Rough 24 hours for RV

[Walaby]

On my way back from Florida yesterday, had my first (and hopefully have last) blow out. Yes, I have the china-bombs (Tow Max). TT is about 15 months old. I was hoping to get a second year out of the tires before replacing them, but obviously not going to happen now. No warning on the blow out. Inspected tires that AM.. everything looked fine. Fortunately they blew out right at an exit. Swapped the spare and made it home. No, Im not overweight, nor under pressured. Could have been a result of SLIGHT over 65MPH a time or two, for short period of time. Never even getting to 70, but sometimes getting to 68 or so for a short period of time. Fortunately no other damage.

Second, totally unrelated issue. Today wife calls me (Im out of town). Fridge quit working. Freezer stuff thawed. Other stuff in fridge warm. She threw it all out. Asked her to turn fridge on, and see if the display comes up. Came up with ERR3 code. Looked it up on the internet, and Dometic ERR3 basically says cooling system failed, call dealer. Im guessing it's not reparable. It is on the opposite side from the blow out, so I am assuming they are unrelated. Searching elsewhere online, I see that some of the Dometic fridges have this problem, and some models have a reset button. I'll investigate more when I get home.

Trailer was purchased new Feb 2016. Basic warranty expired Feb 2017. I do have an extended warranty that will replace the fridge (if that's necessary) but Im trying to decide if I may just want to replace it with residential fridge instead if it comes to that.

I can't recall the Dometic model number off top of my head, but it is a nearly full size, double door unit.

Need to try to figure out if I can find a residential unit that (a) fits, and (b) can run off my inverter with, hopefully no additional batteries while I am driving.. or (c) buy a different/additional inverter to handle the fridge and an additional battery, if necessary. I want it to stay cold/running while Im driving, and that would probably be 8-10 hours max.. most times less.

Just examples (perhaps a little extreme), of the types of unexpected 'issues' one can experience enjoying this hobby we all love. One has to be prepared for these unexpected expenses.

If anyone has any recommendations regarding residential fridge (again, assuming it comes to that), would be greatly appreciated. Tire wise, I've gotten plenty of info over the past two years with all the discussions, so no need to rehash those things.

Thanks

Mike

[Walaby]

Fridge problem solved (hopefully)

Heat limit switch on boiler on backside of fridge. Link describing it here

Fridge is running now. Hopefully will cool, and remain cool/working.

Mike

[wnjj]

The "blowout" was likely just the result of running low on air. You probably picked something up along the road which made the tire leak.

Unless you have a TPMS on the trailer and it was at pressure when it blew.

[lenr]

With a fridge that new the fix is likely to cost less than a whole new one. If home cures don't work, you might Google for local RV fridge repair. IMO small specialty shops are technically sharper than trailer dealers. Be sure to check the basic Domestic warranty--they used to be 2 years even though the trailer was 1 year.

[Walaby]

Thanks for the tips guys... No, I don't really think slightly exceeding 65MPH is the cause. My only point is air pressure was fine when I left (sure it could have dropped on the road), and Im definitely under weight for axles and tires. I've been meaning to replace the china bombs.. was going to do it this year, but thought I'd get another year.. Oh well.

Apparently there is a reset button on some models of Dometics. The button apparently trips when the temp behind the fridge gets excessive. Have read several cases of this on the inter-web. When that happens, apparently Err3 comes up. Will see when I get home this evening and check it out. It was running fine on gas when we stopped for lunch. When I got home, I connected up to electric, but honestly did not go into the camper and check it at that point.

Honestly I've been thinking of switching to residential fridge for awhile now. If the fridge ends up being replaced, I was thinking just that.. replace under the warranty and then swap it.. sell the RV fridge after removed. We shall see.

