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Sugestions for Entry Level Cheap Dinghy

rowekmr
Explorer
Explorer
Hello
Just got a Class A and want to try out a dinghy. We are a family of 3 just want to try a simple, light and older car/suv (fwd or 4wd/awd)that can be bought for less than 4k to see if it works for us. I am new to this but heard I will need base plate and tow bar, lights and brake hook up but I thought I read if less than 3K weight I won't need supplemental brakes. This MH already has tow bars attached to hitch I believe.

Any suggestions?
10 Lincoln MKS Ecoboost
07 Lincoln Navigator
00 Newmar Dutch Star 3851
22 REPLIES 22

rowekmr
Explorer
Explorer
I didn't get enough time to pick one before my planned trip so I took the maiden voyage without one. I have a Blue Ox hitch set up and some old brake equipment that I will have to check out to see what I can use and what I have to remove or replace. One benefit is I paid cheaper tolls lol But I do wish I had one ended up renting a minivan once I got here to transport everyone.
10 Lincoln MKS Ecoboost
07 Lincoln Navigator
00 Newmar Dutch Star 3851

tatest
Explorer II
Explorer II
Just how old?

Top candidate, if you need an automatic, would be Saturn S series, 1990-2000. Even most later Saturns work because they were on GM platforms using the 4T40E or 4T45E transmissions.

Which brings up the second big group: GM compact and mid-size sedans using the 4T40E/4T45E tranmissions, 1995 to 2010. Models include compact Cavalier, Cobalt, HHR, Sunfire, Alero and mid-size Malibu, Cutlass, Grand-Am, G6, and 2000-2004 Saturn L, 2005-2007 Saturn Ion, and certain models of Saturn Vue.

Also towable will be GM cars using 4T60E/4T65E, but these are not small, e.g. Equinox, Traverse, Impala-size cars.
Tom Test
Itasca Spirit 29B

fredandkathy
Explorer
Explorer
I tow a 2007 Jeep Compass with a 5 speed. Cheap and light. Mine only has 195,000 miles on it.

DryCreek
Explorer
Explorer
soren wrote:

That is a great way to break an arm! The steering wheel on a toad can violently spin when going backwards, and you're not going to stop it by holding the wheel. First, unless you are slowly heading a few feet straight backwards, reversing with a toad isn't a good idea. Second, there should never be anybody in the toad attempting to steer.


I was only talking about 10 to 15 feet. As long as you go slow, and straight, there is no problem. Sometimes that short distance is all that is required to clear an obstacle at a filling station.

grant135b
Explorer
Explorer
I second (or third) the Saturn S-Series suggestion. Get a sedan (SL1 or 2) or a station wagon (SW1 or 2) and you have a 2500 lb, five passenger vehicle that can be towed four down with either an automatic or stick shift.

I've owned four S-Series Sattys since '97 and I still own two, an '02 and a '95, both SL2's (I'd still have three if one of them hadn't gotten hit two years ago). I bought the '95 specifically as a toad in '06 and it proved to be such a good little toad and grocery getter that 11 years and 70k+ miles later I still have it, it still looks good, everything works (even the AC), and it's still humming along with 193k total miles. She's been coast to coast all over the US behind the mother ship, on her own to Florida twice (3k mile round trip), Chicago once (1,000 miles round trip), and I still wouldn't hesitate to drive it anywhere.

You can still pick up a 3rd (and last) generation (2000-2002) S-Series in great shape for $3k or less. For example, I bought my 2002 SL2 loaded with all of the power options, cruise, sunroof, one owner, everything works, only 100k miles, four years ago (2013) for $2500. It runs and drives like a new car. In fact, it's going to be making a trip to CA on its own from Ohio later this summer.

How many of them are still on the road doing DD duty, even early '90s 1st generation S-Series, is a testament to what great cars they were.
Fleetwood Pace Arrow, USAF/SAC Vet (KC-135A, B-52D)

soren
Explorer
Explorer
DryCreek wrote:
A good used Jeep Patriot with manual transmission can be had for a reasonable amount. Other than that, a used Chevy Tracker/Suzuki Sidekick is light and easy to set up for four-down towing.

