Upgrade to 5th wheel

[Taxman2436]

I have a 2019 Ford F-250 6.7l diesel. I’m looking at a Grand Design 320MKS but want to make sure my truck can haul it. According to the brochure the trailer is 10,721 UVW. According to Fords towing guide the truck will tow 14,800 lbs. I’m thinking that if it will I may need to beef up the rear suspension. Also, I’m not sure how “UVW” relates to the actual weight I will be towing. Also looking for hitch recommendations.
Thanks for any help provided.

Lenny

[MFL]

Taxman2436 said:

"Well, there was no evidence in the bed but it appears that I do have the rails under the bed."

Well here is the evidence in a Ford truck bed.



Now take a look at the 3300 for Ford puck installation at etrailer. You won't be disappointed using this hitch!

[Taxman2436]

Taxman2436 wrote:

MFL wrote:

Taxman2436 wrote:

MFL wrote:
No, you don't need a heavy/expensive sliding hitch. The newer FWs are designed for the newer standard bed trucks, such as the Ford 6' 9" bed.

If you can turn your TT short/ back it in tight spaces, a FW will be just as easy.

If you mean a gooseneck adapter added to your pinbox, not a good choice.

Jerry

Jerry, I was thinking with the gooseneck I would not have to give up the truck bed. Is there another way?

Many 2019 F250s will have the underbed puck system oem installed. If yours came with this system, rubber plugs in bed, the B&W 3300, is an easy in/easy out solution, allowing full use of bed, when removed. This hitch allows lots of space in front, and behind hitch while still installed.

Do you have the fifth wheel prep option, factory installed on your truck?

I don't have it.

Well, there was no evidence in the bed but it appears that I do have the rails under the bed.

[Grit_dog]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
PS, I bet many folks can’t even tell the difference in traction or tire wear. But even the most unobservant person should be able to feel when there’s grossly too much air for the load….

Then they complain about short tire life.

And a rough ride…

[Taxman2436]

MFL wrote:

Taxman2436 wrote:

MFL wrote:
No, you don't need a heavy/expensive sliding hitch. The newer FWs are designed for the newer standard bed trucks, such as the Ford 6' 9" bed.

If you can turn your TT short/ back it in tight spaces, a FW will be just as easy.

If you mean a gooseneck adapter added to your pinbox, not a good choice.

Jerry

Jerry, I was thinking with the gooseneck I would not have to give up the truck bed. Is there another way?

Many 2019 F250s will have the underbed puck system oem installed. If yours came with this system, rubber plugs in bed, the B&W 3300, is an easy in/easy out solution, allowing full use of bed, when removed. This hitch allows lots of space in front, and behind hitch while still installed.

Do you have the fifth wheel prep option, factory installed on your truck?

I don't have it.

[Cummins12V98]

Grit dog wrote:
PS, I bet many folks can’t even tell the difference in traction or tire wear. But even the most unobservant person should be able to feel when there’s grossly too much air for the load….

Then they complain about short tire life.

[Grit_dog]

StirCrazy wrote:

Taxman2436 wrote:
I have a 2019 Ford F-250 6.7l diesel. I’m looking at a Grand Design 320MKS but want to make sure my truck can haul it. According to the brochure the trailer is 10,721 UVW. According to Fords towing guide the truck will tow 14,800 lbs. I’m thinking that if it will I may need to beef up the rear suspension. Also, I’m not sure how “UVW” relates to the actual weight I will be towing. Also looking for hitch recommendations.
Thanks for any help provided.

Lenny

fill your truck with fuel and go across a scal and get your front and rear axel weights. on my trailer it advertised a pin weight of 2480 and I added in 200lbs for a hitch but the pin weight actualy came in at 2850 lbs so I had to trade in my older 3/4 tone and get a 1 tone. I just go by axel weight, so if your hooking up a 5th wheel pretty much the whole shot will be going on your rear axel so thats where you need the capacity.

Lol. Does your wife read this forum?

[StirCrazy]

Taxman2436 wrote:
I have a 2019 Ford F-250 6.7l diesel. I’m looking at a Grand Design 320MKS but want to make sure my truck can haul it. According to the brochure the trailer is 10,721 UVW. According to Fords towing guide the truck will tow 14,800 lbs. I’m thinking that if it will I may need to beef up the rear suspension. Also, I’m not sure how “UVW” relates to the actual weight I will be towing. Also looking for hitch recommendations.
Thanks for any help provided.

