hitches with a few questions. I today I got a call from their area rep. After talking with Jason Green for about 30mins I decided to order the Andersen WD hitch. Jason with very informative, he answered all my questions and the some. I should have the hitch early next week. I won't be able to post back about how it actually does for a while, but once I get a chance to use it I will let you all know.
2004 F150 FX4, with lots of mods and way too much money dumped into the truck for said mods
2013 Passport 3220BH
old TTs:
2012 Grey Wolf 26BH
2001 Kodiak K215

Clanton24V
Explorer
Explorer
I got back from my second trip out with the new trailer and hitch. I am very happy with this hitch. I am tempted to try and not have to mess with the chains but they really haven't been a big hastle I just crank it the same amount as before. And because it's still so new to me I take quick measurements of the wheels to make sure I'm still within specs. My next trip out will be about 2.5hrs 1 way with varrying road conditions and curves so it should be a food test. I have that trip coming up in about a month.

PHS79
Explorer
Explorer
I am in the market for my first WD hitch and I am seriously considering the Andersen hitch. Granted my TT (2012 Grey Wolf 26BH) is fairly light with a gvw of only 7500 lbs and a "dry hitch" weight of 402 lbs. And my 2004 F150 FX4 towed it home easily even with 35 mph crosswinds for about 10 miles the day we picked it up.

I was also thinking that for me hooking and unhooking I may not even have to loosen the chains at all. I have Ride-Rite bags under the rear of my truck, so between the bags and the electric tongue jack I should be able to just set up the tension on the chains once and shouldnt have to mess with them again. Maybe....

But if I keep hearing reviews like the few I have read here I think I may take the plunge and order the Andersen.
2004 F150 FX4, with lots of mods and way too much money dumped into the truck for said mods
2013 Passport 3220BH
old TTs:
2012 Grey Wolf 26BH
2001 Kodiak K215

JBarca
Nomad II
Nomad II
Bruce H wrote:




Hi Bruce,

Just made it back from camping and it seems you have been busy. Super data! :C

You are on the right track, best of luck to you. You are now starting to understand how WD works. Good for you.

For us techy types, your data is the 1st we have actually seen on how this hitch works with WD. We now have some folks out there using the hitch and are responding back which is really good.

If I added up the users right we have 2 ORF members using 2500 suspension towing , 1 using a F150 and you on your Honda Pilot. That is a range...

It would be interesting to see the scale data with spring compression like you have listed on a 800#, 1,000# or 1,200# tongue weight as a comparison.

You used 1/4" of compression on a 400# TW. Small rear overhang, short WB and short ball to TT axle distance. According to this sales video it was listed 1/4" is about 2,000# (see at the 3:22 time mark) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvM7mCnqmwo&feature=related

There is no reference to what TV, TW or trailer that 1/4" = 2000# lines up with. If you where using 1/4" and now on 3/16 to 1/8", really curious on what the higher TW's would use.

I have used urethane springs as punch strippers in the past. Very common and Andersen even states this. http://www.polyprod.com/closed-end-punch-inch.html

Just I have not used these like a compression spring as being used here. The durometer, free length and size changes the force. On the bottom of this page are some force graphs of these common in the industry. http://www.polyprod.com/inch-tube-springs.html We do not know which spring Andersen is using other then 1/4" compression is about 2,000#.

Hopefully one of our members with a heavier TW can make it to the scales and report back.

This same hitch has a max rating of 1,400# tongue weight and there does not seem to be a change in ordering for any size less then this. At this point we can see it goes down to a 400# TW.

Thanks for sharing and good luck on your trip.

John
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.

Bruce_H_
Explorer
Explorer
Ron,

We are leaving on a several day camping trip tomorrow--about 400 miles total. I will try both 1/8" and 3/16" urethane spring compression settings, and maybe even something in between, and and see if I can find that sweet spot where everything seems just right.

Thanks,

Bruce
2012 Lance 1575 TT pulled by 2013 4WD Expedition with HD Tow Package

Bruce_H_
Explorer
Explorer
Ron Gratz wrote:
If you adjust your new WDH so the front end of the TV is returned to a height of 1/8 - 1/4" above the unhitched value,
you would be achieving a good compromise between what Equal-i-zer and Ford now specify.



