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Water pump

LOFAT36
Explorer
Explorer
After 6 months in Arizona, arrived home end of March in Canada. Drained and winterized after getting home. Today I filled the fresh water tank and turned on the pump to fill the hot water tank. Now the pump wonโ€™t shut off. I left it off for a hour so but when I turn it back on it still runs. No leaks anywhere. Any ideas ?
19 REPLIES 19

LOFAT36
Explorer
Explorer
wa8yxm wrote:
Did you open a faucet and let the air you left in the lines bleed out.

I mean I keep hearing the line about "Air in the lines" (propane) when a furnace or water heater does not work after several tries (This by the way is BS. Fridge its possible but not very. but for a Furnace or water heater it's BS)

BUt air in the water lines CAN indeed compress enough to prevent the pump from priming.

Also Some systems have a 3-way valve on the pump INTAKE (one more though too) that lets the pump suck pink stuff out of a jug.

Finally.. MY system the fresh tank drain is in the line from the tank to the pump. if I leave it open it can suck air.
.

Well after your post about air in lines I opened all taps and turned on the pump. After they were all purged with air I shut the taps and the pump shut off. I am one happy guy. Now itโ€™s up for sale with a good conscience. Going to look for something smaller as we bought a place in Yuma for our 6 months down south in the winter.

down_home
Explorer II
Explorer II
Pressure Switch!
I don't know if you can buy one separately or not.
My old Aqua Jet just needs a few pieces but I have to send it to them/ 69.00 plus 69.00 shipping. So bought new one at Rally from factory for 149.00 and they put it in.
Ours did a little differently. It wouldn't shut off but no water until you cut the wter pump off and back on and you had water. Tun the faucet off and it still ran a bit of water but not much then none. Check valve and switch I think but they won't sell me the parts. I may pull it apart and see if it is just debris or something and keep it for a spare. Just make sure if someone else installs it they don't lose the screws to the cover plate and try to use wood screws. Amazing how hard it was to find stainless screws an had to substitute stainless cap screws.

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
philh wrote:
CavemanCharlie wrote:
Did you try out "Emergency Repair Procedure Number One" ? Bang on the pump with something. Maybe the shut off is just stuck. Don't hit it to hard or you will bust it.

I fixed a lot of stuff in my day with that procedure.

Caveman technique ๐Ÿ™‚


๐Ÿ˜› Works for me haha

LOFAT36
Explorer
Explorer
Iโ€™ll try that Caveman, nothing to lose.

philh
Explorer II
Explorer II
CavemanCharlie wrote:
Did you try out "Emergency Repair Procedure Number One" ? Bang on the pump with something. Maybe the shut off is just stuck. Don't hit it to hard or you will bust it.

I fixed a lot of stuff in my day with that procedure.

Caveman technique ๐Ÿ™‚

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
Did you try out "Emergency Repair Procedure Number One" ? Bang on the pump with something. Maybe the shut off is just stuck. Don't hit it to hard or you will bust it.

I fixed a lot of stuff in my day with that procedure.

LOFAT36
Explorer
Explorer
Worked fine to fill the hot water tank, but keeps running until I shut it off.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Did you open a faucet and let the air you left in the lines bleed out.

I mean I keep hearing the line about "Air in the lines" (propane) when a furnace or water heater does not work after several tries (This by the way is BS. Fridge its possible but not very. but for a Furnace or water heater it's BS)

BUt air in the water lines CAN indeed compress enough to prevent the pump from priming.

Also Some systems have a 3-way valve on the pump INTAKE (one more though too) that lets the pump suck pink stuff out of a jug.

Finally.. MY system the fresh tank drain is in the line from the tank to the pump. if I leave it open it can suck air.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

LOFAT36
Explorer
Explorer
No tank fill valve.

garyemunson
Explorer
Explorer
You said you "filled the tank". Do you have a tank fill valve by your city water hose inlet (not talking about the gravity fill port for the fresh water tank, but where you connect the hose for city water use in the RV)? If that fill valve is left in the fill position (instead of "city water pressure to the coach" position), the pump will just be circulating water back to the tank nonstop.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
CITY WATER FILL 'pump' bypass valve ??

our safari had that, had to be open to fill the water, and closed to use the pump
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

Sounds like a torn membrane in the pump.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

12th_Man_Fan
Explorer
Explorer
How long has it been running? First thing it does is fill the water heater if it is not bypassed.
2014 GMC Duramax 4X4 DRW Crew

2015 DRV Tradition

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
There may have been some water left in the pump that froze and changed the pressure switch adjustment. Check your pump manual for the correct adjusting procedure.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate