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New Andersen WD hitch

JBarca
Nomad II
Nomad II
A fellow camper bud showed me this. It's new and different.

Anyone using one?

Andersen WD hitches

A U-tube video with the factory guy explaining it. You have to get past MR Truck doing his intro. Interesting 5th wheel hitch too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvM7mCnqmwo&feature=related

It looks like this



I'll hold my comments for a short while to not cloud your thoughts. Ideally we can find someone here using one to quiz them on it.

John
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.
514 REPLIES 514

Atlee
Explorer II
Explorer II
No that wasn't me. I haven't hooked mine up yet due to ordering the incorrect sized bracket. I ordered a hitch that had the 5-6" brackets. Unfortunately, I didn't measure mine. My A frame is 4 inches. I'll start putting it together tomorrow after work.

BenK wrote:
Atlee wrote:
snip...
Sorry to hear this. I hope it doesn't bode poorly for me. I get the replacement brackets today. (ordered the wrong size initially). I'll have a better than good idea how my Andersen works after Memorial Day Weekend.

We have to go to Orlando, and we're pulling the TT. While I'll not have to contend with any mountains, there will be lots of 18 wheelers to deal with.

I do have a longer wheel base TV. F150 w/ 6.5 ft box, 144.5" WB. Also the TT is just 5500# GVWR.

We'll see how it goes.


Are you the one who had those Andersen TT Tongue brackets slide posted
on one of the other Andersen System threads?

If so, note that when those brackets slide, they reduce or even lose
all of the plastic bushing (spring) force, which then reduce the amount
of WD forces on the Ball/Shank

There are two set screws that needs to gouge into the TT's tongue
member (Channel or square tube).

They then become the holding mechanism for the Andersen system to
do it's WD forces. The also become pivot points that has those brackets
pivot on to wedge themselves into the TT's tongue member.

Now that I've written this and thought a bit more....you folks with
this WD system should re-check those two set screws (bolts with pointed
ends that gouge themselves into the TT's tongue) often till the stop
loosening. Also, now thinking about it, re-paint that contact area
Erroll, Mary
2021 Coachmen Freedom Express 20SE
2014 F150 Supercab 4x4 w/ 8' box, Ecoboost & HD Pkg
Equal-i-zer Hitch

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Atlee wrote:
snip...
Sorry to hear this. I hope it doesn't bode poorly for me. I get the replacement brackets today. (ordered the wrong size initially). I'll have a better than good idea how my Andersen works after Memorial Day Weekend.

We have to go to Orlando, and we're pulling the TT. While I'll not have to contend with any mountains, there will be lots of 18 wheelers to deal with.

I do have a longer wheel base TV. F150 w/ 6.5 ft box, 144.5" WB. Also the TT is just 5500# GVWR.

We'll see how it goes.


Are you the one who had those Andersen TT Tongue brackets slide posted
on one of the other Andersen System threads?

If so, note that when those brackets slide, they reduce or even lose
all of the plastic bushing (spring) force, which then reduce the amount
of WD forces on the Ball/Shank

There are two set screws that needs to gouge into the TT's tongue
member (Channel or square tube).

They then become the holding mechanism for the Andersen system to
do it's WD forces. The also become pivot points that has those brackets
pivot on to wedge themselves into the TT's tongue member.

Now that I've written this and thought a bit more....you folks with
this WD system should re-check those two set screws (bolts with pointed
ends that gouge themselves into the TT's tongue) often till the stop
loosening. Also, now thinking about it, re-paint that contact area
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Atlee
Explorer II
Explorer II
tim and amy wrote:
Well I'm eating crow on this one. I can't seem to get this hitch system adjusted to save my life. Luckily it has been slightly windy here, wind is only at 16mph currently. Just made a loop at 45-50 mph. The excursion was getting blown around quite a bit. I'm throwing in the towel on this hitch system. I hope mrad has better luck than I for the same setup. Not worth a white knuckle drive in my opinion.
I think this system might be a good setup for someone that doesn't own a ford excursion.
I'm off to camping world for a WD and sway system.


Sorry to hear this. I hope it doesn't bode poorly for me. I get the replacement brackets today. (ordered the wrong size initially). I'll have a better than good idea how my Andersen works after Memorial Day Weekend.

We have to go to Orlando, and we're pulling the TT. While I'll not have to contend with any mountains, there will be lots of 18 wheelers to deal with.

I do have a longer wheel base TV. F150 w/ 6.5 ft box, 144.5" WB. Also the TT is just 5500# GVWR.

We'll see how it goes.
Erroll, Mary
2021 Coachmen Freedom Express 20SE
2014 F150 Supercab 4x4 w/ 8' box, Ecoboost & HD Pkg
Equal-i-zer Hitch

carringb
Explorer
Explorer
tim and amy wrote:

I'm off to camping world for a WD and sway system.


Reese Dual Cam!

