AC/DC Compressor Refrigerators

[Community Alumni]

I was looking at a motorhome that was equipped with an all-electric compressor refrigerator. I have never seen one before in a motorhome.

I found a video on the net about the pros and cons of compressor v. absorption units and some of the pros on the compressor units is the ability to regulate the temperature much better and the fridge does not need to be leveled. One of the negatives is the sound they make when the compressor comes on, just like the residential units.

It's worth mentioning the RV came equipped with 200 watts of solar panels to help keep the batteries charged. As someone that dry camps frequently, I'm wondering how often the generator has to run to keep the batteries charged. As you all know, absorption refrigerators can run practically forever on very little propane.

I'd like to hear from anyone that has one of these RV compressor refrigerators, not the residential ones.

The link below shows the refrigerator I saw in the motorhome. There is next to nothing on the net about these fridges so I'm assuming they're fairly new.

https://www.rvpartscountry.com/Norcold-AC-DC-RV-Refrigerator-DE006-1r-built-in.html

[drsteve]

pnichols wrote:

However reading in these forums, I'm getting the impression that either late model propane refrigerators are manufactured cheaply or RV manufacturers aren't installing them properly in newer RVs.

Winner winner chicken dinner!

[pnichols]

wa8yxm wrote:
Though the logic is not... IN my not very humble opinion valid. WHY did someone say that electric was better if you boondock a lot and propane if parked on a nice level pat at a campground.

Because he does not understand how to level his trailer.

You see Propane needs to be close to level (Generally within 3 Degrees. Does anyone have any idea as to how much OFF LEVEL 3 degrees is.. side to side over 4 1/2 inches. that's 3 slabs of 2X tire width folks)

But electric fridges are good if 3-or even 14 degrees off level (Danger of rollover off level).

Clearly you are not going to be leaving your RV that off level if you plan to sleep in it. SIde to side (I worked it out several times and it's over 3 slabs of 2x lumber no Bouncing down the road by the way it does not matter so much...

I went with Propane.

John - thanks for your clear and rational information above!

As I understand it, modern versions of propane refrigerators don't need to be parked as level as older versions. We could never walk around in or sleep in an RV anywhere near as off level as modern propane refrigerators allow, anyway. Also, a few hours here and there off level outside of propane refrigerator recommendations while shopping, dining, sight seeing, etc. doesn't do long term harm to them.

Once years ago we had to park way, way off-level for 3-4 hours while attending a picnic. The propane refrigerator's internal temperature rose to near 60 degrees during that time but apparently no harm was done, as our propane refrigerator has continued to perform spectacularly ever since. Just for what it's worth, we do even travel off-highway in our Class C motorhome using roads that are definitely non-level.

However reading in these forums, I'm getting the impression that either late model propane refrigerators are manufactured cheaply or RV manufacturers aren't installing them properly in newer RVs.

[MrWizard]

First three motor homes came with propane fridge
First two worked, #3 was dead on arrival replaced it
#4 dead on arrival, paid for repair, did not work, guy replaced cooling unit
It blew up
I install a120v compressor fridge works great for eight years, still working for new owner
This one has an LP fridge, I think it is the best working l.p. Fridge I have ever had, I hope it keeps working that way

Not sure what I will do if it dies

[wa8yxm]

Though the logic is not... IN my not very humble opinion valid. WHY did someone say that electric was better if you boondock a lot and propane if parked on a nice level pat at a campground.

Because he does not understand how to level his trailer.

You see Propane needs to be close to level (Generally within 3 Degrees. Does anyone have any idea as to how much OFF LEVEL 3 degrees is.. side to side over 4 1/2 inches. that's 3 slabs of 2X tire width folks)

But electric fridges are good if 3-or even 14 degrees off level (Danger of rollover off level).

Clearly you are not going to be leaving your RV that off level if you plan to sleep in it. SIde to side (I worked it out several times and it's over 3 slabs of 2x lumber no Bouncing down the road by the way it does not matter so much...

I went with Propane.

[MrWizard]

An electric compressor fridge is great
For anyplace and time you do not want to take the time to get level
Curbside parking, unlevel parking lots like rest areas and campgrounds with sites that are hard to get level

[STBRetired]

Have Dometic chest type AC/DC unit in basement. Run it on AC when camped, DC while traveling. Works great. Can't hear it inside MH. When getting food in/out, if the unit is running, I can hear the fans but not really hear the compressor. If was replacement for MH fridge, I suppose you would be able to hear it, but I would not think it would be bothersome. DW runs a fan at night so I would not be able to hear the fridge. Since we have 120V about 99% of the time when camping, I will replace the propane fridge with a residential when it fails. Will run it from its own inverter/charger and batteries.

[CaLBaR]

crosscheck wrote:
"

I know when I'm traveling, and have to stop at a Walmart while enroute, there is no substitute for a propane fridge."

