Tired of pulling that fuse?

[RedG]

I've seen some fuse switches on the internet for some hefty prices so you don't have to pull the ignition/accessory fuse every time you hook up the toad, but decided I'd make one from stuff in the garage for free. Here's how I did it.
Get one of these Fuse Taps from Autozone or other auto store. (I had one in the garage)
In the front fuse slot, plug the fuse into one side of the tap with the other tab hanging off the side. Take a wire with a spade plug on the end and plug it into the lug of the fuse hanging off the side of the tap. (This fits nice and tight and makes a good connection}
I then cut an old fuse in half to get one lug from it and inserted it into another spade plug with a wire on it and plugged it into the other slot in the tap. Then just run the two wires to any kind of on/off switch. Plug the tap in, route the switch and you're done. Mine looks kind of crude right now and I may use a more modern looking switch before install, but this is quick and easy and will save me from having to pull the plastic side off the console of my Malibu every time I pull it behind the MH.

[travisc]

Looks like a little more research and I found this- GTC CT6100
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GTC-CT6100-Fuse-Socket-Connector-Kit-/330976096004

A way to move a fuse out to standard spade wire connector- add this a switch and a remove fuse block and I think I can do this easily

[travisc]

bringing this thread up again- I was looking at this mini atm fuse holder on amazon- http://www.amazon.com/Shipping-Holder-Circuit-Profile-Automotive/dp/B00EO5P2B4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394679968&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+atm+fuse+tap

Figured if I just put the fuse on the outter position and then ran the red wire to a switch and back to the 1st fuse position- I could do the same thing with a minimal amount of work? I get a clean fuse holder- and a little soldering and I can take it in or out easily? thoughts?

[litehous]

I have a 2012 Honda CRV. Last year I set it up to be towed, wired the brake lights with diodes. I also added fuse adapter with a switch. Everything was good for awhile, then things went bad. The electrical in the car did crazy things, Honda had to replace the inside fuse panel, $700. I still would like to add a fuse adapter so I don't have to keep pulling the fuses. What adapter did you use on a 2012-13 CRV?

[RCtime]

Its finished, gotta find my fuse puller and install it now, but the wife says Ive played enough for today and gotta do some honey does.
Thanks

[RCtime]

Ok, just returned from radio shack. with the spade connectors and switch, I agree a lousy selection of switches, but chose one identical to the one that comes in the more expensive kits, the rocker with the little white dot .
Connectors $2.49--Switch $3.19 total of $12.67., including above ADD A CIRCUIT
I do have some wire.
Now for the fun part.

[RedG]

RCtime wrote:
RedG I agree

Just returned from O'Reilly auto parts. The part there is called ADD-A Circuit, same thing and comes with various fuses. $6.99
I'm off soon to radio shack for a switch and spade connectors to fit the mini fuses. Great idea.
Ron

I actually went to Radio Shack yesterday to pick up a switch. They had a lousy selection and oddly enough, I bought a switch at O'reilly's - It's a rocker switch with blue LED part #84841.

[RCtime]

RedG I agree

Just returned from O'Reilly auto parts. The part there is called ADD-A Circuit, same thing and comes with various fuses. $6.99
I'm off soon to radio shack for a switch and spade connectors to fit the mini fuses. Great idea.
Ron

[RedG]

RCtime wrote:
Do you have to put in the radio codes each time you use the switch, to make the radio operational again?

Using the switch is no different than pulling the fuse. If you have to reset the radio after pulling the fuse, you'll have to do it using the switch and visa versa.
I seriously doubt the radio would lose settings because it's on a RAP (retained accessory power) circuit which would be separate from the ignition accessory circuit. But you'll just have to pull the fuse to find out for your particular vehicle.

[RCtime]

I don't have either on my new 2013 crv yet, I am having the baseplate installed tomorrow.
However regarding the charge line. I would have to run an additional line from my coaches battery to my 6 pin connector. My 6 pin connector on my journey does not have a hot 12V on it. Install fuses at both ends etc.
If this solution works, it seems so simple.
However, I would still like to know if I have to recode my radio every time I use this switch, could be the deal breaker.

[GrampaR123]

Okay, I'll try this again. Regarding the "charge line" that I recommended to solve the issue of having to pull a fuse or install a fuse cutoff switch....in a Honda CRV, when you put the key in the proper position to tow, the factory installed GPS (if you have one) is powered up, even if you have the screen turned off it's still powered up "behind the scenes", along with other power draws, including (if you have one) a braking system like ours, which plugs into your 12 volt "cigarette lighter" plug-in. Over the course of an 8 hour day of towing, the battery will slowly be depleted. The charge line keeps the battery in the toad charged while you're driving. It's that simple!! I don't have any experience with the other problems mentioned with various other tow vehicles. I didn't realize that there were so many other reasons why a charge line wouldn't be the answer for some people, depending on the vehicle they tow. I guess I should have been more specific about the kind of car we tow. All I know is, it works for us, and for many other people who have posted on this website.
Good luck to those who need to find another solution....
And as always.........happy travels.
Bill

[RCtime]

Do you have to put in the radio codes each time you use the switch, to make the radio operational again?

[RedG]

tropical36 wrote:
I guess you all have some other things going on, like maybe a braking system that requires battery power, otherwise you'd just use a battery disconnect and be done with it, correct? Even at that, you lose your radio presets and also any cell phone settings that you might have. Just glad we don't have any of it to contend with. We just put the tranny in park, the transfer case in neutral and we're good to go.

Even if I didn't have an electric brake unit, it's probably a bigger PIA to raise the hood and disconnect the battery than it is to remove the fuse. Now I just have a rocker switch to hit while I'm attaching the Patriot brake unit and all is good.

[tropical36]

I guess you all have some other things going on, like maybe a braking system that requires battery power, otherwise you'd just use a battery disconnect and be done with it, correct? Even at that, you lose your radio presets and also any cell phone settings that you might have. Just glad we don't have any of it to contend with. We just put the tranny in park, the transfer case in neutral and we're good to go.

[lanerd]

Bill... Pulling the fuse isn't only about keeping the battery charged. The fuse stops other things from happening too! On mine, the warning bell indicating the the keys are in the ignition will continue to chime along with turning off all the dash board/radio/gps lights if the fuse is not pulled. I think the odometer is also turned off with the fuse... there's probably other things that I'm just not aware of.

So, just running a charge line (of which I "DO" have) won't eliminate all these other little items the fuse controls.

Happy trails to you too!

Ron