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What happened to maxbrake?

partsjockey
Explorer
Explorer
I just traded trucks, and took my maxbrake of my 03 v10 Ford. Was hoping to find the adapters to use it on my 11 eb f150 but seems they're no longer. Guest its eBay bound and a factory controller to replace it.
28 REPLIES 28

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Slowmover wrote:
TUSON DirecLink is current state of the art. Disc brakes on the TT with their antilock module even more so. And the TT mounted antisway electronic device which senses sway and corrects faster than OEM TV devices.




The TV Network based after market trailer brake controllers are not faster than
OEM IBC, as they *BOTH* get their input from the same source...the TV Network

The OEM TV Anti-Sway system uses the TV ABS system to brake whichever
corner the TV's computer software indicates is appropriate. Am assuming
there is an on-board accelerometer or two to differentiate normal cornering vs yaw

But that a TV accelerometer is just a guess on my part...or if there is
a product with a trailer mounted anti-sway system...please post some links
so that I can read up on it...first career was in Industrial Controls and
still try to keep up on that stuff
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
DirectLink doesn't say what criteria is used to determine the braking current. It will work with many late model vehicles but use different inputs selecting what is available. They want to keep it proprietary, so I wouldn't want to buy a high priced controller with no information on how it operates. It plugs into the vehicle computer but that is all they will tell you. My guess is that it monitors the slowing of the vehicle when the brake lights are on and activates the trailer brakes in proportion to that slowing. Again, I have no real information but that is my thought. If the controller has no driver input, like a pressure sensor, then it may act the same as cheap accelerometer controllers but have some advantage because it can monitor speed.

Slowmover
Explorer
Explorer
TUSON DirecLink is current state of the art. Disc brakes on the TT with their antilock module even more so. And the TT mounted antisway electronic device which senses sway and corrects faster than OEM TV devices.
1990 35' SILVER STREAK Sterling, 9k GVWR
2004 DODGE RAM 2WD 305/555 ISB, QC SRW LB NV-5600, 9k GVWR
Hensley Arrow; 11-cpm solo, 17-cpm towing fuel cost

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
"You just like to argue. :B" Ya got me. lol


It does look and sound easy, but I still don't know that I would care to plumb into my brake system for a trailer brake controller. And since they never really caught on, I may not be the only person feeling that way.

Perhaps it wasn't lazy or inept people, but rather people who didn't think adding an afermarket brake controller to their hydraulic braking system was a good idea.

Considering the number of people who will spend hours adding gizmos to their cars/trucks with almost no benefit, I can't see that inability or laziness is the reason that Maxbrake is no more.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
BenK wrote:
PS...a couple of the posters on this thread are on my blocked list and only
saw their comments via PMs from others... :B :W

So am answering the guys who PM'd me :B


Geeze I hope I am not on your list.:)
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
fj12ryder wrote:
Make up your mind. First you say how simple a task it is, and then you say everyone wants easy. Which is it? Simple or easy? Of course it doesn't really matter since they don't make them anymore.


You just like to argue.:B

You know exactly what I am saying. It's easy/simple for anyone the least bit mechanically inclined.

MOST people would not have a clue how to change a fuel filter on a Cummins/RAM or the others. That is what I would consider Simple/easy.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
PS...a couple of the posters on this thread are on my blocked list and only
saw their comments via PMs from others... :B :W

So am answering the guys who PM'd me :B
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Got a few PMs asking...one didn't want this to turn into a urination contest...

Oh well, gotta respond before Barney closes this one...

What I meant by properly setup...includes the TV's brake pedal light
switch. Setup so that it turns on BEFORE it moves the MC piston rod

That begets the trailer brake controller to tell the trailer brakes to
turn on...BEFORE the TV's brakes are turned on with a tiny bit of MC
PSI...and...where those who didn't have their after market trailer brake
controllers right...

This will have the trailer brakes lead the TV brakes and how much dialed
in by the pre-set...AKA 'gain'

Many will have a TV brake pedal switch with a plunger actuation and
tough to adjust as finely as GM's brake pedal switch. Normally those
will turn on the brake lights about the same time as it pushes the
MC piston rod...so can NOT lead the trailer brakes...and the reports
or comments of bucking, banging, etc...mine do NOT




Then noodle this:

ALL vehicles sold in the USA that has agency approved braking will have
dual circuit hydraulics...mandated by DOT/NHSTA and has become the
standard world wide

Meaning that there were enough failures in the past to have the regulatory
agency dictate that all vehicles sold for public roads has this dual
hydraulic braking circuit

Which circuit did those BEST in the WORLD MC PSI sensed tap into?

