Towing or packing a Smart Car on the back of a Class A

[RustyMacIntosh]

OK, I bought a Smart Car. Love it actually. Hella a gocart that haul ass.

Three ideas being floated on how to pack this baby. Either, build a rack for the back of my Class A--glorified handicapped scooter type carrier that connects to the hitch, etc.

The Smart weights about 1800.

A trailer. I looked at Lowes. Since the Smart weights about 1800, and is about 5x8ish, a 6x9 or so flatbed type would work. Maybe.

Or tow bar. Roadmaster builds for about $400 a setup that mounts to the subframe of the front of the Smart. I'd then have to buy the tow bar setup, but that is extra.

My inclination is to build a rack. Such as in this picture that is attached.



https://imgur.com/f9b08Wb

[Alan_Hepburn]

It's only been mentioned once here, but be aware that the smart cars from 2008 forward are 4" longer than the maximum allowable width of vehicles. The older, grey-market smarts were shorter and that's why some people got away with loading them cross-ways on the back of their tow vehicles.

[tarnold]

I tow a smart with a self installed elite ll. Look at aluma for a single axle trailer for a smart. But then you have to find a place for the aluma.

[Ivylog]

Congrats on finding this thread for your first post and posting a picture.
You do have a tag axle coach… with only one post it’s hard to tell.
1600 lbs that far back is going to put 2100 lbs on the rear axles and take 700 off the front.
A Smart car is 106” long, 4” over the max legal width…hard to solve this issue.
A modified Hydra Lift is the only one I would use and hopefully I’d not have to get a over width permit for every state I’m in.

I would do a modified wheel lift that doesn’t raise and lower… I drive the car up. Fairly easy to back it up.

[fernandolegend]

Hey everyone! Would anyone know where I could find and purchase one of these smart car haulers?

[rhagfo]

Maybe you could trade your current Class A for one like this. The owner stated that it would also take a Smart Car.

[Ivylog]

CA Traveler wrote:

JRscooby wrote:

CA Traveler wrote:
It's air suspension and the tag is adjustable. Possibly with the tag set to 10,000 lbs it could make up the difference of the steel structure and car weight located about 13' behind the tag. Right now I can't quickly get my head around the lever arm math.

Even though the suspension can be raised 6" with modification that would be an very poor choice for traveling but works well for air leveling.

I suspect that the stability and safety of a RV is compromised with a car on the back. Probably is fine for normal traffic.

That’s 1800 lbs off the rear, on 3 DPs over 120+K miles. Takes 700 lbs off the front axle

[CA_Traveler]

I have no experience of changing the suspension the air pressure. However the ride is better than any non air suspension RV I've been in, don't know about Class B types. It's also better than any pickup truck I've been in towing or not. Plus with the rear engine significantly quieter to drive.

[CA_Traveler]

JRscooby wrote:

CA Traveler wrote:
It's air suspension and the tag is adjustable. Possibly with the tag set to 10,000 lbs it could make up the difference of the steel structure and car weight located about 13' behind the tag. Right now I can't quickly get my head around the lever arm math.

Even though the suspension can be raised 6" with modification that would be an very poor choice for traveling but works well for air leveling.

Don't know much about MH, but a lifetime of messing with trucks I always found a rougher ride when some axles maxed out, while others where unloaded.

Not the greatest design for my unit. Front axle is maxed at just under 14K, back axle is maxed at just under 20K. I wanted to increase the 5K tag and reduce the drive weight but can't with the front maxed. And if I emptied the cargo it wouldn't help much.

I suspect that the stability and safety of a RV is compromised with a car on the back. Probably is fine for normal traffic.

But my red line is liability: In case of a major issue my fault or not I don't want to be standing in front of a judge explaining why my RV doesn't meet his state requirements. Also why I recommend aux brakes on a toad.

[JRscooby]

CA Traveler wrote:
It's air suspension and the tag is adjustable. Possibly with the tag set to 10,000 lbs it could make up the difference of the steel structure and car weight located about 13' behind the tag. Right now I can't quickly get my head around the lever arm math.

Even though the suspension can be raised 6" with modification that would be an very poor choice for traveling but works well for air leveling.

Don't know much about MH, but a lifetime of messing with trucks I always found a rougher ride when some axles maxed out, while others where unloaded.

[rgatijnet1]

With the 1800 lbs. weight on the rear axle it may shift enough weight off of the front axle to make the coach wander while going down the road. I would go with a dolly or trailer.

[CA_Traveler]

It's air suspension and the tag is adjustable. Possibly with the tag set to 10,000 lbs it could make up the difference of the steel structure and car weight located about 13' behind the tag. Right now I can't quickly get my head around the lever arm math.

Even though the suspension can be raised 6" with modification that would be an very poor choice for traveling but works well for air leveling.

[JRscooby]

CA Traveler wrote:
Weight wise I could likely have a car on the back of the MH. Front axle and drive are maxed out but the 10,000 tag has only 5,000 lbs.

Don't get me started on this design...

There is also limited ground clearance - what do you do for more inside headroom? Answer - lower the rig to the ground of course.

What kind of suspension system do you have on that tag? Most trucks have some type of air. Pretty easy to adjust.

[CA_Traveler]

Weight wise I could likely have a car on the back of the MH. Front axle and drive are maxed out but the 10,000 tag has only 5,000 lbs.

Don't get me started on this design...

There is also limited ground clearance - what do you do for more inside headroom? Answer - lower the rig to the ground of course.

[RustyMacIntosh]

Having RedNeck Trailers build me a trailer. It will be low profile, with low profile fat tires, a 3500 Dexter Axle and tiedown. The Smart just got a new motor. But it is blocked in at the shop. Tomorrow we are going to try and get it out of the area it is in. The Yukon behind it cant be moved, so we will try working it thru the office area.

Now that IS a Smart Car, instead of going out the garage it goes the the office....

Yes after doing some research, (math not being my best suit) having 1800 lbs of car sitting on a motorcycle type rack on the back of the motorhome would not be wise.

I did get a line on a Tow Toad. I might buy it. Price is right.