A bad converter?

[Winged_One]

2011 Coachmen Brookstone, 50 amp, with a Progressive EMS-HW50C inline that I installed 6 years ago.

This last camping trip of 4 days to Ludington Michigan State Park. 30 amp service. It seemed no issues from the park. No storms.
2nd day noticed the bathroom GFCI was tripped. Maybe first time since we have owned the trailer.
3rd day tried the living room stereo/dvd player. Acted very weird. Very slow running of the DVD. Would not seek out radio stations. No sound. Figured it had gone bad.

Everything else seemed ok. Fridge ran on AC without issue. TV's worked ok.
Arrive home. Plug into 20 amp service at home, just like we have when loading or unloading for the last 6 years.
Trips the GFCI outlet in the garage (where we plug in). The garage has its own circuit breaker (switchable) in the garage that then goes to a GFCI outlet. Same everything we have always used for 6 years. Checked breaker, GFCI, extension cord, all ok and normal.

Plug into the trailer, with the Progressive operating, shows no issues on the monitor panel (E0), 124 volts, normal. When Progressive lets the power through (like it normally does after several seconds), a "clunk" is heard in the area of the Progressive and an instant trip of the GFCI in the garage.
If I bypass the Progressive (with the switch on the Progressive monitor), instant trip.
There are 2 GFCI outlets in the trailer (stock). I have disconnected both. No change.

I turned off all the trailer breakers, applied power and no fault.

I then turned on the main breaker in the trailer, no fault.

I went through all individual breakers and no faults until I turned on the breaker labeled for the "converter". Instant trip.

I know I am asking a lot, but would you say the converter might have gone bad (or loosened connections)?

Might a bad converter explain the bathroom GFCI tripping and the stereo going bad?

Thank you again for any input you can provide.

[Winged_One]

Thanks guys. I will be tearing into it tomorrow.

[ScottG]

If disconnecting the converters ground connection stops the tripping, it's still bad and needs replacing to be safe.

[BFL13]

Is the converter hard wired or does it have a cord you plug into a receptacle? If the latter, unplug it and go with battery for 12v and shore power for 120v. If ok, then plug something else in to that receptacle instead of the converter. Plug the converter into a different receptacle on a different circuit and see if that circuit now causes a GFCI trip. Use extension cords as required.

If the converter is hard wired, its black wire will go to a breaker and its white wire goes to the neutral buss. You can move the black wire over to a different breaker and see if the GFCI goes there now.

Is the converter chassis grounded to the frame of the RV or not? If so, try it with that chassis ground disconnected. 12v ground and 120v ground are shared in the Rv where both use the frame, so all sorts of funny things can happen.

I got GFCIs mostly from the outside receptacle getting water in it and it was on the same GFCI circuit as most of the inside receptacles.

[ScottG]

The PDI doesn't care about GFCI so it wouldn't do anything about it.
Sounds like your converter has failed. A loose connection isn't going to cause a GF unless a wire is completley disconnected and touching ground someplace.
The converter might cause the GFCI to trip IF it's powered by it and the stereo could be affected by excessive ripple on the 12V circuit.
Do these items behave with the converter disconnected (not just having the breaker off)?

FWIW, flipping a breaker wont always isolate a ground fault even though it seems to have done so in this case.