Seriously though. My weekend warrior (14k typical, up to 18k fully loaded) towed just as good using the Reese Dual cam, as it did with the Hensley which broke and I replaced with the Reese.
2000 Ford E450 V10 VAN! 450,000+ miles
2014 ORV really big trailer
2015 Ford Focus ST

tim_and_amy
Explorer
Explorer
Well I'm eating crow on this one. I can't seem to get this hitch system adjusted to save my life. Luckily it has been slightly windy here, wind is only at 16mph currently. Just made a loop at 45-50 mph. The excursion was getting blown around quite a bit. I'm throwing in the towel on this hitch system. I hope mrad has better luck than I for the same setup. Not worth a white knuckle drive in my opinion.
I think this system might be a good setup for someone that doesn't own a ford excursion.
I'm off to camping world for a WD and sway system.
2012 Kodiak 300BHSL Ultimate with Fall Edition Package
2003 Ford Excursion V10 Sold!!
2005 Ford Excursion 6.0L Diesel

mrad
Explorer II
Explorer II
daystrom wrote:
mrad,

After using both the Equalizer and Andersen and only considering the tow quality / anti-sway control, which is the better hitch?


Daystrom,
I don't know if I can give a fair comparison at this time. I had over 2,000 miles with the Equalizer and my new TT. It performed well. At this time I have about 140 miles with the Andersen in pretty much ideal conditions (minimal wind). With that said, it has performed as well as my Equalizer. I am waiting for a windy day to take it out on the freeway.
I am hoping it performs as well as the EQ because it is much easier to unhook and easier to adjust.

Sorry I can't give a better opinion. Next trip is in two weeks.

daystrom
Explorer
Explorer
mrad,

After using both the Equalizer and Andersen and only considering the tow quality / anti-sway control, which is the better hitch?
2012 Crossroads Zinger ZT26BH
2012 Ford F350 Lariat 4x4 6.7L PSD SRW
11,500 GVWR, 3522 lbs of payload

mrad
Explorer II
Explorer II
daystrom wrote:
What was your reason to change to the Andersen from the Equalizer?

My Equalizer was a 1,000/10,000 lb hitch. My new TT has a tongue weight in excess of 1,000lbs. My dealer thought I was close enough that I could keep the equalizer (even though I was ready to give him $700 last year to install a reese dual cam).

I wasn't comfortable with being up to 200 lbs over the rated weight.
A 1,400/14,000 equalizer would have been about $50 more than the Andersen which really wasn't an issue, however the Andersen is about 80 lbs lighter and appeared to be easier to set up.

After using it, I can tell you from experience it is much easier to install, adjust, and unhook.

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
tim and amy wrote:
I will post here for the simple fact that the above cut and paste information is taken out of context.
1. Pull back feeling. Even though I had my TV/TT on what I thought was level ground during set up, it was not. After towing to the coast and parking at the RV spot which was very level it was apparent my ball was 2" too low. This was causing the rear axle of the trailer to unload which was visually found when viewing the trailer fenders.
Correcting the ball height eliminated the pull back issue completely.

This is a new metric and will have to noodle this some more.

As the orientation of the tongue/ball/TV would seem not as important
for this WD system than traditional WD systems.

The orientation of the tongue should continue to matter in how the
trailer follows the TV though

In a traditional WD setup, level to slightly point down is good/best
and if pointing high, sway is more likely. Again, new metrics for this
new WD system that will need some more noodling



2. After reading and reviewing several posts, I am finding that I most likely do not have enough tension on the chains at this point, but I am with in range.

This is the WD forces...the bushing tension is the same as
the head tilt and number of links on the bars of a traditional WD system



The excursion is a capable tow vehicle, but I have never had a vehicle that was such a pain to deal with. I do not believe it is the hitch but the entire set up as a whole.

Also, base on my measurements I am outside the range of front wheel height. Once I dial this in on Sunday I will supply better data.

Please understand that the other thread is based on the fact that mrad and I not only the have the same TV but nearly identical trailers by size and weight requirements. That posting is to help both of us to understand how to set our vehicles up specifically and not argue symantics of Andersens' design or peoples opinions of said design.
I didn't want to post in this topic because I don't want to be part of a discussion that I don't agree with.



Here is my last post over at the other thread to keep continuity on
this one

BenK wrote:
Hope this helps folks visualize what is going on with this Andersen WD Hitch system

When towing, the TV does NOT pull via the ball, but via the ball's
shank bottom where that plate is attached.

Then that plate pulls via the chain against the plastic bushing (spring)

That then pulls the ball away from the coupler latch and then the ball
'might' contact the coupler front end...to then pull the trailer

once the trailer has caught up and matches the TV's speed, the bushing
will pull the ball back away from the coupler front and back into the
coupler latch.

-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

tim_and_amy
Explorer
Explorer
I will post here for the simple fact that the above cut and paste information is taken out of context.
1. Pull back feeling. Even though I had my TV/TT on what I thought was level ground during set up, it was not. After towing to the coast and parking at the RV spot which was very level it was apparent my ball was 2" too low. This was causing the rear axle of the trailer to unload which was visually found when viewing the trailer fenders.
Correcting the ball height eliminated the pull back issue completely.