Another idea would be to find a used tow dolly and pull whatever smaller front wheel drive vehicle you may already have. It could be cheaper than setting up a vehicle with a tow plate, buying the tow bar (if that isn't one on your rig already) and the lights, etc. to make it legal in most states. Several tow dollies have their own lights and surge brakes - the easiest and quickest way to get on the road. Another benefit of a tow dolly is that you can back out (slowly) if needed without having someone in the towed vehicle to stabilize the steering wheel.without having someone in the towed vehicle to stabilize the steering wheel.


That is a great way to break an arm! The steering wheel on a toad can violently spin when going backwards, and you're not going to stop it by holding the wheel. First, unless you are slowly heading a few feet straight backwards, reversing with a toad isn't a good idea. Second, there should never be anybody in the toad attempting to steer.

MWOwner
Explorer
Explorer
Love our 2006 Chevy Cobalt that we tow behind our Minnie Winnie.

D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Explorer
DryCreek wrote:
Another benefit of a tow dolly is that you can back out (slowly) if needed without having someone in the towed vehicle to stabilize the steering wheel.


I don't think so! There is no steering wheel to turn on a trailer but most have a swivel axel.
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V
2009 GMC Canyon
Roadmaster 5000
BrakeBuddy Classic II

D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Explorer
IIRC, if you buy new and have base plates and wiring done, with the tow bar, your looking at $1000 to $2000. Magnetic lights are cheapest way to go. If your going to do it yourself, about $700 to $1700 and you're going for a upper end tow bar and not a ridged one, somewhat to a lot more.

Supplemental brakes are about $999 to $2500 and that is with any installation costs.

So you're looking at $2500 plus or minus just to be able to hook up to your RV. There are frequently good toweds listed on the RV sales boards and Craigslist, I just sold my Suzuki GV a couple months ago.

And I do recommend Suzuki's, Sidekicks are 2700 lbs and 4X4 with AT. Nice towed.
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V
2009 GMC Canyon
Roadmaster 5000
BrakeBuddy Classic II

Heisenberg
Explorer
Explorer
I have a friend who tows the Chevrolet Sonic with his 3500 pound receiver behind a class C. According to him the 1.4 Turbo is not towable but the 1.8 with automatic is. He has a 2013.
2013 Winnebago Sightseer
2017 Colorado

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
For 3 people I would buy an older Toyota Corolla manual, Hyundai Accent or Elantra manual, Ford Focas, Chevy Cruse or Sonic to name a few. I would basically pick one you would use for a daily driver then go to the Dingy towing guides for the year you are looking at to see if they are towable. The older you go the more that are towable. Once you found the car you like check the owners manual and make sure that the car can be towed 4 wheels down. The cars I mentioned will be less than 3000 lbs. You will have more of a selection with a manual transmission and in general they are easier to flat tow, no having to start the car and run it every 500 miles or so.

ILVMYGT
Explorer
Explorer
Plus one for the Saturn. The Saturn S Series is very easy to tow even with an automatic. Put it in Neutral and release the parking brake. There are no fuses to pull or "pre lubing" the transmission. They have a Allison Transmission.

We have tow ours for the last 11 years.
2000 Country Coach Magna
CAT 385HP Allison 6sp
1998 Saturn SW2

dicknellen
Explorer II
Explorer II
Find a older Saturn in decent shape most were good toads.

Hank85713
Explorer
Explorer
I know folks with DP''s that tow and do not have aux brakes. Air brakes IF adjusted right will stop the weights you are at with and without a towd vehicle. Bif thing is to have safety chains installed and utilized and then apply some sever stops to whateverr you have.. try the rv 1st then with the attached vehicle.

Proper adjustment is imperative for airbrakes to be effective. Know how they operate and really understand, they will NOT stop on a dime as many 4wheelers think. You will not stop at many yellow lights if less than 1.5-2 bus lengths away in most instances even without the towd vehicle. So knowing the systems and how they work on the RV will be most important. You will probably be having at least 15Tons of vehicle to stop and they do not in short distances.