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Want to replace incandescent bulbs with brighter LED

d1h
Nomad II
Nomad II
25 REPLIES 25

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
d1h wrote:
If I did get these to try I'm really torn on the color to get. Warm white seems like it might give a little more homey atmosphere inside the RV. Natural white might be a little less yellowish. I'm sort of hesitant of getting the super white in fear of giving the appearance of a sterile operating room.


3500K is a pretty decent compromise, not as yellow as 2700K-3000K but not as harsh of a blueish light of 6000K.

The incandescent you are replacing are 2700K or a bit below that..

I know a lot of folks love to get 5000K-6500K but to me it turns everything a harsh bluish light like you get when arc welding and throws a lot of shadows so I shy away from that high of color temps.

In my home, I have found 3500K-4100K pretty comfortable and in my RV I have 3500K LEDs which for myself works great.

For the under $30 for qty of 20, they are inexpensive enough that if you don't like the color, just replace with a different color..

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
Heck, $1.20/unit? I'll give them a try. I ordered the warm white.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

d1h
Nomad II
Nomad II
If I did get these to try I'm really torn on the color to get. Warm white seems like it might give a little more homey atmosphere inside the RV. Natural white might be a little less yellowish. I'm sort of hesitant of getting the super white in fear of giving the appearance of a sterile operating room.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
2oldman wrote:
They are very cheap, so beware. The usual problem is cheaper LEDs don't have a wide voltage range tolerance, so when your converter is pumping out 14+ volts they may start flickering and burning out.

I didn't find any voltage spec other than "12v", but one reviewer said 11-14 volts. So you may want to ask about it.


^^^THIS^^^

One of the pictures does show the backside of the circuit board, it is using a simple resistor current limiting setup which severely limits the voltage range.

While you can safely operate LEDs in a undervoltage situation, overvoltage will quickly lead to LED burnouts with this simple current limiting setup.

Dry camping with no converter or solar charging happening you would be "safe", but add in the converter or solar charging and the voltage can rise above 14V since many converters and even solar controllers are designed to deliver 14.4V-15V while charging.

The good part of these ones is they have a bridge rectifier built in which means they are not polarity sensitive so even if the fixture has the pos and neg switched, the LEDs will still light.

Best advice I can give is buy a couple and try it under charging conditions and see what happens..

jdc1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Couldn't live without LED's now. Even rewired the cooktop fan lights to LED strip lighting.

2oldman
Explorer
Explorer
They are very cheap, so beware. The usual problem is cheaper LEDs don't have a wide voltage range tolerance, so when your converter is pumping out 14+ volts they may start flickering and burning out.

I didn't find any voltage spec other than "12v", but one reviewer said 11-14 volts. So you may want to ask about it.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Tvov
Explorer
Explorer
Hmmm... those look pretty good.
_________________________________________________________
2021 F150 2.7
2004 21' Forest River Surveyor

Sjm9911
Explorer
Explorer
I have used the paddle type bulbs in my pop up and TT, they are much brighter. Just make sure what type light you want. They work well.
2012 kz spree 220 ks
2020 Silverado 2500
Equalizer ( because i have it)
Formerly a pup owner.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have not used that specific product.
I've used many LED's both in RV and house
Some are "As Advertised" some are not.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Sagebrush
Explorer
Explorer
I don't think they are nearly as good or bright as the complete light fixture replacements. I like the frosted lens LED lights in natural white.

They also make versions with a built in dimmer, but I haven't tried them. My trailers were old when I ordered mine, so I needed new lenses and the white plastic was really yellowed. Two doubles cost around $20. The five pack was $44 I think. I went with the older style with the larger switch, the round switch ones look a little smaller than the originals with their rounded corners. I wasn't convinced they would cover the original foot print good, but maybe they do.

dodge_guy
Explorer
Explorer
I used similar daylight (5000k) LEDs in mine. Havenโ€™t had any issues.
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