WD Hitch - Selection Questions based on TW and GVWR

[Baja_Man]

UPDATE:

Purchased toyhauler today (2009 Tahoe 284SA)!!!!

Weighed TW today...

TW dry (water/waste tanks empty, nothing stored inside or outside ot trailer....

First weigh: 1400#
Second weigh: 1500#

Average: 1450#

So, based on the 1450# TW.....what hitch is recommended?
Keep close to the 1450# TW....(ex. Equal-i-zer) or go with a higher weight rating?

Examples.....

Equal-i-zer 1400# (had two before and both worked great!)
Blue Ox.....1500# or 2000# (never had chains....reliable and sway control?)
Reese?????

Thanks!

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Getting ready to pick up a new to me toyhauler. Need to purchase a new Weight distribution/anti-sway hitch set up.

TH specs:

GVWR: 13000#
TW: 1300#
UVW: 7950#


If the TW is listed at 1300# (per specs), it is using a 10% formula. I don't know for sure if this is the actual weight without taking it to a scale. Since I do not have a hitch to take it to a scale, this is not possible.

On my last TT it had a TW of 1200#. I purchased a 1400# Equal-I-Zer hitch and it worked great!

Questions:

If TW is between 800#-1700# (unloaded to fully loaded-10-13%), is it wise to get a WD hitch system on the high weight end of 1700#? I am concerned that if TW is much less than this (ex. unloaded) there could be a problem.....what could the problem be? Ex...too much hitch rating vs too little hitch rating.

Also, should ball height on truck (for shank selection) be measured at trailer ball coupler height at rest....OR....after TW has been applied to truck ball?

Ex. If Trailer coupler ball height is 21" at rest, should my truck's ball height ball height be the same 21"? If so, once TW is applied, truck rear axle will drop once weight is applied and trailer will no longer be level.


Thanks!

[Baja_Man]

UPDATE:

Purchased toyhauler today (2009 Tahoe 284SA)!!!!

Weighed TW today...

TW dry (water/waste tanks empty, nothing stored inside or outside ot trailer....

First weigh: 1400#
Second weigh: 1500#

Average: 1450#

So, based on the 1450# TW.....what hitch is recommended?
Keep close to the 1450# TW....(ex. Equal-i-zer) or go with a higher weight rating?

Examples.....

Equal-i-zer 1400# (had two before and both worked great!)
Blue Ox.....1500# or 2000# (never had chains....reliable and sway control?)
Reese?????

Thanks!

[Baja_Man]

I did ask and he is using a 1200# Reese. It is undersized.

[souraider]

Baja Man I read your post in the toy hauler section where you show the Craigslist add regarding this trailer. Why don't you just ask the person you are buying it from what they were using. Any time I have sold toy haulers through CL I have always been happy to share weight information with new buyer.

[Baja_Man]

If my TW is over 1400#, I am strongly considering a Blue Ox BXW2000. If under, I would lean towards an Equal-I-Zer 1400#.

Blue Ox also sells a 2000#/20000# 2" shank. Only issue is that it only comes in a max 8" rise....that may not be enough for my truck and this toyhauler.

I'll be able to measure and weigh everything after I purchase the toyhahuler and it is delivered to my home.....hopefully this Friday!

[Baja_Man]

BarneyS wrote:
Based on the information you just gave us, I would go with the stock receiver on the truck and purchase a hitch capable of 1400lb tongue weight.
I agree with the answers you got above in blue.
Barney

Shouldn't the TW be measured FIRST before I purchase a WD hitch and/or change out my receiver? 1400# may or may not be my TW.

[BarneyS]

Based on the information you just gave us, I would go with the stock receiver on the truck and purchase a hitch capable of 1400lb tongue weight.
I agree with the answers you got above in blue.
Barney

[camp-n-family]

Baja Man wrote:


Questions:

1. Since it is a toyhauler....Will, in fact, the TW be at MAX weight when dry? If so, would a hitch rated at 1400# suffice? I ask because my truck receiver is 2" and rated at 2550# TW and 17000# towing weight....plenty for this trailer. However, a WD hitch rated higher than 1400# TW requires a 2.5" receiver hole. I would then need to change my truck's receiver.

Depends on where the weight is loaded. If you only add items to the front storage area and nothing in the garage then the tongue weight would increase. Load the trailer as you would to travel and weigh the tongue before spending any money on a new receiver and hitch. It may not be necessary.

2. Loading the toyhauler, whether in pass through storage compartment or rear of axles on toybox area will affect TW. How much depends on weight of items.

Does weight in toybox area REDUCE TW? Usually, yes. Weight added to a trailer behind the axles will reduce tongue weight. How much will depend on the weight and distance from the axle.
Does weight in truck bed INCREASE TW? No, what you load in the truck has no effect on tongue weight.
Does TW and weight in truck bed REDUCE the truck's payload capacity? Tongue weight and anything added in the truck (passengers and gear) all count towards payload.

