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Setting up a Wrangler TJ toad

mpcarr
Explorer
Explorer
I bought a 30โ€™ Coachmen a couple of months ago and am now working through the plans as to how to tow my 2006 Jeep Wrangler unlimited behind it. The Jeep is completely stock (no lift, stock tires). So far I have am tending toward the following:

Blue Ox BX1120 base plate
Ready Brute Elite tow bar/braking system
adding additional brake/turn/running lights to the existing rear light enclosures

I have two questions that I am sure have been answered before but couldnโ€™t seem to find an earlier post via the search function of the site.

Question 1:

I understand that the tow bar should be level so that indicates to me that the center of the receiver on the MH should be the same height from the ground as the center of the connection points on the Blue Ox base plate mounted to the Jeep. Since I donโ€™t have the base plate yet, a quick measurement tells me that where I think the base plate connection points would be is close to the center distance from the ground of the MH receiver. Of course I donโ€™t know exactly where the Blue Ox base plate connection points will be after it is installed so this is just an estimate. How accurate does this vertical alignment have to be? I understand that 3 or 4 inches is no good, but what about plus or minus an inch? Also, I read somewhere online (canโ€™t find it now) that there is a measurable difference between the vertical ground distance on the mounted Blue Ox base plate and the Roadmaster tow brackets (with adapter bar) when used on a Wrangler. If so, anyone have recommendations if the Roadmaster might be a better fit?

Question 2:

I am leaning against using diodes to isolate the lighting systems of the MH and Jeep. Rather I am looking at the Blue Ox kit that provides extra sockets to mount in the existing lamp enclosures on the Jeep. Since I would run the wires all the way back to the lights anyway, it just seems cleaner to install the sockets rather than the diodes. I do have, however, the third brake light in the center of the Jeep mounted above the tire. I have never seen anyone address making that light work as a toad vehicle brake light. I guess that is one of the advantages of the diode approach - with diodes that it should work along with the right and left brake lights. Anyway, does the third light have to work if the vehicle is being towed rather than driven? Seems like the magnetic towing lights I have seen sold donโ€™t accommodate a third center light so I donโ€™t see how not making the vehicle one work would be any different that that. Of course State Troopers might see it differently.

I appreciate any help you folks can provide.

Mike
9 REPLIES 9

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
Mike,
Roger that Sir. It will be interesting to see how you wire it up.
Scott
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

mpcarr
Explorer
Explorer
Scott - I think you are convincing me to take a closer look at the diode isolation approach. I spent a few minutes this afternoon sketching out an approach that will allow using the center brake light without the turn signal interference you referenced. It only takes a couple of additional diodes. I want to get my service manual out and double check things against the jeep schematic to make sure I haven't missed any bad side effects. I'll let you know if it verifies out. Thanks for the help.

Mike

mpcarr
Explorer
Explorer
my996duc1 - The factory service manual for the 2005 LJ is available at:

Free Jeep Service Manuals

The electrical diagrams and wire colors are in the manual.

Mike

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
my996duc1 wrote:
Anyone have a wiring schematic for using diodes on a Jeep for wiring in the tow lights ?
Knowing which color wires to cut into would make the process alot simpler. I am planning on wiring my '05 LJ with diodes but unsure if I am going wire the diodes inside or underneath near the tail lights.

_


my996duc1,
Well Sir, as stated above, I've done it so many times I could probably do it in my sleep but, since I'm getting (already am) old, I can't remember what color the wires are pertaining to each side. Also as stated, the entire wiring loom for all the rear tail lights are ran, just under the door sill, right next to the drives left knee. So, all that's needed is to release that loom from it's captive holders and, open it up, then do a probe (with a 12V test light hooked to a ground, and probe the wires while a turn signal is on for each side. Then do it for the running lights. Done!

Now, you strip a tiny section of the wire for each conductor, left turn, right turn and then running light wire, then "T" onto it and, wrap your incoming wire around the newly stripped section tightly, then a dab of solder to keep that connection secure and tight. Then, wrap it with some good quality tape and that one is done. Then, do it to the other two and then that section is complete.

Now, as for the diode, an inch or two or three, down stream (towards the front of the jeep), each of those turn signal wires will actually need to be cut. Then stripped, then a diode is installed "In line" and the wire is soldered back together and that's done. You don't need to do it to the running light wires. The only effect if you don't do it to the running light wires is, the front parking lights will light up to with your coach signal. Many folks, including myself actually like that because it creates light for tight turning at night or darker conditions between the corner of the coach and the corner of the toad.

It's a very, very simple system and very easy to do. I'm attaching a diagram I drew up of my recent job I did on our '11 Honda CRV. The only reason I'm attaching it is so you can actually see what is done and, diode placement. Don't pay any attention to the fact that the Honda has "amber" turn signals because you, and every other Jeep doesn't. And, there is a converter box in that system that you will not need. It's there to separate the signals from a "two wire" system to a "three wire" system. I'm just showing you how the attaching is done and how it applies to the factory wires. Any questions, let me know.
Scott
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

my996duc1
Explorer
Explorer
Anyone have a wiring schematic for using diodes on a Jeep for wiring in the tow lights ?
Knowing which color wires to cut into would make the process alot simpler. I am planning on wiring my '05 LJ with diodes but unsure if I am going wire the diodes inside or underneath near the tail lights.