I know neither of them did both...just one circuit. Noodle the
ramifications of that in reference to the historical data that had
the regulatory agency dictate the dual circuit...if that one circuit
went south...then no trailer brakes...

Then noodle or answer me which one does the current ear OEM IBC tap
into?

Just one or does the OEMs tap into both circuits? Don't think both,
as the $$$$ and the overhead both in R&D, production and warranty
would, my guess, say they only tapped into one...

The after market Prodigy does NOT have this potential issue and is
sensed on the TV's brake pedal switch that turns on the brake lights

Again, there is nothing wrong with anyone's choice...as this is a free
country to date...my opinion is stated above and not going to take
the position that it is best for everyone...just for me and those who
ask me to help setup their system...

PS...there is a after market that senses the TV's network via the
inspection port. So assume it senses the TV brake pedal switch and can
be just as good as what I prefer. Or if it senses MC PSI...not much
different than OEM IBC and predict the same route as the old MC sensed
after market products

Plus, this now adds to the complexity of the computer 'highly integrated'
system(s) and the higher potential of issues...to trying to solve a
problem...
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
Make up your mind. First you say how simple a task it is, and then you say everyone wants easy. Which is it? Simple or easy? Of course it doesn't really matter since they don't make them anymore.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
fj12ryder wrote:
That's easy to fix: don't buy it.

Maybe you can get a Maxbrake...oh wait a minute, they went out of business. Sure sign of a successful product. ๐Ÿ™‚


If you have ever towed with one please disregard. But if you have not you would be blown away towing with one.

Like I said the average Joe is not mechanically inclined anymore and would not even consider the simple task of unscrewing a brake line and threading in a T then screwing in a pressure sensor having someone lightly apply pressure to the brake pedal until the fluid coming out has no air then tightening the sensor. There is NO need to do a full brake line bleed and less than a teaspoon of fluid is lost. Everyone wants EASY!!!
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
Geeze, just because you don't like it doesn't mean it's junk. And what are the rest of us poor mortals supposed to do when this paragon of brake controllers has bit the big one? Apparently you weren't the one everyone else listened to when it came time to support the superior(?) product.

Personally I think that if it were as much superior as you think it would still be around. But it isn't, so that says something. Some really good products do go away through no fault of their own, but truly superior products generally last. Of course that doesn't explain Fiat or Citroen. ๐Ÿ™‚
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
fj12ryder wrote:
That's easy to fix: don't buy it.

Maybe you can get a Maxbrake...oh wait a minute, they went out of business. Sure sign of a successful product. ๐Ÿ™‚


Oh I fixed the problem, I never was ignorant of how controllers operate, so I never was fooled into buying cheap junk.

I now have a IBC in my Ford truck. Ford was smart enough to use a pressure sensor (like Brakesmart and MaxBrake), and not open themselves to liability by choosing a shortcut.

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
That's easy to fix: don't buy it.

Maybe you can get a Maxbrake...oh wait a minute, they went out of business. Sure sign of a successful product. ๐Ÿ™‚
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
Sport45 wrote:
Lynnmor wrote:
If hard braking is needed and the truck has little traction, the trailer will not help with the braking. There are many situations where the driver isn't controlling the brakes but there is no point getting into it, only Mickey Mouse products are currently available.


If the truck has little traction the trailer won't have much traction either. About the last thing you want in this situation is for the trailer wheels to lock up (because you've got the brake pedal planted on the floor) while the truck's anti-lock brake system is doing it's thing. The sliding trailer will try its best to swing you around backwards...


I tow a snowmobile trailer with 4 wheels and brakes on all kinds of mountain roads. You probably don't have much snow and ice in Texas. Personally I like to control the brakes and not let some pendulum make decisions for me. The controller cannot see what is on the road, if there is a short patch of ice, leaves or whatever, losing all braking is just nuts. Sure, I can reach down and activate the brakes with one hand while controlling a skid with the other, yes, that'll work.

A controller that is only effective after the truck can effectively slow the the combination is one that I don't want.