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5th Wheel Lug Nuts Seized??

5thwheeleroldma
Explorer
Explorer
Had a blowout and changed the tire myself (well mostly a great young border patrolman did), but the nuts were seized on the lugs. We had to heave and pull all the way out to the last thread on the lug, instead of just breaking it free. It was tough all the way! Is this normal after a few years?

The trailer is 6 1/2 years ago and until about 3 years ago, a lug nut would spin off by finger after breaking free. They are not, have never been cross threaded. My tire guy says this is normal on a trailer?? He says just put some anti seize compound (not lubricant) on the threads and don't worry.

Is he right? Should I be looking at replacing lugs? Would new lug nuts help? Thanks in advance.
21 REPLIES 21

5thwheeleroldma
Explorer
Explorer
No, the tire guy was not the one involved with the trailer tires. Both sides of the trailer have the same problem. The nuts went on fairly well, using anti seize compound, but not the old spin on with thumb and finger I used to have.

I took a nut off this morning to take around and look for new lug nuts. To my old "cateract surgeried" eyes, the threads in the lug nut looked rounded and destroyed, the threads on the studs looked sharp and undamaged. I'm thinking the guy who said install new lug nuts every 2 or 3 years may be on to something.

Not to change subject; I sure did see better close up (5" from the eyeballs) before surgery. Of course distance vision is much better. Piles of cheap glasses and magnifying glasses don't really do the trick.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
What was it like putting the nuts back on?
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Charlie_D_
Explorer
Explorer
I have never used a lubricant on studs but working in corrosive environments Never-Seize was mandatory. Used in all situations and many times in high torque high pressure applications. It changes torque value.
Enjoying Your Freedom?
Thank A Veteran
Native Texan
2013 Prime Time Crusader 330MKS
2018 Chevy 2500 D/A Z71 4x4 Offroad
2006 Holiday Rambler Savoy 33SKT-40,000 trouble free miles-retired
2006 Chevy 2500 D/A-retired
2013 Chevy 2500 D/A-retired

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'm curious, which side of the trailer did this happen on?
And have you tried the other wheel on that side?
The wheels on the other side?
I ask because road action tends to tighten the passenger side lugs, and loosen the driver side. It used to be common to use Left-Hand threaded fasteners on the driver side wheels, but not much anymore.
If one side is going to work loose before the other, it's going to be the driver side. I don't know if that's ever meant the passenger side becomes over-tight...
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
FWIW I've used anti-seize on all the lug nuts on all my cars, trucks, trailers, and motorcycles for several decades. I have never, ever had any issues and I've never had a lug nut loosen up over time. And, on the plus side, the wheels will come off when I choose to remove them. And I intend to keep on with my practice. If something works, stick with it. ๐Ÿ™‚

Although you do need to make the tire change people aware that you're using anti-seize if you have them remove/replace your wheels.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

John_Joey
Explorer
Explorer
So do you (or have you) camp anywhere near the Texas Gulf coast? Lot's of salt air that just loves to rust up things.

Clean them up with a wire wheel, give them a squirt of Corrosion-X (Academy or Sutherlands)then see if you can spin them on by hand. If you can, finish up the job and have a cold one and don't worry about it.
Thereโ€™s no fool, like an old fool.

mpfireman
Explorer
Explorer
5thwheeleroldman wrote:
OK, I will clean studs with wire brush, use anti seize compound and new chrome lug nuts.

Do I really have to replace the studs? Can't do that myself, but guess if I hafta, then I hafta.


DO NOT use any type of anti seize compound or any other type of lubricant on your lug nuts, or studs. Ask any auto or tire shops about doing this.
1998.5 Dodge Ram Quad Cab Cummins
1998 Sunnybrook 27RKFS Fiver

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Lug nuts and studs are CAREFULLY engineered by SAE so the nuts are not nearly as hard or strong as the studs. So over-tightening STRETCHES and DISTORTS the threads in the nuts.

Wire brush, wipe the STUD threads clean, then screw on a new lug nut by hand. If it spins on by hand and needs only a small wrench tweak here and there to pass burred stud threads, you are home free.

Your trailer guy may need his nuts tightened as a proper example.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
Quote:
My tire guy says this is normal on a trailer??
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The same tire guy that over tightened them, the same one thats trying to save his ashed ?
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

Charlie_D_
Explorer
Explorer
Be careful when replacing lug nuts. I bought some full lug nuts at Pep Boys. Found that the ribs of the lug nuts contacted the bore of the rim and did not tighten against the face of the rims resulting in 2 broken studs and a loose wheel.
Enjoying Your Freedom?
Thank A Veteran
Native Texan
2013 Prime Time Crusader 330MKS
2018 Chevy 2500 D/A Z71 4x4 Offroad
2006 Holiday Rambler Savoy 33SKT-40,000 trouble free miles-retired
2006 Chevy 2500 D/A-retired
2013 Chevy 2500 D/A-retired

Airstreamer67
Explorer
Explorer
Because of the problem the OP had, I've been lubing wheel studs/nuts for many years now. I use a torque wrench too, and derate the values by 30% or so to compensate for the lubrication factor. No problems no more.

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
Often times the stud will also be damaged when they are that hard to remove. Buy new nuts and see if they go on easily. If they dont, then the studs are probably bad. Before putting the wheels back on use anti seize on the threads. I like to put it on the threads but not the nut/wheel contact area.
There are many opinions on this topic but I have always used it with no problems. It also works well on the center hub area to prevent wheel hub seizure.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/per...

http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
I would leery off using anti-seize on wheel lugs.
I would clean them good and just use a small amount of oil.
Leave the WD-40 in the garage!
Use some brake clean to remove any left over debris after wire brushing the studs(if you use the old ones).

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

robatthelake
Explorer
Explorer
You actually can replace Studs Yourself, you just need a BIG Hammer to drive them out.
That said it isn't going to save You much money and You might hurt Yourself!
Rob & Jean
98 Dutch Star Diesel Pusher ..07 Honda CRV AWD