The OP wanted to hear from anyone who"has" a AC/DC compressor fridge. A number of previous posters who have or had DC compressor fridges have mentioned the benefits of this type of fridge in an RV situation while dry/boondock or any kind of camping.

I do not understand why stopping at Walmart would require a propane fridge only.

Dave

If I overnight at Walmart and it is cold outside and furnace is running I need as much battery power for the night as I can get. Propane fridge won't use nearly as much battery as the DC fridge so the furnace keeps us warm at night.

[crosscheck]

"I know when I'm traveling, and have to stop at a Walmart while enroute, there is no substitute for a propane fridge."

The OP wanted to hear from anyone who"has" a AC/DC compressor fridge. A number of previous posters who have or had DC compressor fridges have mentioned the benefits of this type of fridge in an RV situation while dry/boondock or any kind of camping.

I do not understand why stopping at Walmart would require a propane fridge only.

Dave

[Atlee]

ajriding wrote:

If you go from house to campground and always camp on the level pads, then propane is best.
If you boondock or travel in the camper a lot parking to sightsee and want to leave fridge on then electric fridge works easier.

Don't you have these backwards? If you're driving house to campground, electricity might be best, since you'll always have electricity.

If you're boondocking a lot, without campsite supplied electricity, wouldn't propane be best?

I know when I'm traveling, and have to stop at a Walmart while enroute, there is no substitute for a propane fridge.

[ajriding]

I have had, and do have, both. Typical propane rv fridges, and I have an ARB 50 quart "cooler" with the Danfoss compressor.

It is a toss up for me but propane will run forever rain or shine.
*Propane has to be level is why I like the ARB compressor fridge.
The propane fridge is more powerful, and bigger cabinet and has separate freezer than my ARB.


*I have solar, so it is free to run as long as there is sun. 200 watts minimun, 300+ better since you will be using other battery powered items.
I can go 3 days before the two batteries are weak if rainy or too cloudy or too far north.
Does not have to be level which can be nice when stopping along the way or having to park (not camp) on a slope.
But you do have to be aware of power usage as the fridge will need most of the available power, forget running the inverter for any length of time at night (though in daytime power is abundant).

If a camper came with either one i would not stress, both are good.
If you go from house to campground and always camp on the level pads, then propane is best.
If you boondock or travel in the camper a lot parking to sightsee and want to leave fridge on then electric fridge works easier.

[drsteve]

Dusty R wrote:
During the first energy crunch I took class, at a local community collage, on alternate source of energy. There is was said that Michigan ranked 47th out of the 48 continual states of available sunshine.
Have any of you campers with solar panels camped in Michigan and noticed less power being produced?

Dusty

Newer panels do much better with partial sun. Germany, a shady country, gets about 10% of its energy from solar.

[Anna_Sail]

Vitrifrigo has always been and still is assembled in Italy, they just built new, bigger production facilities last year. No way are these made in China!!!

[landyacht318]

I have a 1.8 cubic foot Vitrifrigo c51is, now 6 years old which then was assembled in Italy, now tey re assembled in China, big surprise right?

. I boought DC only as if I have Ac available My meanwell powersupply can make more than enought to continue powering the fridge on DC as well as properly charging my battery.

The compressor is the Danfoss Secop BD35f, and these are variable RPM. more RPM means lesser duty cycle but bigger amp draw.

I run mine at the minimum 2K rpm and this starts at about 2.8 amps and declines to 2.2 amps nearer the end of the compressor cycle~ 5 minutes later. The duty cycle depends on ambient temperature the contents and how much I am opening the door of course, but keeping it closed half full at 32.5 f in 70F ambients it is about 4:30 on and 14 to 16 minutes off.

max RPM is 3500 rpm and I think this correlates to about 5.5 amps. not sure, never installed the resistor to increase rpm to that range and have no need to do so on this size fridge.

Next compressor size up for larger units is the Danfoss BD50. No experience with it.

I did have a Norcold with a sawafuji swing compressor that lasted about 5 years. Noisy vibrating annoying and not wuite as efficient..

mine averaged about 0.62AH each hour consumption in 70F ambient temperatures maintaining 32.5f interior teps as I use it. but I have added extra insulation on 5 sides, and my condenser ventilation is optimized with a better fan that has No chance of recycling air the condenser or compressor has already heated.

I've no experience running a residential fridge from an inverter, but I highly doubt I could ever get it to consume as little as my Danfoss powered 12/24 compressor fridge. I suspect a large enoough inverter and the extra batteries and charging required to power it would eat up any potential cost savings of a dorm/ residential fridge over as 12vDc fridge at least in the size fridge I am using.

[CJW8]

After some modifications my Norcold (nevercold) has been working well. If it ever fails I am going to replace the cooling unit with a compressor cooling unit from JC Refrigeration. They have several options including compressor only, Double boiler absorption, Hybrid, and helium filled.JC-Refrigeration