Thanks

Mike

[garyhaupt]

Fridges...start with the 'maybe' solution. DOes she know where the fridge outside cap is? Take it off...turn on fridge. Is there a clicking sound? Actually..does it ignte even? Lets say tho clicking sound..no ignition. INside..turn off fridge power. And no need to fear... nothing will go kaboom. It has fail-safes up the wazoo. Ok..clicking but no igntion...where the copper line feeds into the bottom of that tall tube. There are small screws holding a wind shield. She needs to remove those 2 or 3 small screws..put them on the far side of the box so to not drop on ground and never find again. (here is an often cause of failing ignition...that tube goes up to roof...and gets a layer of carbon like material on it. When we hit a bump...sometimes flakes of that stuff fall down onto the igniter..remember the fail-safes? That is one..anything on the igniter no workee.) If she has a piece of plastic tubing she can blow into/theu? a straw? and direct it right into the bottom of that where that copper gas tube goes...and blow. That air will clear any of those flakes off. Blow a couple times...it might be teeny tiny or size of a quarter. If there is any sign of material have her pound on the tubing going up to dislodge the stuff. Even if she sees nothing..blow more. Then into RV and turn of fridge. Go out and listen..see if there is clicking at first then the ignition of gas. If so...put screws back in and there she goes. She can reset screws wuth or without turning fridge off/on. No big deal but no need for her to get worries either.

I cannot begin to count how many times mine and others have had this happen. I have saved many a trip ending fridge failure by clearing off that igniter.

If that doesn't work...back to square one.


Gary Haupt

[Roadpilot]

I agree with Down the avenue. Your trailer batteries are being charged while traveling and will provide more then enough energy over the 8-10 hour period to keep the batteries charged. The Frig. won't cycle often while traveling since it's not being opened. When it does it will draw more then the truck is providing but the average energy consumed over a longer time is still less then the truck is providing.

Whether more batteries would help is mainly a function of how often and for how long you will run without being plugged into AC. People generally add batteries to lengthen the time between turning on the generator. More batteries equal longer time between generator on times.

I think if you search this foru or IRV2, with your model number, you'll find a frig. that will fit.

[RedRocket204]

Use your extended warranty to fix/replace the current refrigerator... as that is why you bought the extended warranty. Worse case is you go with a residential refrigerator after the repair and you can sell the current refrigerator. It will buy you time and no need to rush into anything except getting the current refrigerator repaired.

I also doubt traveling above 65mph actually caused the blowout. While your trailer is in for the refrigerator repair, you might want to have your wheel bearings serviced and brakes checked to make sure something didn't cause an "over" heat condition, eventually adding to the reason for the blowout.

[Muddydogs]

Walaby wrote:
Could have been a result of SLIGHT over 65MPH a time or two, for short period of time. Never even getting to 70, but sometimes getting to 68 or so for a short period of time. Fortunately no other damage. Mike

O please, do you really think that 65 is some magic number that if you go over the tire is going to fall apart? There are a lot of factors that effect tire heat like the road surface, ambient temperature and trailer load. Just getting over 65 a time or two for a short time isn't going to cause a blow out and is quite ridiculous to even make the comment.

[DownTheAvenue]

If you are always with electricity while camping, except during travel, then the residential refrigerator offers significant advantages. Eight to ten hours of traveling will be no problem. Remember, your trailer batteries should be receiving a charge from your truck. Almost all trailers do not have an inverter, so the simplest thing would be to run separate cable from the batteries to a convenient spot to mount the inverter- hopefully close enough to the refrigerator to just plug it directly into the inverter.

You have to decide if you want a modified sine wave or pure sine wave inverter. Some refrigerators don't perform well or at all with the modified sine wave. The pure sine wave produces 120 volt electricity just like we get at home, so any appliance, including electronics, should work with it.

[Walaby]

Ah... Nope. But I feel a sort of kindred spirit.

Mike

[jplante4]

Walaby wrote:
No... why?

Mike

This thread

[Walaby]

No... why?

Mike

[ol_Bombero-JC]

By any chance do you know "grizz272"?..:@

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