Adding a heat strip to a Ducted A/C Unit...

[deltabravo]

.... sounds simple enough, but I got to thinking about this and concluded I bet it won't work.... so correct me if I'm wrong.

Ducted A/C in my rig (and most others I've seen) are tied to the thermostat on the wall, much like a home T-stat, which controls heat and cool functions.

Since there's no controls on the actual A/C unit to engage the heat, then it would seem impossible (and pointless) to install a heat strip in a ducted A/C unit, because there's no way to control it. The wall T-stat's "heat" function is tied to the propane furnace.

Is my line of thinking correct?

[Dusty_R]

IN our '03 24V Itasca I added an electric toe kick heater and a programable thermostat. It was a rather easy install. We now have a '15 27Q Itasca and I had planed to do the same to it, But this one will not be so easy, so I don't know what we are going to do.
A portable electric space heater is always in the way, and no programable t-stat.

Dusty

[TXiceman]

Personally, I feel that heat strip in the A/C unit is a waste of money. Due to the volume of air pushed, the leaving air temperature is not very warm. You are much better off purchasing a small cube heater and plugging it in to a wall socket.

Ken

[Bumpyroad]

I have been in some parks where they charge extra if you have electric heat. having a unit on top of your RV making a bunch of fan noise is a dead giveaway.
bumpy

[scottykrug]

Mine is ducted as well. Installed two weeks after burning 40+ lbs of propane for heat, fridge, and hot water. Decided the $ of the strip/tstat/computer were worth the investment.

[eHoefler]

Bamaman1 wrote:
If you have an a/c unit that's ducted, you cannot put any electric coil into it.

Electric coils can be put in the units that have the knobs on the ceiling face plate, however.

Not true!! Mine is ducted and I have a factory element installed.

While it won't really heat the coach, it will warm it up if the outside temps are above 40*. Also, when using alternate heat, space heaters, I let it cycle to help distribute the heat throughout the coach. The element keeps it from moving cold air.

[road-runner]

If you have an a/c unit that's ducted, you cannot put any electric coil into it.

Electric coils can be put in the units that have the knobs on the ceiling face plate, however.

I have an RVP/Coleman ducted unit with the heat strip. It's a factory or field-installed option.

[Bamaman11]

If you have an a/c unit that's ducted, you cannot put any electric coil into it.

Electric coils can be put in the units that have the knobs on the ceiling face plate, however.

[Hornnumb2]

I like the heat strips, I am in Texas and like it cold at night but the strip will keep the nip out of the air at night in the colder months. I have added it to the last 2 trailers and it does require a new thermostat and control box..

[road-runner]

I think the heat strips are a good idea, but the way it was implemented on my RVP/Coleman heat pump it's close to useless, because it can't be controlled manually. When heat is called for by the thermostat the heat strip is turned on by an outside thermostat in the 35 to 40 degree range. Otherwise the heat pump runs. You probably can't exercise it at home because of this, which leads to the major problem: You're out camping, it's cold enough to kick on the heat strip, and it stinks like heck because it hasn't been run for a while. This is not when you want to open windows, so you just shut it off. I modified mine so I could manually select the heat strip and I like it. It's not nearly as noisy as the air conditioner, and unlike the heat pump, it throws out heat immediately instead of 5+ minutes after you turn it on.

[Pirate1]

I wanted to install the "cheap heat" system but I didn't have enough room for the unit in the cabinet. It is probably the best electrical heating system out there.

http://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/

[Terryallan]

Golden_HVAC wrote:
Why?

The cost of the heat strip is normally well over $75 and a portable electric heater you can bring into the room you are located in, it is very quiet, and easy to replace for $20 - $25.

Also the noise from my air conditioner is a lot compared to my portable heaters. I have 3 of them, and use them mostly on low heat, blowing on me, so my feet are warm, or to heat up the bathroom just before using it.

Each heater has a thermostat, and is very compact. DO not buy the huge oil filled ones, or ones with a dome that has a glowing 200F coil on it. Those take to long to cool off before you can put them away. . .

Good luck,

Fred.

I agree with the Why? Heat strips do very little heating. Think hair dryer. Mostly a waste of money. The portable heater would make better sense. However. I do use the oil filled heaters. Silent, and good heat. Mine cools off while I dump the tanks. But if in a hurry could take longer than you want.

[Golden_HVAC]

Why?

The cost of the heat strip is normally well over $75 and a portable electric heater you can bring into the room you are located in, it is very quiet, and easy to replace for $20 - $25.

Also the noise from my air conditioner is a lot compared to my portable heaters. I have 3 of them, and use them mostly on low heat, blowing on me, so my feet are warm, or to heat up the bathroom just before using it.

Each heater has a thermostat, and is very compact. DO not buy the huge oil filled ones, or ones with a dome that has a glowing 200F coil on it. Those take to long to cool off before you can put them away. . .

Good luck,

Fred.

[Chris_Bryant]

The Dometic Single Zone LCD system would work- uses 3 wires between Thermostat and control board. Just have to replace them both.
Should cost around $150 for heat strip, SZLCD T-stat, and box.

[SoundGuy]

gbopp wrote:
Worst case scenario, you could just add a second thermostat to control the heat strip.

But, based on the above posts, the correct thermostat is available..
Problem solved. 🙂

Maybe, maybe not ... it would also depend on whether the wiring harness running from the A/C to the thermostat is suitable for also running that electric heating element. This wiring will have originally been installed as the coach was being built so running a different one through the walls and ceiling could be problematic after the fact. Rather than rely on forum WAGs the OP would be well advised to have an authorized dealer of whatever make / model A/C he owns contact the manufacturer with the model number, product number, and serial number of the A/C and ask what's involved.