Advice on new RV battery maintenance.

[EMD360]

Here is the equipment in the stairs of our new RV.
The batteries are really corroded but they seem to be holding a charge. I’’d like some expert advice. Should I charge with the negative and positive on different batteries?

Besides wire brushing and checking the fluid what other maintenance would you recommend?
Should I check the solenoid and transfer switch or assume they are working correctly?

[EMD360]

Grit dog
Missed your post but yes solenoid and transfer seem to operate just fine. Batteries are performing for now. Water, cleanup and a couple of charges seemed to work wonders. For now. The acid is a bit low in a few of the cells but the indicator still floats.
I charged them together then separately. I have a good variable Vector charger that was recommended here a decade ago. It was worth the $$.

[EMD360]

Just in case anyone wonders whether their good advice is heeded. I just finished cleaning up the batteries and battery box and treated with Harbor Freight spray on undercoating. I’ll use these batteries first trip out as the seem to be taking a charge and holding it. Two 62 AH batteries are all that fit in the tiny battery box or I could go with one 100 AH. The box is 12” x 18” at its widest. My plastic box in the 2003 Itasca is larger. The paint was chipped but there was negligible rust so I just brushed it and cleaned it with baking soda water and sprayed it. Still took me several days.


Looking at lithium’s I could fit 3 80AH or 4 36AH (considerably cheaper! But would need a DC to DC charger. Won’t justify the expense for awhile. Maybe I should look at lithium capable converter/chargers first.

[wnjj]

I've used POR-15 to treat rust where my tractor battery puked all over. It's expensive too but works great and leaves a nice black color so paint isn't even needed. Years later it still looks like new.

POR-15 SDS

[EMD360]

Thanks for the recommendations for new hardware. I was beginning to think that was the best idea. That and a baking soda wash for the compartment. And the Bed liner treatment is a great hint. Sure appreciate the expertise.

[FWC]

Gdetrailer wrote:

I DID mention that, however, phosphoric acid in Ospho is "enhanced" with some other ingredients that are not present in other "rust converters".

Apologies, when you said:

Ospho and Navel Jelly are two different products with no real common ingredient that I can find in the SDS for both..

I read it to mean that they had different primary ingredients (both are primarily phosphoric acid).

[Gdetrailer]

FWC wrote:
Just an FYI, orthophospheric acid is exactly the same thing as phosphoric acid which is the main ingredient in most 'rust converters' which form an iron phosphate layer, aka 'Parkerizing'.

I DID mention that, however, phosphoric acid in Ospho is "enhanced" with some other ingredients that are not present in other "rust converters".

As I mentioned, Rust-Oleum USED to sell just plain "rust converter" all by it's self, it DID work OK.

However, that standalone version was discontinued quite a few yrs ago and they came out with a combination "rust converter/primer/paint". That combination version is not as effective, bordering on barely works and worst yet, it comes out of the can flat black already..

You don't really know if the combination version is even working..

Far better to SEE the conversion process alone, it can take 24 hrs or more depending on temps and humidity for the process to finish.. Once the rust has been converted it is a simple mater of priming and finish paints.

Keep in mind the OP mentioned using Navel jelly to convert the rust, it is not the correct product if you want the job done right the first time.

But for the OPs battery hold downs, if you don't wish to spend the money on Ospho, then by new generic hold downs and hardware and discard the old ones.



Found HERE for $14 each and you get all new hardware.

You can also get plastic hold downs if you dig around.

I would however recommend if you do buy new steel hold downs, treat them with at least two coats of Harbor Freight bedliner.. That stuff is a tough rubberized paint that should hold up well to acid fumes.

[EMD360]

The batteries came with the coach. I didn’t ask how old as I assumed I’d have to replace them. I was surprised they took a charge so well. Have had the coach plugged in since I got it so don’t know how much life they have but they started the generator while it was in storage when I bought the unit.
We have snow again today so I’m holding off on the battery job and playing with inside mods while making space for our camping stuff. There is so much more space in this RV over our 22e. It’s amazing.
I’ve been using sealed batteries in our old RV that don’t require filling.