3. Since I do not plan on loading heavy toys in rear toybox area (only bicycles, BBQ, EZ-UP, ice chest, sun shelter, firewood, etc.....probably 500# max....how will this affect trailer sway since I am not placing heavier toys as trailer was intended? Sway is usually caused by not enough tongue weight. Since you’re not loading much weight in the garage behind the axles you won’t be reducing the tongue weight much. This won’t likely be a cause of sway for you.

Thoughts on all of this.....?

A. How best to proceed with truck receiver (keep current
2"....purchase and install new one at 2.5"

B. WD hitch rating....1400# or 2000# or ?

Thanks!

[Baja_Man]

camp-n-family wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
That published 'hitch weight' is DRY based on the DRY trailer weight

1300# DRY tongue is 16%+ of the DRY trailer weight

GVWR 13,000 at 16% = 2080# WET Tongue ..... plan accordingly

It’s a toy hauler biscuit. The dry tongue weight will be at a high percentage when empty, by design. It won’t stay at 16 percent as it’s loaded. Most weight will go in the rear garage so the tongue weight will decrease by percentage.

I purchased a Sherline LM2000 tongue weight scale to be sure with my TW. I will weigh dry and loaded (including approx 25 gallons of water).

Questions:

1. Since it is a toyhauler....Will, in fact, the TW be at MAX weight when dry? If so, would a hitch rated at 1400# suffice? I ask because my truck receiver is 2" and rated at 2550# TW and 17000# towing weight....plenty for this trailer. However, a WD hitch rated higher than 1400# TW requires a 2.5" receiver hole. I would then need to change my truck's receiver.

2. Loading the toyhauler, whether in pass through storage compartment or rear of axles on toybox area will affect TW. How much depends on weight of items.

Does weight in toybox area REDUCE TW?
Does weight in truck bed INCREASE TW?
Does TW and weight in truck bed REDUCE the truck's payload capacity?

3. Since I do not plan on loading heavy toys in rear toybox area (only bicycles, BBQ, EZ-UP, ice chest, sun shelter, firewood, etc.....probably 500# max....how will this affect trailer sway since I am not placing heavier toys as trailer was intended?

Thoughts on all of this.....?

A. How best to proceed with truck receiver (keep current
2"....purchase and install new one at 2.5"

B. WD hitch rating....1400# or 2000# or ?

Thanks!

[camp-n-family]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
That published 'hitch weight' is DRY based on the DRY trailer weight

1300# DRY tongue is 16%+ of the DRY trailer weight

GVWR 13,000 at 16% = 2080# WET Tongue ..... plan accordingly

It’s a toy hauler biscuit. The dry tongue weight will be at a high percentage when empty, by design. It won’t stay at 16 percent as it’s loaded. Most weight will go in the rear garage so the tongue weight will decrease by percentage.

[Baja_Man]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
That published 'hitch weight' is DRY based on the DRY trailer weight

1300# DRY tongue is 16%+ of the DRY trailer weight

GVWR 13,000 at 16% = 2080# WET Tongue ..... plan accordingly

2080#.....WOW!!!

I'll need a new receiver and a Reese WD system as I believe they are the only ones who make a 2000# WD system.

Since I don't believe I'll ever tow at GVWR (13000)....I'll probably be closer to 10000#-11000#. At 15%...that's about a 1500# TW.

Thoughts?

[Old-Biscuit]

That published 'hitch weight' is DRY based on the DRY trailer weight

1300# DRY tongue is 16%+ of the DRY trailer weight

GVWR 13,000 at 16% = 2080# WET Tongue ..... plan accordingly

[ppine]

I just went through the same process on a used Rockwood. You want the tongue weight rating of the hitch to be close to the tongue weight of your rig. It should slightly higher than the actual tongue weight and within around 250 pounds. Then it will be strong enough but not have a harsh ride. It sounds like your old hitch would work fine.

Ideally your hitch ball height will be about an inch to an inch and a half higher than your level trailer hitch at rest. Then when you place the tongue weight on the truck and add the WE hitch you will be close to level. I set up my outfit and compared the fender well heights on my truck to the undladen heights. The front was actually 1/2 in lower, so I added another link and now it is level.

[camp-n-family]

Your tongue weight will likely be heaviest when empty so it probably won’t go over the 1400lbs your current hitch is rated for. I would try it with what you have first and see how it is. Get a proper tongue weight measurement just to make sure you don’t exceed the hitch ratings.

[Baja_Man]

I replaced my truck's hitch receiver a year ago (Curt X Heavy Duty) when I had my Outdoors RV (TW 1200#). Receiver is rated at 1700# of TW but it is 2" receiver. I believe all WD hitch systems rated over 1500# of TW are 2.5". If I went with a 2000# WD hitch system, I would have to purchase another truck receiver.

Is a 1500# TW WD hitch system enough? Guess I need to purchase a tongue weight scale and go from there....just hate to have to purchase another receiver when the one I have is near new.