220v in 110v system

[Griffin_sride]

My in-law accidently plugged my 30amp coach into a 220 dryer outlet. Now I'm trying to figure out if the ac side of the fridge is ruined. I already pulled the exterior cover and found one burnt fuse that I replaced. The control panel on the inside functions properly changing over to ac when shore power is connected but it will only cool if I switch it over to gas. Does anyone know of any other fuses I can check? I already pulled all the fuses on the inside and they're good. Does anyone know of a capacitor or other eletrical componet that may have burnt up that I can replace?

So far other that the tv and dvd player everything has been protected by fuses and are working again after replacing the fuse.

Fingers crossed on the fridge!!!

[joebedford]

kmack wrote:
I'm not asking or expecting him to

You shouldn't have to ask.

[time2roll]

Glad to hear all is well. Never too soon to get a Progressive Industries EMS to protect the RV in all conditions. Sure you can repair stuff but it is the loss of use or spoiled trip that cannot be recaptured.

[kmack]

I'm not asking or expecting him to. I should have been diligent enough to check the situation myself. I accept that. (Life-learning experience #13,923)

Besides, he did "pony-up" his 50 acres of property for a weekend-long hog hunt for my daughter, myself, and a military veteran friend of mine! With a standing option to return again.

[Dave_H_M]

so mack, isn't your "friend" going to pony up.

[kmack]

Follow-up for my issues in case someone later finds this thread...

- Replaced power converter with a new 45 amp unit (PD9145A). It was a direct swap.
- Replace both batteries with new

A/C has been working fine since yesterday evening, along with the fridge and all other 120V appliances. All 12V circuits are good and the lights are nice and bright.

It appears that this was a 3-part problem. The (2) 6V house-batteries going out was one problem. Me trusting that my friend had a 120V circuit to plug the RV into and not a 220V circuit like I asked of him (I should have checked) was the 2nd problem. The 3rd one being that, because of #2, I probably hurt the converter, which further caused the demise of the batteries.

I consider myself lucky in this endeavor. All told, this has only cost me about $500 in parts. Of course my labor is free!

[Chum_lee]

joebedford wrote:
Why do people have 240/230/220V dryer plugs on the outside of their houses?

There are more than a handful of 220V appliances which can use 220V (240V) single phase receptacles. Arc welders, portable range tops, BBQ's, smokers, pumps, compressors, portable AC's/heaters, ceramic kilns, etc. Most permanent installations are hard wired, but there many different types of 220V convenience receptacles. (that's the problem in this thread) Many European countries use 220V single phase as the standard household voltage indoors as well as outdoors.

Using (plugging into) a plug that looks "close enough" should be a good enough warning sign, but, it often isn't.

Chum lee

[Dave_H_M]

Griff, I apologize for my statement about using a hammer for the plug in. It was not relevant to your question

Dave

[Ralph_Cramden]

We had a bozo show up at a 30amp site late Friday evening, break out a screwdriver and proceed to rewire a shared between 2 sites pedestal to power his 50amp 5er. In the process he somehow back fed something into our trailer and the other 4 or 5 people between him and us, we were on the end of the circuit. We lost the microwave and fridge but everything else survived. More than likely because it was only for a split second before his pedestal modification shut down the entire loop for 1/2 an hour, before the state park maintenance people could get there and figure out what the hell happened. This was the first trip with a new trailer before I got around to installing the Progressive Industries hardwired EMS.....its the best thing you can add to your rig.

It cost me about $250 and who knows about the other 4 or 5 people. All the amatuer electrician received was a $105 citation.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

What inscription have you chosen for the headstone of your In-Law?

[kmack]

So I got new batteries.
Pulled the converter out to test. Plugged it into 110V outlet to test DC voltage coming out.
When I went to plug it in, something flashed and popped inside the unit.
No DC voltage coming out. So I'm assuming it's dead. Getting another on order now.

Current model is a 40 amp unit. I'm ordering a 45 amp replacement. I'll see how things shape up
when it comes in (crossing fingers)!

[wa8yxm]

time2roll wrote:
I can't believe 'accidentally' is the word. More like 'with great effort'.

Done is done. Test everything 120v and replace as needed.

I can think of a good holiday gift this year:
http://www.progressiveindustries.net/rv-power--surge-hardwired

It appears I've been around longer than you folks.

I have seen 220 volt dryer outlets that had a round "Neutral" (not safety ground) Just like the TT-30 and which would accept a TT-30 plug.. Last time was my first year full timing.. Of course by the time I actually SAW the outlet.. I already knew it was 240 volt.. But then as they say I had a clue (I saw the circuit breaker before I found the outlet.. Ganged 60 amp was what they call a CLUE)

[joebedford]

Why do people have 240/230/220V dryer plugs on the outside of their houses?

[kmack]

Thank you! I'll start with the batteries, then the converter, and see where it takes me from there.

[time2roll]

kmack wrote:
- PD9140A power converter installed in MH
- output voltage from converter (while hooked into house batteries) is showing 8.6V. But that is understandable since batteries are low.

You need a solid 12v system with 13.2+ volts before you continue to diagnose the rest. Many of the controls such as thermostat run on 12 volt power.