Lenny

fill your truck with fuel and go across a scal and get your front and rear axel weights. on my trailer it advertised a pin weight of 2480 and I added in 200lbs for a hitch but the pin weight actualy came in at 2850 lbs so I had to trade in my older 3/4 tone and get a 1 tone. I just go by axel weight, so if your hooking up a 5th wheel pretty much the whole shot will be going on your rear axel so thats where you need the capacity.

[MFL]

Taxman2436 wrote:

MFL wrote:
No, you don't need a heavy/expensive sliding hitch. The newer FWs are designed for the newer standard bed trucks, such as the Ford 6' 9" bed.

If you can turn your TT short/ back it in tight spaces, a FW will be just as easy.

If you mean a gooseneck adapter added to your pinbox, not a good choice.

Jerry

Jerry, I was thinking with the gooseneck I would not have to give up the truck bed. Is there another way?

Many 2019 F250s will have the underbed puck system oem installed. If yours came with this system, rubber plugs in bed, the B&W 3300, is an easy in/easy out solution, allowing full use of bed, when removed. This hitch allows lots of space in front, and behind hitch while still installed.

Do you have the fifth wheel prep option, factory installed on your truck?

[Grit_dog]

PS, I bet many folks can’t even tell the difference in traction or tire wear. But even the most unobservant person should be able to feel when there’s grossly too much air for the load….

[Grit_dog]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
VERY dangerous to be overinflated! WAYYYY less stopping ability. Greater tire wear and on yes horrible ride to name a few. Weigh your truck fully loaded, use the chart and add 5psi to the rears and 10 psi to the fronts. You will thank me!!!

But….but…..but that’s not what the stamp on the tire says nor does the door sticker on the truck….lol.
Honestly, anyone who has even remotely kept up with some of the posts just on this forum for a little while is being completely obtuse if still claiming max psi is always correct.

Funny, I just noticed the tire sticker on the Brodozer. Must be a Schwabyy thing or maybe the new car dealer that sold the truck. The OE store sticker was covered up by a very similar looking tire sticker showing the tire size as 37-12.50-20 with a min pressure of 60psi front and rear…:E

Other than when we bought it and the prev owner had all the tires grossly overinflated and well on his way to premature center tread wear combined with a horrible ride, have those tires ever had that much air in them. Front or rear. Even hauling the toyhauler.

Yep, you betcha, fer sure, air them suckers up to max psi regardless of conditions folks. And pretend you Flintstone tires!

[Taxman2436]

MFL wrote:
No, you don't need a heavy/expensive sliding hitch. The newer FWs are designed for the newer standard bed trucks, such as the Ford 6' 9" bed.

If you can turn your TT short/ back it in tight spaces, a FW will be just as easy.

If you mean a gooseneck adapter added to your pinbox, not a good choice.

Jerry

Jerry, I was thinking with the gooseneck I would not have to give up the truck bed. Is there another way?

[Cummins12V98]

VERY dangerous to be overinflated! WAYYYY less stopping ability. Greater tire wear and on yes horrible ride to name a few. Weigh your truck fully loaded, use the chart and add 5psi to the rears and 10 psi to the fronts. You will thank me!!!

[rhagfo]

Lantley wrote:
I'm not trying to dial in the weights,because for the most part I don't have all the data to dal it in accurately.
I have tools and other stuff in the rear of my truck. Those things are not loaded/placed in the truck to evenly balance the weight. They are simply placed in the truck wherever they fit. As a result my tires are not carrying the same weight.
If I really wanted to use the charts to fill each tire to its corresponding PSI I would have to know the weight of each tire otherwise I'm just guessing.
Secondly we go through all the calculations and then buy a dually truck because it can carry a heavy load. However we then only fill the tires part wat which derates the trucks ability.
Give me full capacity. I did not buy a dually for the soft ride.

Well do as you wish, but don’t complain about poor traction in wet or snowy conditions driving on those rocks. I run 80 front and 55 rear, even tire ware and great wet traction. Dual rears tires are derated to 2,800ish per tire. That is 11,200# total with out the 5er rear axle weighs about 4,500#, that is quite different.

[Grit_dog]

To each their own.
Hopefully the OP got the info he was seeking.