2. After reading and reviewing several posts, I am finding that I most likely do not have enough tension on the chains at this point, but I am with in range.

The excursion is a capable tow vehicle, but I have never had a vehicle that was such a pain to deal with. I do not believe it is the hitch but the entire set up as a whole.

Also, base on my measurements I am outside the range of front wheel height. Once I dial this in on Sunday I will supply better data.

Please understand that the other thread is based on the fact that mrad and I not only the have the same TV but nearly identical trailers by size and weight requirements. That posting is to help both of us to understand how to set our vehicles up specifically and not argue symantics of Andersens' design or peoples opinions of said design.
I didn't want to post in this topic because I don't want to be part of a discussion that I don't agree with.
2012 Kodiak 300BHSL Ultimate with Fall Edition Package
2003 Ford Excursion V10 Sold!!
2005 Ford Excursion 6.0L Diesel

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Here is one of the newer threads on this Hitch System in hopes folks will post
on this thread to keep the continuity going

First tow with Anderen hitch & 9,000+ lbs TT

BenK wrote:
tim and amy wrote:
snip...


Towing to the coast I felt a lot of pull "back" from the trailer. Meaning in the dips the truck felt like it was being pulled backards on the rise.



Suspect that 'pulling back' is something most all users of this system
will encounter

As that is the way it works...you are pulling the trailer via the chain
and bushings.

The coupler 'front' does NOT contact the ball. So when you accelerate
the system compresses the bushing to have the ball leave contact of
the coupler latch (behind).

When the trailer 'catches up', the ball will be pulled 'back' into the
latch

Suggest you folks keep anything to do with this Anderson system on
the original thread. Otherwise, there will be many, many separate
threads to have it disassociated with the original. Okay if it has
been on the market a loooooooong time, but since fairly new, think
it would benefit all if consolidated on one thread.

Here is the original thread and the diagram that might help you understand
that 'back' feeling...if you haven't already read that thread. Will
also post this thread over there trying to keep the continuity

New Andersen WD Hitch, 29 pages to date

BenK wrote:
This is a quick and dirty vector diagram of how I see it working



Even if there is NOT slop (tolerance) in the coupler to ball...there will be over
time.

Then the wear of the friction material will allow the tapered shank to tilt
back and forth over time.

So in pulling the chain, it pushes the tongue against the ball via
where I say the pawl is. That then creates the same lever arm most
all other WD systems look like.

Then the TV pulls and the ball wants to go towards the coupler front
(away from the pawl). Then does the ball bang back and forth inside
the coupler?

{edit}...ops...put the bushing on the wrong side of the tongue bracket, but
think you guys know what I meant.

It is really difficult to see how it truly works without detailed
cross section diagrams or exploded assembly diagram

Go Brady !!!...home town kid just up the street from me
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

daystrom
Explorer
Explorer
What was your reason to change to the Andersen from the Equalizer?
2012 Crossroads Zinger ZT26BH
2012 Ford F350 Lariat 4x4 6.7L PSD SRW
11,500 GVWR, 3522 lbs of payload

mrad
Explorer II
Explorer II
My Anderson is supposed to arrive today. I will be making a 140 mile round trip to a campground this weekend and will be able to report on Monday. I currently have an Equalizer.

daystrom
Explorer
Explorer
The Andersen hitch has really intrigued me. Don't know if anyone has seen the full report from Mr. Truck with lots of pictures and video of it in action...Link Here


I happen to be shopping for a new WDH. I currently have a Robin Industries 1000 lb trunion bar with a single friction sway control bar.

The weight distribution is fine for my setup. It's the anti-sway that I have issues with. Any little bit of wind pushes the front of the trailer/rear of the truck causing me to constantly correct while on the road. With no winds my towing experience is fantastic. Even a passing truck is no real big deal. It's just the crosswinds that I have problems with.

This past week was an uncomfortable ride home. A combination of poor bumpy roads and crosswinds really gave me a work out in controlling the combo.

I'm looking at either the Equal-I-zer or the Andersen. What would be a better choice for me? Which would control crosswind movement better?

You can see my setup in my sig. Trailer weighs 6140 as built from the factory. No dealer installed options. I estimate loaded with food/clothes/supplies I am near 7000 lbs. Tongue is between 900-1000 lbs.

I'd like to stay under $500 for a new hitch setup so a Hesnley or ProPride is out of the question!
2012 Crossroads Zinger ZT26BH
2012 Ford F350 Lariat 4x4 6.7L PSD SRW
11,500 GVWR, 3522 lbs of payload

logistic
Explorer
Explorer
I used the allen set screws and they really crushed in the frame rails. The good news is they haven't moved at all in 2600+ miles. If I were to do the install again, I'd thru-bolt them too.

Clanton, I've seen Andersen's 5th wheel hitch and agree that it's a slick solution. I have a new F350 with factory hitch already installed though...
2004 Keystone Cougar 294-RLS (6125 lbs/675 lbs dry)
2011 Ford Expedition EL XLT HD Tow
2012 Ford F150 S-Crew EcoBoost XLT Max Tow