Mike134 wrote:
I have to chuckle at the weight police. I've been on the forum a few years and all you read is you need a bigger truck, blah, blah, blah. The OP has a 1-TON DUALLY ONLY towing a 10,000 trailer and suddenly it's not enough truck?
You guys crack me up.
Safe travels, hitch up and never look back at the forum.
Mike,
I've had an 8500 lb trailer behind my 12k empty dump flat bed, with a 188" wb, 8k front axle, and 16.5k Ra manhandle the truck! ALL because it was loaded incorrectly with no hitch weight!
To others and OP,
To adds few other things, 1500 lbs of hw with a typical grawr of 8500, will remove around 200-300 lbs off the fa. Not a big deal. BUT a SW rig with a 6000-7000 grawr loses 309-400 lbs. This from experience is where handling issues from too little wt on the fa occur. Reality, no a WD is not needed for OPs truck.
Also with that said. From experience towing a box with a SW 3500 crew cab with typical 170" wb with 8' bed. I can tow said box loaded correctly with my fingers with no WD. BUT with a WD attached, I notice less side to side rocking of trailer in 20-30 mph side winds. LESS yet with a Reese dual cam. I would suspect less yet with a Hensley. No experience with a Hensley.
I have also been move half a lane to driver's side with a 60-80 mph gusts on I205 going north across Columbia River from Portland. Everything moved as a unit with the dual cam. No side to side uncontrolled fish tail sway.
With above said, I too will add use a WD anti sway system. ALSO make sure your trailer fully loaded can and does pull straight at any speed you are comfortable at. Be that 70 mph, or 60-65 is my general towing max. NOW add the bars for added insurance safety. If the trailer fishtail sways before adding bars. You've attempted to fix an injury with a band aid, when you need a tourniquet! If the bars fail, your screwed. Yes, I've had bars literally fall off, did not notice before driving over one mountain pass with some snow and ice in the roadway. Lightly snowing to boot!
My 02 on ALL the above
Marty