โAug-16-2015 05:28 PM
โAug-18-2015 11:48 AM
DrewE wrote:mkirsch wrote:mmiille wrote:
I use a wye adapter to plug into two different outlets. Get more amps. They can't be GFCI outlets though.
http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-50-Amp-Optimizer-250-Volt-Connector/dp/B007H5WUGI/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1439811355&sr=8-18&keywords=rv+power+cord+30+amp
That looks kind of suicide-cordy to me... How can they legally sell things like that?
Probably they have all sorts of disclaimers on the package.
โAug-17-2015 09:05 PM
โAug-17-2015 09:00 PM
โAug-17-2015 03:28 PM
AllegroD wrote:
Amazon
โAug-17-2015 12:49 PM
DrewE wrote:mkirsch wrote:mmiille wrote:
I use a wye adapter to plug into two different outlets. Get more amps. They can't be GFCI outlets though.
http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-50-Amp-Optimizer-250-Volt-Connector/dp/B007H5WUGI/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1439811355&sr=8-18&keywords=rv+power+cord+30+amp
That looks kind of suicide-cordy to me... How can they legally sell things like that?
Probably they have all sorts of disclaimers on the package. (As an aside, the 50A male to 30A female reducers typically have fine print that states they should only be used on supply circuits with 30A breakers or fuses, and similarly the 30A to 15A adapters state they should be limited to 15A circuits. I've never seen a 30A RV outlet wired to a 15A breaker in my life, so this fine print must be routinely ignored...but it provides some sort of legal protection for the maker, and makes them at least nominally code compliant when used according to the manufacturer's instructions.)
These are not quite as dangerous as a male-to-male "widowmaker" cord, in that one unplugged male connector is not generally hot from the other one. (If the RV had any actual 240V loads, there would be a sneak path from one to the other.) They do, however, tie the two neutral lines together, which can easily lead to overloading a neutral, particularly if the two circuits are on the same leg. A reverse polarity or otherwise miswired outlet could also lead to a popped breaker or fireworks with one of these.
More generally speaking, if a GFCI pops (and it's not due to the GFCI itself being faulty), something is introducing a ground or neutral fault or other bad situation into the wiring, and the proper and safe solution is to fix the fault rather than avoid using the GFCI.
โAug-17-2015 12:07 PM
mkirsch wrote:mmiille wrote:
I use a wye adapter to plug into two different outlets. Get more amps. They can't be GFCI outlets though.
http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-50-Amp-Optimizer-250-Volt-Connector/dp/B007H5WUGI/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1439811355&sr=8-18&keywords=rv+power+cord+30+amp
That looks kind of suicide-cordy to me... How can they legally sell things like that?
โAug-17-2015 11:52 AM
raroberts wrote:
I do this all the time when I bring my trailer home to pack. There is a 50 amp to 30 amp pigtail and a 30 to 15 amp converter block I use to plug in the trailer t charge the batteries and run fridge. I can even run th a/c sometimes. It sometimes it blows the breaker
โAug-17-2015 10:14 AM
โAug-17-2015 07:43 AM
mmiille wrote:
I use a wye adapter to plug into two different outlets. Get more amps. They can't be GFCI outlets though.
http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-50-Amp-Optimizer-250-Volt-Connector/dp/B007H5WUGI/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1439811355&sr=8-18&keywords=rv+power+cord+30+amp
โAug-17-2015 07:27 AM
โAug-17-2015 04:39 AM
โAug-17-2015 03:44 AM
โAug-17-2015 02:41 AM
Goostoff wrote:
This is what you are looking for. I know the struggles of not wanting to drag that 50 amp cord out all the time.
โAug-16-2015 09:06 PM