Hi Ron,

Thank you very much for your information and advice. It inspired me to spend much of yesterday trying to fine-tune the measurements and weights. Thank goodness the nice folks at the Flying J are tolerant of my numerous trips through their CAT scale.

You suggested that 1/8 to 1/4" increase in wheel well height over the unloaded height would be optimal.

I focused yesterday on the measurements and weighs with 1/8" and 3/16" spring compressions. At 3/16" spring compression, the front wheel well was 1/4" higher than the unloaded height. At 1/8" spring compression, the front wheel well was 7/16" higher than the unloaded height.

I have updated the spreadsheet with the new information and again attached it as a photo. Hopefully sized correctly this time.

Thanks again for your great help.

Bruce H.

2012 Lance 1575 TT pulled by 2013 4WD Expedition with HD Tow Package

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Explorer
JBarca wrote:
Bruce H. wrote:
John,

Thank so much for your response--just the kind of informed feedback I was hoping for. You make reference to the new SAE guidelines for weight distribution. I googled it but so far haven't come up with anything specific to weight distribution. Can you provide me with a link? I most definitely want to be within the SAE guidelines.
Ron Gratz may have this handy and post. I know he has referenced this before.---
Bruce,

As far as I can tell, the forthcoming
SAE J2807 "Performance Requirements for Determining Tow-Vehicle Gross Combination Weight Rating and Trailer Weight Rating"
does not give direct guidance for weight distribution.

I do know that Equal-i-zer, about two years ago, updated its weight distribution recommendations.
And, according to this post by ORF member typerr,
the change in philosophy was based on results of testing conducted by SAE and RVIA.
About the same time, Ford revised its recommendations for its F-Series trucks.

If you adjust your new WDH so the front end of the TV is returned to a height of 1/8 - 1/4" above the unhitched value,
you would be achieving a good compromise between what Equal-i-zer and Ford now specify.

Ron

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Explorer
Andersen wrote:
The goal of the weight distribution system is to get the tow vehicle and trailer as level as you can.

IMO, the goal of weight distribution is to restore some or all of the load which was removed from the TV's front axle. The tow vehicle does not need to be "level". Leveling of the trailer should be done via hitch head height adjustment.



With that in mind, here is the OPTIMUM setting for most installations:

FRONT WHEEL WELL: the SAME or within 1" ABOVE the initial measurement you took on page 4

REAR WHEEL WELL: the SAME or LESS than the initial measurement (but not drastically less โ€“see next page).

IMO, suggesting that the WDH may be adjusted to make the rear wheel well height the SAME before and after indicates the manufacturer has a fundamental misunderstanding of how weight distribution works.

If the rear is the same height before and after, that means the rear springs essentially are carrying the same load before and after. IOW, no load has been added to the rear springs. If no load has been added to the rear springs, that means all the load added to the TV is added to the front springs, and that certainly would not be advisable.

The purpose of WD is to return the front end to, or slightly above, its unhitched height. When you get the front right, the rear end will take care of itself. If you don't like the resulting rear-end squat, air bags can be added. Of course, air must be added prior to adjusting the WDH.


Ron

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Explorer
Bruce H. wrote:
I adjusted the spring tension until the front fender was within 1/8", which amounted to 1/4" of spring compression. I am a newbie at this weight distribution stuff, but I am thinking that there may be a little too much weight distributed to the front axle and trailer axle. Would appreciate your input on this.
With no WD applied, the front height increased 5/8".
After application of WD, the front was up 1/8".
This means that application of WD eliminated 80% of the front-end rise.
For comparison, Ford now is specifying that WD should be adjusted to eliminate 50% of the rise, and
Equal-i-zer specifies that you should eliminate at lease 50% of the rise.

Since it appears that Honda recommends against using a WDH on the Pilot,
it might be good to shoot for a little bit less load distribution -- perhaps ending up with 1/4" front-end rise versus 1/8". Placing too much load back onto the front axle can result in a tendency toward oversteer, and oversteer, when towing, is not a good thing.

There is nothing wrong with having 1-2" of rear-end squat.

Ron

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Not trying to unseat Ron as "King of Links" but here is a link to SAE J684 the new standard which replaces the V5 standard.

Here is a good explanation of hitch standards.
Barney
Edit: Not sure the link I gave above is correct. Ron gives a reference to the new standard (SAE J2807 - I think) in the next page or this thread. I am not sure as to the exact wording as I have not purchased a copy of it.
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine