110 outlets and fridge not working, now batter drain

[jeanacr]

I purchased a 1988 Gulfstream Regatta. When I got it the fridge and most of the 110 outlets worked just fine. I took it to a camp site for a test run and hooked it up to 30amp and camped overnight and all worked fine except a few of the 110 outlets. AC ran, fridge was cold and I used a few of the outlets, water pump worked, etc.

Since then I've had it connected to a 110 via extension cord at home and driving it occasionally as I work on it. Last week my fridge stopped working and NONE of my 110 outlets work now - even when I'm hooked up to a 110 power on shore. My fridge has power but the CHECK light kicks on and it won't cool any more.

I have two batteries in the RV - one RV/Marine battery and a regular car battery. The dial on the console shows AMPS are good - a little above the middle. I assume this is the RV/Marine battery, not sure.

My lights started dimming the other day and it wouldn't start! I might have left something on so I figure I'd jump it, drive it around and charge up both batteries. Wouldn't start after doing this but my AMP meter on console still shows good power although still no fridge or 110's and my lights are now dimming!!!!

I'm a new RV'er but I'm mechanically savvy and have basic tools including tools for checking outlets etc. I have checked all the fuses EVERYWHERE and flipped breakers on/off. I'm not sure what to do next!

I can't help but think this is all related as it seems to be a cascading problem. Was going to look at GFI outlet in bathroom next.

Appreciate any suggestions before I spend money on a mechanic!

Thanks!!!

[CA_Traveler]

A GFCI needs 120V before you can reset it. Also it will not reset if there is a ground fault. Disconnect the output and if it resets you have a ground fault.

[jeanacr]

Appreciate all the good advice. I think I found one problem. There was a loose ground wire in the engine compartment and a blown fuse to the main breaker. I replaced the fuse, grounded the wire to the negative batter and flipped breakers in addition to physically inspecting them. Now I have cabin lights and exhaust fans but still nothing off the 110 outlets.

The converter is a really old one and I'm suspecting that's my culprit after reading all the good advice. I'm not sure how to test it but I'm going to get a voltage meter and will look at some YouTube video's. I think I'll replace the GFCI in the bathroom too. I can't seem to be able to push down the TEST button at all.

If I have to replace the converter with a new one I'll do it myself. Any advice on purchasing or installing one on this old girl?

1988 Gulftream Regatta
27 ft. Class A

Old girl has potential!!

[snapper388]

using a marine deep cycle and a auto starting battery together may also cause problems a deep cycle battery is designed for slow drain and a car battery is for heavy loads such as a car starter, there is also a difference in the way they charge.

[AllegroD]

1. Take the batteries to auto parts store for testing.
2. With shore power connected, use a multimeter to test output of converter. If no or low output, check the 120v input CB.

Why? If your converter is bad, your house battery could have been ruined by low voltage. Which ever (or both) are bad, replace em.

120 is likely a GFCI. Could be a CB.

[rockhillmanor]

Have you checked the output of the converter?
When you drive the engine charges your house battery. Parked/hooked up to shore power the converter charges your house battery.

Your interior lights, thermo stat on furnace and fridge ALL need the DC side of your coach. They don't run off the AC side of your coach.

You have 2 separate problems. An AC side problem and a DC side problem.


Check the GFI's for the AC problems even if the button is not tripped the GFI's often go bad and need to be replaced. Did you have multiple power items plugged in? Coffee pots, crock pots, hair dryers etc can NOT be plugged in when the air conditioning is on. They trip the GFI's. And make sure your shore power plug is snuggly connected and no corrosion on the plugs.

Check the output of the converter for the DC side problem.

[jeanacr]

Thanks westend - that's helpful advice and I'll check batteries, one I just bought last month but obviously something drained it. I'll be working on it this weekend and I'll keep you all posted.

Thanks!

1988 Gulfstream Regatta
Class A 27 ft

[westend]

Two issues--120V receptacles not working, 12V system not charging.
The first issue is probably a GFCI or two tripped. This could be from a ground fault either in the RV or along the path to the source of power.
The battery issue is another issue and should be diagnosed with a multimeter noting voltages at the battery and back to any switches, circuit breakers, fuses, ant to the devices. If you have a fully charged battery, your lights won't be dimming.

[nomad297]

jeanacr wrote:
Was going to look at GFI outlet in bathroom next.

This would have been the first thing I checked -- not the last.

Bruce

[CA_Traveler]

Yes, have the batteries load tested.

[CA_Traveler]

Check all GFCIs and get the plugs working.

Doubtful the charger is on a GFCI but possible. Battery discharging might be unrelated. Sounds like both battery banks are discharged which suggests another issue.

Use a auto charger and get the batteries charged. Then go after the cause using a DVM and perhaps a DC clampon ammeter.

If you post your rig, year and model it should help. Put it in your signature.

[2oldman]

I can't explain all your issues, but some of it indicates your batteries are shot. Your meter is likely reading Volts, not Amps.