What is the best weight distribution hitch?

[BeerBrewer]

Money aside, what is the best anti-sway weight distribution hitch for a travel trailer with a 7500 lb GVWR?

I know that there are lots of WDHs out there in all price ranges and they all claim to be the best, so its very confusing. I was wondering what you all think is the best and why. Is it worth spending $3000 for hitch?

[HTElectrical]

My trailer is 11,600 Lbs, and I use a Equalizer 14,000/1400. Trailer is rock solid in all situations!!! Love the hitch, and also have had great customer service experience with the company.

[jerem0621]

I have a Dual Cam (old style) that actually had the bar pull out of the cam’s when I got into a wierd angle at a gas station. Hard to explain but it can happen

IMHO... a Dual-Cam set up is not a good match for much off roading with a TT. I took the cam adaptors and dual cam’s off and went back with the standard spring hangers and chains. I also ran two sway bars and it was just as stable on the highway/interstates as the dual cam (the secret is to use two bars)

Also, the sway bars are easily removed so there is no “anti-sway” forces working on your hitch as you articulate off road.

I would also cut the bottom inch of the shank off (if not used now) so it would be less likely to get stuck on a rock/rut/ground etc.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[ajriding]

What are the best for off-road?
I have the old-style socket with trunnion bars. I am afraid when the hitch/tongue bends up and the tension is unloaded that the trunnion will fall out of its socket.

I know I could just remove for the off-road section, but, no.
Also, clearance is issue. Having the trunnion bars hang below the trailer can be an issue with clearance. Who has done dirt with WD?


I have this - is on old trailer in pic, but using on different trailer now. On new trailer the hitch is adjusted all the way down so hangs close to scraping.

I have TC and tow a single axle cargo trailer that, currently, sits pretty low to the ground (plan on straight axle to raise it 5 inches soon).
The issues is exacerbated because of the receiver extension (about 18 inches) that amplifies the movement of TV, up and down which, itself, has the hitch a good distance from the axle.

[Ralph_Cramden]

jerem0621 wrote:
The best WD hitch is the one you adjust properly and actually use.

In theory the Pullrite and the Hensley twins are the absolute best.

But even the most basic of WD hitches will do a GREAT JOB if matched and adjusted properly.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

Spot on.

You can fork out a couple grand for bragging rights, or go THIS route for less than $500

Personally I don't use one and havent for about the last 4 years despite having a conventional Reese round bar stored away in the garage. 2500 truck, 6400 GVW trailer, drop it on the ball and go just like we do with our equipment trailers.

[2Rad4U]

jerem0621 wrote:
The best WD hitch is the one you adjust properly and actually use.

In theory the Pullrite and the Hensley twins are the absolute best.

But even the most basic of WD hitches will do a GREAT JOB if matched and adjusted properly.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

This ^^^^ x2

[jerem0621]

The best WD hitch is the one you adjust properly and actually use.

In theory the Pullrite and the Hensley twins are the absolute best.

But even the most basic of WD hitches will do a GREAT JOB if matched and adjusted properly.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[drsteve]

mikeb9550 wrote:
I may try the equalizer the next time around for these reasons alone. Simple and people swear by them.

My Husky Centerline TS (same design as the equalizer) was simple to set up, and has been nothing but reliable and solid in all situations. No sway, no porpoising, no surprises.

[mikeb9550]

Here is my take..

I have towed years with both the dual cam then upgraded to a Hensley. I actually went through 2 Hensleys due to selling them between selling trailers. Hensley has a few flaws. The receiving mouth is weak and both of mine were elongated. You also cant pitch the hitch to get full advantage of the weight distribution. Having a non adjustable hitch bar is horrible. Propride solved for all of these and I may buy one for my next trailer. Both of these can be hard to hook / unhook but you get better with practice. I did get into a couple of binds due to uneven spots at some state campgrounds. This is where these hitches suck. Odd hooking angles and steep pitches. One time I almost had to take off my hitch to get it out. They do tow great. I may try the equalizer the next time around for these reasons alone. Simple and people swear by them.

[DustyR]

I'm glad that this discussion has continued. We all have different needs and requirements for towing. If I ever purchase a trailer that challenges my tow vehicle, I'll be first in line for an HA or equivalent.

Happy Camping!