_
2007 Coachmen Cross Country 354MBS
2005 LJ Rubicon Sahara

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
mpcarr wrote:
Scott - Thanks for the perspective. I have an electrical engineering background that put food on the table for a number of years and I am a ham radio operator so I'm not afraid to tackle electrical issues. As you pointed out the vehicle braking system would simultaneously power up the brake light when using Ready Brake. Your kill switch idea is a good one and certainly workable but I figure installing separate sockets keep the MH and the toad electrical systems completely isolated keeps things cleaner. I can just simply pull the brake fuse in the Jeep to prevent the Jeep supplied brake lights from overpowering the other lamps I install in the rear light housings. Having said all that, I am still considering diodes. I have a box of them in the ham shack that should work if I decide to use that option. Diodes will also make the center brake light work. Anyway, thanks for the good advice. I'll let it factor into my final decision.



Mike


Roger that Sir. Now, just for grins, and as many of these as I've done and wired, with the exception of our present toad, the 2011 CRV, I'd like to know how you'd set up the third brake light by utilizing a dual filament system. You see, with amber turn signals, you have a dedicated brake light circuit so, tying into that third brake light with the brake light signal wire from the coach would be easy.

But, how would you do it with a "dual filament" system without that third brake light blinking when either of the turn are signals blinking?

I've seen guys in the past add a third brake light when they weren't popular yet and, that third brake light "flashes" when either of the turn signals flash. But, they work when neither of the lights flash and the brakes are applied. I'm sure that with the proper placement of relays and diodes etc. which, is over my head, it would probably work.
Scott
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

mpcarr
Explorer
Explorer
Scott - Thanks for the perspective. I have an electrical engineering background that put food on the table for a number of years and I am a ham radio operator so I'm not afraid to tackle electrical issues. As you pointed out the vehicle braking system would simultaneously power up the brake light when using Ready Brake. Your kill switch idea is a good one and certainly workable but I figure installing separate sockets keep the MH and the toad electrical systems completely isolated keeps things cleaner. I can just simply pull the brake fuse in the Jeep to prevent the Jeep supplied brake lights from overpowering the other lamps I install in the rear light housings. Having said all that, I am still considering diodes. I have a box of them in the ham shack that should work if I decide to use that option. Diodes will also make the center brake light work. Anyway, thanks for the good advice. I'll let it factor into my final decision.

Mike

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
mpcarr,
Well Sir, for some odd reason, folks have tendency to panic when it comes to "tying" into the factory Jeep wiring for lights. I have no idea why. You can't get much simpler. You see, ALL the light wires pass right by the left knee of the driver, just under the door sill. We've towed (7) different Jeep Wranglers all over the U.S. and wired the stock tail light bulbs to work with the RV. We did that for over 25 years of Jeeping and they always worked perfect.

Absolutely NEVER had any issues what so ever. It's very easy. And, you don't have to run the wires from the coach all the way to the back of the Jeep. You simply remove the bulk of wires to a workable space along side the door sill. Then, you find the right turn, the left turn, and the running light wire. You then "T" into them with a clean solder joint and tape, DONE!

But, yes the diodes will have to be used so the signal from the coach does not travel down stream to the steering column and get the electrical system confused. I don't use those fancy Diode kits from the big suppliers like Camping World, E-trailer.com and others. I have used the $3.00 pack of diodes from Radio Shack and they're rated for way higher amp and voltage anyway so, I've always been way over protected.

Once you're done, your lights will work as they're supposed to. Now, as for your third brake light. No, there is no LEGAL requirement for it to be activated when the vehicle is being towed. I set mine up to be activated in my 2011 Honda CRV simply because it was easy to do so. The reason it was easy on the CRV was because that car has "Amber" turn signals which are totally separate from the brake light system. But, on a "two-filament" system, such as a Jeep, the third brake light is a totally separate system from the normal brake lights. So, to activate it with the wiring from the coach, would take intricate wiring.

Anyway, do as you like. There's no need to panic when it comes to tying into the factory wiring. It's wiring, not the plague. Simply strip some insulation, wrap your new signal wire from the coach, solder it, wrap it up with tape nice and tight, DONE. Put all the wires back under the door sill and, that's it. Your choice. Good luck how ever you do it.
Scott

P.S. Yes, if you add an auxiliary braking system like say, the Ready Brake, the Jeep brake lights will be activated when the Jeeps brakes are applied. Now you'll have two conflicting signals going to the tail lights. So, my simple remedy was to cut the brake light signal wire from the brake switch on the Jeep, run it to the door jamb where, I installed a micro-toggle switch, double throw.

On one side of the switch, I ran a wire right back down to the place where I cut it and tied it onto the cut wire. On the other side of the switch, I ran that wire, all the way to the front of the Jeep, the through the Pig tail, and all the way to the dash on on the motor home. Now, When towing the Jeep, I simply flip the switch so the signal from the jeeps brake switch is sent to the dash on the motor home where it lights a tiny LED, telling me the brakes are being applied in the Jeep.

When driving the jeep, we flip the switch so the signal from the Jeeps brake switch travels as normal to the jeeps brake lights.
Scott
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

Wheel_Estate
Explorer
Explorer
mike , just mounted blue ox base plates on my '11 wrangler. they roughly finish off with the bottom of the mount close to level with the bottom of the bumper, and in my case no change nessary to hook to coach.

i NEARLY went with the cool tech wiring harnass, until i found out i had to cut into the jeep wiring anyway (if i had factory tow package), so i went with the seperate bulbs myself (from blue ox).

oh, and you MAY have to disable the jeep brake lights. if your add on brake presses the pedal (and light the brake lights). what that will do is HIDE your turn signal of the add on lights, activated from the coach. my book says to pull the neg post (to accomplish this), but at least you may have to pull that fuse ( brake light).

I'm not DONE with mine yet, so feel free to PM me through this process.
Rick & MaryAnn
drive a Phaeton with
SMI brake stopping a Jeep toad