[Gjac]

I have found that when I overfill the battery cells with water I get that kind of corrosion. Also excessive charging, like when a battery is starting to die will do the same. How old are your batteries? Load test to see if they are still good if you think they don't hold a charge well. I would just clean the tops of your batteries, the dirt/stuff on top can cause the batteries to self discharge faster, remove the rust with a wire wheel and paint the metal with black paint, rustoleum, fill cells enough to cover the plates don't overfill and see if you still get that kind of corrosion. I don't use grease or any other stuff and don't see that corrosion since I stopped overfilling my battery cells.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I purchased 20 gallons from Spectrum Chemical in Reno in 1979. It left a Batyleship Gray coating. Treated battery trays. Then sprayed zinc chromate. Finished with Body Shootz undercoating which is a bedliner.

[FWC]

Just an FYI, orthophospheric acid is exactly the same thing as phosphoric acid which is the main ingredient in most 'rust converters' which form an iron phosphate layer, aka 'Parkerizing'.

[Gdetrailer]

EMD360 wrote:
I looked up ospho and it is really expensive! Naval jelly has some of the same ingredients and I have some on hand. I’ve been busy with other projects, but thanks for all the good advice.

Ospho and Navel Jelly are two different products with no real common ingredient that I can find in the SDS for both..

OSPHO SDS

NAVEL JELLY SDS

Ospho is 45% ORTHOPHOSPHORIC ACID (this is Phosphoric acid plus several other ingredients) which IS the main ingredient that does the conversion of rust.

Rust-Oleum USED to have a similar product to Ospho, but they discontinued that product in favor of their combination all in one rust treatment/primer/paint.. It doesn't work as well as straight Opsho and rust WILL start over again under the Rust-Oleum paint.

Navel Jelly can remove rust, that isn't what you really need to TREAT the metal in order to stop and prevent further rust development under the paint.

Ospho directions HERE

"A METAL TREATMENT-NOT A PAINT
RESISTS/******* RUST-PROVIDES A SOUND BASE FOR PAINT
Directions for use
For Application Questions Not Answered Here Call Factory Direct at: 216-771-1590


OSPHO is a balanced formula of Phosphoric Acid, Dichromates, Wetting Agents and Extenders. Ospho is environmentally safe and non-flammable. OSPHO seals out moisture and prevents future rust from forming. OSPHO can be applied to just about any rusted or steel surface including: Vehicles, Trailers, Fences, Iron Railings, Sheet Metal, Outside Tanks, Lawn & Farm Equipment, Marin Applications and more. OSPHO is primarily used for bars-metal applications but can be used painted surfaces as long as the quality of the paint is not compromised. OSPHO isrecommended for use under oil based primares or paints. Test trial samples before using Epoxy or other paint systems. A paint job will last much longer afetr an application of OSPHO because subsequent paint coatings attach themselves so tightly that moisture and oxygen cannot attack the metal. OSPHO is water thin and therefor covers a larger area ten painrt and goes on easily. OSPHO is easily effective for exterior and interior work alike. OSPHO safely dissolves bleeding rust from many painted surfaces. For best results, use OSPHO at temperatures no lower than 36°. Excess dew and humidity may prolong drying time, cause a reoccurrence of the drying process resulting in a powdery buildup. Spray equipment should be flushed out with water after using. Clean brushes with water. Avoid spreading OSPHO on adjacent areas such as concrete, masonary and stone work as it will etch/bleach almost immediately.


RUSTED METALS - OSPHO is a rust-inhibiting coating - NOT A PAINT You do not have to remove tight rust. Merely remove loose paint and rust scale, dirt, oil, grease and other accumulations with a wire brush or pressure washer and let dry - apply a thin coat of OSPHO as it comes pre-diluted in the container. Let dry overnight for a minimum of 24 hours, then apply whatever paint. Longer dry times may occur depending on temperature, humidity and over-application of product. OSPHO has the consistency of water and treats up to 600 square feet per gallon. When applied to rusted surfaces, OSPHO causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black. Where rust is exceedingly heavy, two coats of OSPHO may be necessary to thoroughly penetrate and blacken the surface to be painted. A dry, powdery, grayish-white surface usually develops when cured. Brush off any loose powder and wipe down with Mineral Spirits before painting.