There has been a lot discussion about the correct hitch for the combo. I had purchased a newer TV about the same time I purchased the TT in my sig. I questioned the RV dealer if the the bars on the Reese hitch were heavy enough to take care of the TT. Rest assured there should be no problem, the unit looked well balanced and they had transferred the sway control from the previous TT to the new one. Not to worry, I did the usual trial run to acquaint my self with the unit, set up spent a week end in it and all was good.

Two weeks later I was on my way to Texas and I caught a cross wind in a curve and the ABS/Sway control on the Tundra started cycling. I thought to myself, in all the years towing I have never had a TT cause that type of reaction, I also was thanking the sway control built into the Tundra. I stopped at the next rest area and tightened the adjustment on the sway control bar.

Once I reached my destination I found a Cat Scale and did some weighting of the unit and found that the bars from my last TT were deficient by about 50% of transferring enough weight. Standing at the side and looking at the TT & TV everything looked good. The unit was slightly nose now as I liked.

I made a called the Mfg to find out what the dry tongue weight should be and found out that I needed a much heavier set of bars. This was done and I went with the Reese Cam Lock system and problem solved. I also set the system up as recommended for the TV I was using at the time.

I simply had meet the conditions that set a supposedly well set up unit in to one that really got my attention. Was I surprised? definitely, you really do not want a TV applying brakes in a turn.

Be safe!

[TurnThePage]

BenK wrote:
remove superfluous verbiage

Just practicing. Did it work? 😉

I'm glad that this discussion has continued. We all have different needs and requirements for towing. If I ever purchase a trailer that challenges my tow vehicle, I'll be first in line for an HA or equivalent.

Happy Camping!

[Camper-Man]

Based on my experience with the Hensley Arrow, it is the "best" hitch in terms of eliminating sway (along with the similar Pro Pride). I never experienced sway with the Hensley and it worked exactly as advertised.

Even with that knowledge, I purchased a far less expensive Husky Centerline TS hitch for my current 27-foot Grey Wolf trailer. In terms of weight distribution, the Husky performs as well or better than the Hensley Arrow. The Centerline TS does not eliminate sway like the Hensley, but it continuously controls and immediately corrects sway in every situation I've encountered. I expect any of the four-point systems (such as the Equalizer or Reese Steadi-Flex) would perform in a similar manner.

By a "four-point system," I'm referring to a hitch where sway control is provided by a highly torqued hitch head, combined with the friction of trunnion bars on sway control brackets.

[drsteve]

jnslprd wrote:
I have been reading for a while now and was absolutely sure I needed a Hensley Arrow hitch. Let me start by saying this is my first trailer. I have a 2000 chevy 2500 6.0l and a 8000lb trailer. My dealer is a Reese dealer and that is their main product. I ended up not wanting to spend the money on the HA and letting the dealer install a Reese Strait line #800. After a brief lesson I hit the road from PA to NY. The truck dives awesome and was a relief to not be affected by tractor trailers or wind. Had a scary moment and realized speed has to be respected and will be slowing the pace down. At this point I don't know if the Henley would have been better, but the Reese feels pretty safe and wasn't all that expensive.
Learning to back up, I don't think any hitch is going to help me. I don't know how you guys make it look so easy.

You don't need a Hensley unless conventional solutions won't work.

The secret to backing is practice.

Get a couple of orange traffic cones, go to a large empty parking lot, and practice. YouTube is full of vids explaining the mechanics of backing and how to make it easy.

[jnslprd]

I have been reading for a while now and was absolutely sure I needed a Hensley Arrow hitch. Let me start by saying this is my first trailer. I have a 2000 chevy 2500 6.0l and a 8000lb trailer. My dealer is a Reese dealer and that is their main product. I ended up not wanting to spend the money on the HA and letting the dealer install a Reese Strait line #800. After a brief lesson I hit the road from PA to NY. The truck dives awesome and was a relief to not be affected by tractor trailers or wind. Had a scary moment and realized speed has to be respected and will be slowing the pace down. At this point I don't know if the Henley would have been better, but the Reese feels pretty safe and wasn't all that expensive.
Learning to back up, I don't think any hitch is going to help me. I dont't know how you guys make it look so easy.

[deltabravo]

BeerBrewer wrote:
Is it worth spending $3000 for hitch?

No, unless you are full timing, and always on the move.