Stop light switch kit with SMI Stay-n-play

[mleekamp]

I've spent time here on RV.net and elsewhere trying to understand the in's and out's of dinghy towing. So here's the question I can't seem to find the answer on: On the SMI Stay-n-Play supplemental braking system, if it's activating the brake pedal with a cylinder, why would a "stop light kit" be needed? (diode or magnetic stop light kit) My brake lights activate with or without the key.

SMI or other brands/styles of brake systems...wouldn't this still be true (brake light activates when brake pedal moves...regardless of key on or ignition on)...can anyone confirm?

[mleekamp]

Thanks for all the good info.

[enblethen]

Here is link to Roadmaster wiring diagramDiode wiring diagram combined lights

[Wildwilly101]

Here's a quick sketch of how mine is done. Hopefully the link to the picture will work.

Materials:
1 wiring harness with diodes that plugs in at the lights (no splicing)
1 Stay in Play kit
1 stop light switch
1 fuse cutoff switch (not shown in drawing)
one 7 pin cable
Tow bar and accessories

Power wiring and cylinder lines on Stay in Play not shown

[FIRE_UP]

mleekamp wrote:
Thanks for the info....I did not even consider TURN SIGNALS...this is all new to me (toad/dinghy towing) and trying to understand it all.

Thanks much.

mleenkamp,
The first thing you need to understand that no one's explained to you is, contrary to some popular belief, not all cars/toads etc. are made the same. There are some vehicles that when the IGNITION is not in the ON position, if the brakes are applied, the brake lights WILL ACTIVATE. On others, no, the brake lights WILL NOT activate. There is no rhyme or reason as to which vehicles/toads are set up in which manner.

We have two toads. One is an '11 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Extended Cab and the other is a '15 Jeep JKUR. With the GMC, the brake lights DO NOT activate when the pedal is applied and the ignition is OFF. But, on the Jeep, they DO activate with the Key in my pocket. So, what does this effect you might ask?

Well, it all depends on whether or not a person decides to use the stock tail lights and bulbs as toad lights. I myself, have done just that for years and years with multiple toads. Many folks run and hide when you mention tieing into the factory wiring to use the factory bulbs for stop, tail and turn. But, it's not rocket science and, to date, I don't think there's been a toad across the entire United States that has burned to the ground because someone's tied into the factory tail lights for toad lights.

This is a matter of opinion and preference. I've never been a fan of adding EXTRA sockets and bulbs in a crowded tail light housing. For one, the socket and bulb are not placed where the back of the housing can do the most efficient reflective action. Only the factory bulbs, in their placement, do that.

Second, unless precautions are taken, there is a high possibility that you will have TWO different signals being sent to the same proximity area and, that's not good for following drivers in traffic situations. By conflicting signals I mean, let's say you've added extra bulbs. Now, you're driving along and you need to make a turn AND stop or slow at the same time.

Well, you put your turn signals on and, that extra bulb begins to flash, correct? Now, you apply your coaches brakes which, also, depending on the style and type of auxiliary brakes in the toad, applies the toads brakes too. When that happens, you'll be sending a brake light signal to the factory bulb, only what, maybe a 1/2" away from the blinking additional bulb, NOT GOOD!!!

There are ways to alleviate this situation but, unless you ask, I won't bother going into them. Just be aware it happens all the time when folks improperly setting up toad lights, are unaware of this. Then there's the same kind of situation where one HAS setup the toads original tail light bulbs as toad lights. Now, again, you're cruising along and need to slow and or turn at the same time. You now send a turn signal from the coach, to the toad, which, starts your toads tail light blinking, correct? But, now you apply the brakes in the coach and, that also applies the brakes in the toad, which, sends a brake light signal from the toads brake pedal, to the toads own tail lights. NOW WHAT? You have two conflicting signals being sent to the same filament.

There are ways to alleviate that situation too.
Scott

[mleekamp]

Thanks for the info....I did not even consider TURN SIGNALS...this is all new to me (toad/dinghy towing) and trying to understand it all.

Thanks much.

[GeoBoy]

For a few dollars more and less hassle I think the wireless RV tow lights by towmate.com look interesting.

[Wildwilly101]

There is an LED light strip in the Stay in Play kit that mounts on the dash of the motorhome to indicate when the toad brake pedal has physically moved away from rest position (toad brakes activated). I needed the extra Stop Light Switch kit to operate that LED light.

Our 2014 Equinox does not have a standard brake light switch that I could have used. It has an analog brake position sensor that tells the computer when to activate the brake lights (among other things like ABS etc).

The extra brake light switch is connected one side to a positive, always hot, fused source. The other side I wired to the blue wire in the 7 pin plug that is normally used for trailer brakes. Using the trailer brake pigtail connector under the dash in the motorhome, I wired the LED to the blue wire to indicate when the toad brake pedal moves. That saved me from running a separate wire the length of the motorhome since I don't tow a trailer.

It's a very nice feature that tells you when the toad brakes are working and helps in making sensitivity adjustments.

The brake lights/turn signals on the rear of the toad are operated by the wiring from the motorhome through the cord plugged into the rear of the motorhome. With the Stay in Play, the brake pedal in the toad will not be activated with every stopping condition like stop & go city traffic, it is a supplemental system. Therefore you want an indicator to tell you when the brake pedal is actually moving in the toad.

[John_Wayne]

You still need something for the directional signals and parking lights. If you have room in your tail light housing for separate bulbs and sockets that's the way to go. On mine when the toad brakes do come on the original tail lights also come on along with the third brake light.

[enblethen]

It is normally to prevent back feeding into the toads computer system. Roadmaster has some explainationBrake light relay information


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