NEW METALS - For new ferrous metals: remove dirt, grease, or oil; apply OSPHO in a thin coat, let dry for a minimum of 24 hours, then apply paint. Longer dry times may occur depending on temperature, humidity and over-application of product. A dry, powdery, grayish-white surface usually develops when cured. Brush off any loose powder and wipe down with Mineral Spirits before painting. OSPHO penetrates deep inside of the metal's pores to convert and protect before Iron Oxide is present.


CLEANING AND ETCHING METAL - OSPHO can be used to clean and etch Ferrous and Non-Ferrous metals by simply applying a thin coat. Let stand for approximately 30 minutes or until metal is etsched, then flush off with water, avoiding damage to adjacent areas. To avoid flash rusting on Ferrous metals, a top coat system may be required.


GALVANIZED - where appearance is important, apply one coat of OSPHO, let stand for approximately thirty minutes or until metal is etched. Flush with water, avoiding damage to adjacent areas; or wipe to a smooth finish, let dry, then paint. Where appearance is not important, one coat of OSPHO is recommended to thoroughly coat and etch the metal. Let stand overnight or until completely dry. A dry, powdery, greyish-white surface usually develops when cured. Brush off any loose powder and wipe down with Mineral Spirits before painting.


WARNING - FIRST AID: OSPHO contains phosphoric acid. If liquid comes in contact with eyes or bare skin, flush with copious amounts of water. Seek medical attention if irritation persists.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. If taken internally give large quantities of milk or water, get medical attention. Prolonged exposure to skin may cause irritation - use rubber gloves or other forms of skin protection. Exposure to vapors may cause respiratory irritation, move exposed person to fresh air. Sekmedical attention if irritation persists.


SAFELY DISSOLVES BLEEDING RUST FROM MANY PAINTED SURFACES:
CAUTION: paint composition & quality vary greatly. A check should be made by testing OSPHO on a small area. Dulling or peeling may occur in some finishes. The manufacturer assumes NO LIABILITY for damage to finished surfaces."

You can also use Ospho to "etch" Galvanized metals in order to be able to get paint to stick to the galvanized metal surface..

Expensive?

Yep.

But doing it right the first time can save you money and time later down the road..

[Grit_dog]

Gdetrailer wrote:


I would go one further, replace the batteries, they look like they have been there a long, long time and the way the brackets are corroded, those batteries have been boiling for long periods of time.

I agree, someone cooked the c rap out of those batteries. The camper is a 2018 and the batteries aren't original, unless camper mfgs shop at Napa, so they can't be that old.

And to the OP, clean that ____ up! I can taste the batteries must looking at that picture!
And make sure you're charging them correctly. Those cables look like a set of jumper cables. Must be a big charger!

Don't need to "test" anything. Does the solenoid and xfer switch work or not, is about the only test.

[EMD360]

I looked up ospho and it is really expensive! Naval jelly has some of the same ingredients and I have some on hand. I’ve been busy with other projects, but thanks for all the good advice.
I’m moving the Wilson cell booster to the new Rv. Put in an extra outlet near the bedroom tv and there was a pigtail for another 12 volt device already there!

I’ve been reading about getting lithium batteries too. Looks like some extra equipment is involved. I’m not sure I want to upgrade to Progressive Dynamics. I built a trolling motor box with three liPo4 20 amp batteries. It only weighs 22 lbs! Great for carrying to the lake.

[Almot]

EMD360 wrote:
Should I charge with the negative and positive on different batteries?

To extend their life, yes. Read here why: http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html. Given that you only have 2 batteries, the benefits could be minimal.