Adding Inverter for dry camping

[jcarlilesiu]

I would like to add an additional battery (have one group 27 now), possibly a solar charging system and an inverter.

I hate that the 120V outlets don't work on battery power. Seems crazy you can't charge a cell phone.

Anyway, I would like to an an inverter. My goal would be to wire it into the system with an automatic transfer switch for shore power/battery power.

Seems awfully involved.

Is the better option adding an inverter with a dedicated female 30 amp outlet on the side of the rv near the front where the batteries are, and simply plug the shore power cable into the inverter when needed?

Seems easy enough, but not "clean". I would really rather add an inverter and transfer switch. Has anybody one that that can explain the process? Does the converter need to stay? Can it go? If the converter is removed, how do the 12V outlets and lights and water pump run? Will they run off of battery power without the converter when on shore power?

Im confused about that one aspect.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

If you are going to bother with a transfer switch, I would urge you to go "whole hog" and install a sub panel so that only those devices you wish to power on the inverter will be active.

Otherwise a simple 30 amp female plug will meet the requirements.

[2oldman]

jcarlilesiu wrote:
(converter/panel)That would be the easiest way to get at the house 120V circuit, right?

Maybe.. depends on if 'house' means 'the whole house'

I intercepted my shore cable where it enters the coach and connects to the 30a romex to the panel. That way I didn't have to go digging around in the panel.

[Huntindog]

jcarlilesiu wrote:

2oldman wrote:

jcarlilesiu wrote:
..install a Go Power! 1000W inverter in the front compartment near the batteries. I will run a 120V wire to the existing converter location and install a ATS.

Why to the converter location?

That is where my panel is located and I want to hardwire the inverter/ATS into the existing circuits.

That would be the easiest way to get at the house 120V circuit, right?

That's what I did. Don't get sidetracked into long 12 volt wire runs. I mounted my Inverter 3' from \ from the batteries and used really thick cables Over 100.00 worth. It still has a little voltage drop.

[Salvo]

Yes it is an issue. Nobody likes listening to generators while dry camping. The longer the converter to battery cable, the longer it takes the charge the battery. This is not insignificant!

Treat the converter like the inverter. Install it as close as possible to the battery.

BTW, 12 feet of 6 awg cable is not good enough. Use 2 awg.

Ron3rd wrote:

jcarlilesiu wrote:
I'm liking the idea of pulling the converter/charger and installing an inverter/charger.

What about my issue with the distance from the batteries to the converter being about 16 feet?

That's not an issue, but we sure to run the proper gauge of wire. The longer the run, the bigger the wire and the greater the $$! I've got about a 12ft run and if I recall I used 6ga.

[Ron3rd]

jcarlilesiu wrote:
I'm liking the idea of pulling the converter/charger and installing an inverter/charger.

What about my issue with the distance from the batteries to the converter being about 16 feet?

That's not an issue, but we sure to run the proper gauge of wire. The longer the run, the bigger the wire and the greater the $$! I've got about a 12ft run and if I recall I used 6ga.

[SteveAE]

Hi,

It looks like you are getting lots of advice and I would hate to confuse you, but here goes.

I suggest that you take into consideration the entire electrical system rather than piece meal it. Batteries, shore power charger (converter), solar charger, generator, inverter(s), transfer switch, and cabling (both DC & AC)...and most importantly, what you want to accomplish and how much you are willing to spend. Then create a plan (road map) of how to get there. You don't have to do it all at once, (leaving you projects for many months) but you may reduce or eliminate having to tear out any prior work by planning this way.

Regarding the transfer switch question. I also originally thought that I wanted to automatically switch from battery to shore (or generator) power and so added one. However, in reality, I am very seldom plugged into any external source of power and when I am, I know it. So when I did my last "remodel" of the electrical system, I replaced the automatic transfer switch with a simple (but not cheap) 30 amp Double Pole Double Throw (center off) toggle switch. Simple, nothing to fail, and the center off position gives the system a brief break before switching between power sources (some devices don't like having power switched off then back on, quickly).

Have fun with your "project" and Merry Christmas,
Steve

[jcarlilesiu]

Salvo wrote:
Unless you change your lifestyle while drycamping or install a substantial power plant, your batteries will only last a couple years. That may be a high price to pay just to get toast and electric brewed coffee.

How are you charging the batteries?

jcarlilesiu wrote:

Anybody see a problem with that plan?

We use a generator or shore power now, but am considering adding a solar charger.

[jcarlilesiu]

2oldman wrote:

jcarlilesiu wrote:
..install a Go Power! 1000W inverter in the front compartment near the batteries. I will run a 120V wire to the existing converter location and install a ATS.

Why to the converter location?

That is where my panel is located and I want to hardwire the inverter/ATS into the existing circuits.

That would be the easiest way to get at the house 120V circuit, right?

[2oldman]

jcarlilesiu wrote:
..install a Go Power! 1000W inverter in the front compartment near the batteries. I will run a 120V wire to the existing converter location and install a ATS.

Why to the converter location?

[Salvo]

Unless you change your lifestyle while drycamping or install a substantial power plant, your batteries will only last a couple years. That may be a high price to pay just to get toast and electric brewed coffee.

How are you charging the batteries?

jcarlilesiu wrote:

Anybody see a problem with that plan?

[time2roll]

Just be certain 1000 watts is enough to drive your coffee maker.
2000 watts can run any item but really needs the four batteries.

[BFL13]

Some of Those remotes have dim green lights when "on" you can hardly see. You can plug a receptacle night light or whatever (I use my three light tester) into a receptacle that gives a proper light as a reminder.

[jcarlilesiu]

Ok, I think I about got this licked.

So now I am thinking that I will install a Go Power! 1000W inverter in the front compartment near the batteries. I will run a 120V wire to the existing converter location and install a ATS. I also want to mount a remote inverter controller near my other switches.

Upgrade the group 27 battery to 2 or 4 6V and we should be good to go for dry camping.

Anybody see a problem with that plan?

[Veebyes]

jcarlilesiu wrote:
I'm liking the idea of pulling the converter/charger and installing an inverter/charger.

What about my issue with the distance from the batteries to the converter being about 16 feet?

I did not mess around with my system. The run from the battery bank required about 8' of feed cable but welding guage cable was used so no VD, voltage drop.

The inverter/charger is similar to this one Magnum pure sine wave . Not cheap & should not be comared to lower powered modified sine wave inverters or solar systems which are charging systems, not 120VAC producing systems.

The best inverter is useless without an adequate battery bank to power it.

[JaxDad]

jcarlilesiu wrote:
I hate that the 120V outlets don't work on battery power. Seems crazy you can't charge a cell phone.

Mine has 2 cigarette light type 12 volt sockets intended to power a TV that take an auto type cell phone charger just fine.