Question about toad diode wiring

[tommy_g]

I presently use magnetic tow lights and have for years. I'm thinking about diode wiring to the toad's tail and brake lights and a question to myself arose. I understand how a diode works on dc power(one way current flow only). My question of concern is about the output to the brake lights when I make a short stop that causes the Brake Buddy to activate. Since this would cause 12v to be applied from two different power sources(moho and toad) to the brake lights at the same time, would it just act like parallel batteries or could there be a problem?

[Dutch_12078]

I used diode packs in both our current and previous RAV4 toads, in fact, the same diode packs. I found the simplest place to install them was behind the driver's side kick panel where all the rearing wiring is routed. That saved having to run wires all the way to the rear, and also made it easy to fully light the car when in tow. The directionals use the amber lights and the red lights for the brakes as expected. Even the high center brake light works as it should. The Toyota dealer we bought our then new 2011 RAV4 from had no issues at all with the towing mods, including the lights and Remco lube pump, as far as any warranty issues.

[dubdub07]

FIRE UP wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:

jerseyjim wrote:
JoeH: I would have gone for the diodes....but like my previous post said, the RV mechanic told me what MIGHT happen with the (at that time) newer cars.

He would know...I wouldn't. He could have made some bucks from product and installation..but didn't. So...magnetic lights it is.

and I "assume" that there have been a bunch of electrical/wiring changes since 2011??????????????
bumpy

Yeah Bump,
There has been some wiring changes since '11. Mostly what's called "CAN-BUSS" CAN being Controller Area Network. It would take a page or two to explain it and, I'm not the one to do it. It's just a different way of making things work. But, goofing with it as in, say, adding RV wiring to it for toad lights the way I did it for decades is not the thing to do. This is why I, and many, many others have turned to factory aftermarket tow harnesses like Hopkins, Mopar, Blue Ox, Cooltech etc. They have figured out how to basically plug right into factory plugs with the right integrated circuitry and, not have any issues but yet, make the toads tail lights act the same when towing it, as they do when driving it. It's the only way to go, in my opinion. Waaaaaaaaaaaay cleaner than magnetic lights.
Scott

I have diodes in a 2013 and 2016. LOVE the diode setup and read the same issues with the newer vehicles but in the end it is only a simple 12v signal going to the toad from another source and the diode figures it out. Not a lot that can really go wrong, other than them not working. Mine work well, and I love the ease. I was so skeptical about diodes at first. Then I did my Cherokee after my magnetic ones blew off the Jeep. Yes, they blew off of the Jeep. No more of that ****. Diodes it was and I did my Taurus the same. So easy, and so much nicer.

WW

[Bumpyroad]

this sort of reminds me of those can I tow it 4 down threads where somebody sez, 'I saw a hupmobile being towed 4 down so I think mine will tow just fine". of course they don't know if it was stick/auto or had a drive shaft disconnect, installed ..or if it was a 4 x 4, etc.
bumpy

[FIRE_UP]

Bumpyroad wrote:

jerseyjim wrote:
JoeH: I would have gone for the diodes....but like my previous post said, the RV mechanic told me what MIGHT happen with the (at that time) newer cars.

He would know...I wouldn't. He could have made some bucks from product and installation..but didn't. So...magnetic lights it is.

and I "assume" that there have been a bunch of electrical/wiring changes since 2011??????????????
bumpy

Yeah Bump,
There has been some wiring changes since '11. Mostly what's called "CAN-BUSS" CAN being Controller Area Network. It would take a page or two to explain it and, I'm not the one to do it. It's just a different way of making things work. But, goofing with it as in, say, adding RV wiring to it for toad lights the way I did it for decades is not the thing to do. This is why I, and many, many others have turned to factory aftermarket tow harnesses like Hopkins, Mopar, Blue Ox, Cooltech etc. They have figured out how to basically plug right into factory plugs with the right integrated circuitry and, not have any issues but yet, make the toads tail lights act the same when towing it, as they do when driving it. It's the only way to go, in my opinion. Waaaaaaaaaaaay cleaner than magnetic lights.
Scott

[Bumpyroad]

jerseyjim wrote:
JoeH: I would have gone for the diodes....but like my previous post said, the RV mechanic told me what MIGHT happen with the (at that time) newer cars.

He would know...I wouldn't. He could have made some bucks from product and installation..but didn't. So...magnetic lights it is.

and I "assume" that there have been a bunch of electrical/wiring changes since 2011??????????????
bumpy

[jerseyjim]

JoeH: I would have gone for the diodes....but like my previous post said, the RV mechanic told me what MIGHT happen with the (at that time) newer cars.

He would know...I wouldn't. He could have made some bucks from product and installation..but didn't. So...magnetic lights it is.

[JoeH]

jerseyjim wrote:
In 2007-2011, my Chevy HHR (Toad) had the diode kit installed. Never a problem.

