Trailer Jack Mod?

[TBammer]

Anybody ever modify their trailer jack so it can be raised and lowered with an electric impact wrench. Thinking of removing the top wind handle and fitting a coupling nut on the top of the jack. I saw this mod on another forum and it seemed kind of slick. You can always use a ratchet wrench in case the impact battery dies. Thoughts?

[IDoMyOwnStunts]

OldRacer wrote:

IDoMyOwnStunts wrote:
I would be interested in this mod simply because I have 2 other trailers that have no batteries that would run an electric jack. I'm not interested in adding a full size battery to a utility or horse trailer.

Yes, each trailer has an existing battery for the breakaway switch, but I wouldn't want to run an electric jack with it.

no need for an external battery. simply tap into the constant hot on your 7 pin trailer harness that connects to the tow vehicle. As long as the trailer harness is long enough for you to be able to pull up a few inches without disconnecting it, it works off the tow vehicle battery. This is what i did on my 8 x 24 v-nose enclosed car hauler and it worked perfectly.

Hmmm... I'll look into that. I bent my jack my toy hauler (not enough to really affect it, but enough to make it annoying) due to a newbie mistake and have been looking for an excuse to replace it. I could reuse the old one on the horse trailer. Thanks.

[Bedlam]

My enclosed trailer has a flip foot so I don't have to hand crank the jack as much.

[OldRacer]

LoL it always amazes me how much work someone will go thru to keep from "working" so hard or to spend a buck to save a dime.

[LarryJM]

Hmmm seems more like a solution looking for a problem where the correct answer seems to be GET AN ELECTRIC TONGUE JACK. Be careful of the save a dime and cost yourself a fortune with a healthy side portion of grief syndrome.

I also like the idea of keeping the 7way plugged in when using the electric jack for power and I do the same when putting my slide out before hooking up to the pedestal, but I have to have the Van running or it can take A LOOOOONG TIME to get the slide in/out just on battery alone.

Larry

[Chuck_thehammer]

make a socket from pvc pipe with a slot down one side.. for handle to fit... epoxy the inside to hold a flat bit wood drill bit..

cut drill bit to length.. and use a battery powered drill. and same drill for stabilizer jacks with a 3/4 inch socket..

do a search here of photo and directions on the crank handle socket...
I did one 3 years ago.
NO MOD needed for crank handle

FYI.. Harbor Freight has a power jack for 129 and use a common 20 percent off coupon. jack is rated for 3,000 pounds. I have not used one.


DO NOT use hammer drill or Impact wrench.. will destroy gears... smooth, even power.. or arm power.

[OldRacer]

IDoMyOwnStunts wrote:
I would be interested in this mod simply because I have 2 other trailers that have no batteries that would run an electric jack. I'm not interested in adding a full size battery to a utility or horse trailer.

Yes, each trailer has an existing battery for the breakaway switch, but I wouldn't want to run an electric jack with it.

no need for an external battery. simply tap into the constant hot on your 7 pin trailer harness that connects to the tow vehicle. As long as the trailer harness is long enough for you to be able to pull up a few inches without disconnecting it, it works off the tow vehicle battery. This is what i did on my 8 x 24 v-nose enclosed car hauler and it worked perfectly.

[WNYBob]

This idea is not so far fetched as noted above. I had a truck camper with 4 manual jacks, and used a battery drill to raise & lower it. So I think it will work. I also don't want to spend money when I don't have to.

[IDoMyOwnStunts]

I would be interested in this mod simply because I have 2 other trailers that have no batteries that would run an electric jack. I'm not interested in adding a full size battery to a utility or horse trailer.

Yes, each trailer has an existing battery for the breakaway switch, but I wouldn't want to run an electric jack with it.

[OldRacer]

an electric jack is $150 from Northern Tool. You'll spend more than that on one camping trip. If $150 is too expensive, you might wanna find a different hobby. 🙂

and installation takes about 30 mins. ive put one on two of my trailers already.

[qchunter]

X2 on the impact damaging the gears in the jack. You need to use a heavy duty driver and that will act just like a electric jack.

I love my electric jack and recommend going that way.

[dodge_guy]

An impact will damage the Jack from the impacts it will see that it wasn't designed for. If anything a strong driver will work better. But since you don't own one it goes back to just by a good power tongue Jack!

[TBammer]

DutchmenSport wrote:
I have to admit, I never though of something like that. But why an impacct? And why not just swap it out for an electric jack (12 volt, runs off your camper battery). Much quieter, easier, and no extra tools needed, like drills with dead batteries?

Mostly because it is a dang sight cheaper, and no electric hook ups (already have the impact wrench). I am thinking impact for the torque when the weight hits. Newer impacts kickout 140 ft.lbs, more than enough to raise and lower when the weight is on.

[old_guy]

no I did not think of any thing that would do that. when I had my heart attack when I was 39 years old I went out and bought an electric tongue jack and have had one ever since.

[Cup_fan]

Sounds like a cool idea. Hand cranking gets really old. Up to back under the trailer, down to latch the coupler, back up to hook up the bars, back down to raise the jack. I'm getting tired just thinking about it. I would think you would need a pretty heavy duty drill with enough power to raise both the tongue and rear of the vehicle high enough to attach the spring bars. I used to use a cordless drill to raise and lower my stabilizer jacks. But now my rig has both electric tongue and stabilizer jacks and I love it. I agree with the previous poster, treat yourself to an electric jack, you won't regret it.