Using my 2011 Ford Ranger as a toad, my RV mechanic cautioned against using any diode setup "in some of these newer cars"....sometimes the diode system sends a false problem message to the computer and the "check engine" light comes on.

Yes? No? So, I went with the magnetic lights...again, never a problem. The RV dealer could have made some bucks selling and installing the diode set, but chose not to.

So...my experience, either system works fine...depends on the vehicle.

I had a 2011 Ranger as a toad for several years. I put in diodes a couple days after I bought it new from the dealer and everything was working fine when I got rid of the Ranger 5 years later.

[haydoracin]

Hopkins makes "Plug and Play" wiring kits for many vehicles. Using one on my HHR. Simple installation and works great.

[Bumpyroad]

willald wrote:
I use the magnetic lights, but with a slight twist: The lights sit, permanently, INSIDE the car, on the rear shelf behind rear seat head rests. Wires for such are easily hidden, go down into trunk, and are then wired under the car to the connector in front.
.

when I used a pickup with cap as a toad, I permanently mounted the lights to the cap, and just plugged them in as needed.
bumpy

[willald]

I use the magnetic lights, but with a slight twist: The lights sit, permanently, INSIDE the car, on the rear shelf behind rear seat head rests. Wires for such are easily hidden, go down into trunk, and are then wired under the car to the connector in front.

Never have to take them out or put them in, because they aren't in the way where they are and aren't a problem when driving the car normally. They stay where they are, permanently. And, a small piece of velcro on the bottom of them, makes them stick in place on the shelf back there just fine.

Its sort of a way of having the best of all worlds. Don't have to touch any of the wiring for the car, nor have to drill any holes or install separate lights, but still have a solution that stays in place, ready to go, all the time. And, very cheap, too. Only cost is for the magnetic lights themselves ($20), and some wire to the front of the vehicle. All of which easily transfers to the next vehicle, too.

[et2]

Read the owners manual if it's still under warranty. The proof in this thread alone shows there can be problems. Causing eletrical problems to your new car could cost you a lot more in the long run.

If a separate bulb and wiring can't be installed ( lack of enough room), personally I'd go the mag lights. Actually I've used wireless mag lights for the last 5 years without any problems. No electrical problems to worry about.

[rk911]

YC 1 wrote:
Diodes add many more connections and potential bad connections. Water intrusion can be an issue too.

If the brake device is sensitive to input voltage it could be fooled by the tiniest of voltage leak and either stay locked up or worse, some can lock up while you are driving the toad.

I highly recommend using separate bulbs which are easy enough to install or stick with your magnetic setup. Another option if you have a tow hitch on the toad it so to use a tow bar with or without a tow ball and then connect a cross bar to hold lights on each end. The light bar can be removed easily. I often just leave mine in place. The tow ball is still available if needed.

X2. initially our wiring was set up using diodes and this worked quite well for a couple of years until one year in the black hills the diode blew and that took out the jeep's tail and brake lights both when we were towing and when it was being driven. long story short rather than repairing we ripped out that system and instead installed a separate wiring harness from the umbilical connection to the tail light assembly in which were installed second bulbs. this system is totally independent from the factory wiring and bulbs. there was some work setting it up but once done it's a breeze to troubleshoot. I would heartily and enthusiastically suggest you consider using this method.

[FIRE_UP]

Wiring with diodes is about as simple as it gets. It always cracks me up when folks think the world is going to go up in flames if they TIE INTO THE FACTORY WIRING. I've only been doing just that for oh, about 35-40 years of RVs and toads. And up until my most recent wiring job for our present toad, I've not used those high-priced boxed diodes from Camping World and other RV supplies places.

All I've used is about $3.50 worth of diodes from Radio Shack. A diode is a diode, period. No matter if it's got a box wrapped around it or not. Using the factory tail lights as toad lights just makes sense. I mean, if you're following a toad, being towed behind a coach and, it's heavy traffic around you, freeway conditions, maybe the sun at your back, it just make sense to look for signals that are more natural from the toad in front of you.

All my toads that I've wired, have the toad lights act the EXACT same when towing them, as they do when driving them. And in some cases, as in one of our toads being a Honda CRV with AMBER turn signals, even those worked as they should. It's not rocket science to wire them up.

Everyone's got a comfort level when working with wiring. Iv'e never been a fan of adding bulbs and sockets. The primary reason is, the additional bulbs are not centered in the back-reflective housings, like the factory bulbs are. So, you don't get the correct brightness needed for good quality signals. Not to mention, if there's an auxiliary brake system in the toad, and the toads brakes are applied the same time a turn signal is sent to those EXTRA bulbs, just exact what signal is going to be seen by a following person?
Scott

[Johno02]

Have used both diodes, and seperate bulbs, Had a bit of trouble with the diodes, due to incorrect wiring, but once it was fixed, no other problem. Prefer the seperate bulbs, but the housing on the HHR was not big enough to install them.